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Thread: Turbo actuators - a question

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    elnevio's Avatar

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    Turbo actuators - a question

    Greetings knowledgeable ones!


    Whilst checking a few things out on the RVR - namely wondering why it's not been boosting very well (not even obtaining wastegate pressure!), but otherwise no boost leaks, I spotted that the actuator arm was not attached to the wastegate (I think I'm using the correct terminology!) pin.

    I managed to reattach it, but at the first sign of decent boost, it pops off now. It would seem entirely possible that the setup should have a split-pin or something to keep the actuator arm on the pin? I didn't think it was - but that's my question, from people's experience on the 4G63T (or even the 6A13TT), should there be a split-pin, or something else, preventing the actuator arm from coming off the wastegate pin?


    I attach a CAPS screen print - showing the actuator parts. The item numbered 12775 is simply called 'PIN, T/C'. Now whether that is the pin onto which the arm attaches, or is a split-pin, I don't know.

    Otherwise, has anyone got any ideas on how to keep the arm from coming off?
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  2. #2
    psbarham's Avatar

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    split pin or 'R' pin should do it, i wonder how it went walkies

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    elnevio's Avatar

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    O RLY?


    Erm - I guess I will have to have a looksee for the hole in the pin then!

    Will let you know how I get on...

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    elnevio's Avatar

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    Hole for split-pin almost not located! But just found it. Multiple skinned knuckles ensued... anyway:


    Temporary-will-probably-end-up-being-in-there-for-years fix installed - i.e. the thickest paperclip I could find that fitted! I know it's not quite cable-tying calipers on, or refilling a leaking radiator with ditch water, but we've all got to start somewhere!

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    Mark 4's Avatar

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    Sounds like a perfectly acceptable bodge to me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by elnevio
    Hole for split-pin almost not located! But just found it. Multiple skinned knuckles ensued... anyway:


    Temporary-will-probably-end-up-being-in-there-for-years fix installed - i.e. the thickest paperclip I could find that fitted! I know it's not quite cable-tying calipers on, or refilling a leaking radiator with ditch water, but we've all got to start somewhere!
    eh????
    Who on earth would do that?

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    Sounds like it will work
    If I'm replying to your thread and helping you out, it is because I like you and want to help out your VR-4 ownership. No other reason

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    i can remember a old mate saying back in the day that you can whind the actuators back for bigger boost is this correct or was he chattin' poo sorry if ive
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    Quote Originally Posted by karl r taylor
    i can remember a old mate saying back in the day that you can whind the actuators back for bigger boost is this correct or was he chattin' poo sorry if ive
    There is an adjuster

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    There are ways of playing with actuators to get more boost, but they are not particularly scientific or pretty. When you can buy a MBC so cheaply, there is no reason to risk your cars health by hacking at bits.

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    Quote Originally Posted by karl r taylor
    i can remember a old mate saying back in the day that you can whind the actuators back for bigger boost is this correct or was he chattin' poo sorry if ive
    Yeah we used to do this on my mates RS Turbo.

    Every half a turn worked out to be about 5 HP on that particular engine. Of course its a very crude method and in the end he needed to get the whole thing mapped. But for a 1.6 cvh, it broke the 200hp barrier.

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    Atik's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by elnevio
    Temporary-will-probably-end-up-being-in-there-for-years fix installed - i.e. the thickest paperclip I could find that fitted! I know it's not quite cable-tying calipers on, or refilling a leaking radiator with ditch water, but we've all got to start somewhere!
    Love it!

    And who cable-tied their calipers?
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    was it you atik?

    I drove 300miles and drag raced with one hanging on by two threads.....cable ties would have helped.

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    SGHOM for the ditch water and the cable ties!

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    to be honest the adjuster on any of our turbos is probably so rusty and locked into position that it would snap the rod before undoing. i tried to undo the actuator rod arm end on my spare set of turbos and it was imposssible to shift, and that was off the car with really good access and a vice.
    so i would not fancy you chances on the car.

    the adjster is probably in the hottest part of the engine bay right above the turbo exhaust housing, going through the same heating and cooling cycle every time you drive the car, it is no wonder it is rusted rock solid. In cold weather you will get condensation forming on there and burning off over and over againg not good.

    Bye for Now!

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    White Lightning's Avatar

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    And did it fix the boost issue, Nev?
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  17. #17
    elnevio's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by White Lightning
    And did it fix the boost issue, Nev?
    Yep, nicely operating at 1 bar again in Mild Mode!

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    Cool.

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    Quote Originally Posted by elnevio
    Yep, nicely operating at 1 bar again in Mild Mode!
    If it happens again... weld the wastegate shut... then it'll boost like a hero lol

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    Nev the old SAAB 9000s had an issue where the R pin rusted over time, due to it's location, and simply crumbled away. My fix, that lasted two years, was to use the thickest earth wire I could find, put it through the hole then wrapped it around the pin then along the arm a couple of times! I had worked on the basis that copper is pretty good when it came ot the heat
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