Why do people ignore the experience and advice on here...?
Particularly from specialists whom we trust...
Anyone can get it wrong, even Ford did in the 80's when the specified a 10w-30 for the Cossies before they realised that they couldn't enforce a quality or named 10w-30. Even the dealers used cheap bulk oil and the engines blew up! Cost Ford millions and their reputation for many years.Originally Posted by Kenan
Actually a 10w-60 cannot take more heat than a 0w-30 all things being equal (and they rarely are) The stretching of the 60 weight oil (actually its a 10 weight but I'll get into that in a little bit) which will have to have an amount of Viscosity Improvers (IV's) to achieve this huge spread of 50 will make the oil weaker. It will break down, the VI's are incredibly long molecules that uncoil when hot hence counteracting the oils natural tendency to thin with heat. With this the really 10 weight oil can resist thinning with temperature to the point when at appx 100 degrees it flows like a mono grade mineral oil of 60 weight (that has nothing in it to resist thinning). You have to think about this and in a way its back to front to what many believe to be the case.
Now these long molecules are the oils weakness, they are chopped up by the rings and broken by pressure and temperature. As the quantity of intact VI's is reduced so is the '10weight' oils ability to resist thinning and it no longer stands up, remains in the 60 braket if you like, it gets thinner when hot over time. Basically it breaks down. With this breaking down is a reduction in film strength, which will be more than the 0w-30 but a 0w-30 must be a good synthetic to get such a grade, cant be done cheaply. A 60 can!.
So actually it is totally wrong to say a 10w-60 resists heat better, its much worse; what it would be correct to say is that a 60 weight oil can give better protection and better film strength than thinner oils. This is why performance buffs go for it. BUT..... You must remember that a modern top of the line true synthetic is at least 3 times stronger than any mineral oil. So in reality you are introducing a thicker oil for its additional film strength when a good thin oil will easily cope. Whats worse is that the slow flow of the 60 weight oil will increase warm up wear, will likely cause elevated temperature because it doesn't transfer the heat as well, will cause pumping losses because its simply thicker and whilst it keeps the pressure up the reading may be false the bypass may be permanently open so the oil could be unfiltered (not good) and you could even have distructive cavitation.
So when someone builds a 'hot' engine (sic) rather than jumping onto the thicker oil bandwagon they should sort out a better / new/ larger radiator to sort out the extra heat that the burning of extra fuel requires.
Oh yes thought of other uses for the 60 weight oil, drag cars , where the blower gets fuel past the rings and into the oil , you start of thick to end up with something that when diluted will still do the job. Same with webbered racing cars from Ferraries to Holbays etc. The thicker oil allows the engine to survive when the oil is diluted with fuel. With modern ECUs this is no longer necessary.
Last edited by amsoil; 02-03-2012 at 11:45 AM.
If you have a problem with getting Amsoil just contact me on 07949 944523 email don@performanceoilsltd.co.uk or web at http://www.performanceoilsltd.co.uk/
AMSOIL 'The First in Synthetics'
Did another oilchange today and had a hard time finding the Penrite i usually use.. got myself the Valvoline 5w40 Full Synth and it seems to be pretty good. Engine is quiet as a mouse.. and its done over 200,000KMS :-D
Another thing, I noticed Partmaster has started stocking an oil brand called Royal? Anyone heard of this or used it before?
Royal Purple?
Smallish American oil company who did some good oils 10 years or so ago, didn't really move with the times and have just the one outlet left in the UK to my knowledge.
Don
AZO Series does not appear to be on sale in 5ltr containers - will it be sold in 5ltrs soon?
No it wont, Amsoil cut back the number of lines they offered in 5L a while ago, even cut the ATF which we have since had specially done in large quantity because it sold well like that. Engine oils are another kettle of fish. Car manufacturers and emission legislation continually affects the composition of an oil. To maximise sales and comply with the requirements Amsoil must react. Sometimes the changes are suffiecent to totally change a product such as TRO changing to SSO which has now changed to AZO. So if I was to get a large stock of AZO and it changed I would be stuck with 'obsolete/old' stock. (my reorder level is 1 years supply!) Whilst some people will understand that the stock was good it does make a difference to the sales especially abroad. Given it can take 3 months for me to get stock from the USA I can even receive stock that has been superseded in transit. Not good.
Now I have been brought up on the gallon and then 5L for an oil change so dearly missed the loss of this size, however I have changed my mind a bit recently. I certainly always had a litre or a half litre left in a 5l container sitting on the shelf waiting for topping up. Took up space could be mucky but that was the way I was brought up with cars. Now with the smaller bottles you only need a small bottle sittlng there, could even go in the boot as its small and maybe tougher than the 5L containers being smaller. Could even be a sealed bottle. Much better than the left overs in a 5L. What I do say is that it can be annoying having to undo and use so many small bottles and then chuck them, but then again they are much better to pour from so its a balance really.
To counter act this loss of a 5L container which historically was better value than 5 smaller bottles (actually its not nowadays but people are used to this and so things still have to be priced a bit this way) we sell 6 bottles for the price of 5 thats a considerable saving on top of that in ClubVR4 you get 15% club discount that you can add on top of the offer. Its a genuinely good deal. Such a deal is there to convince you to do things this way in the 1st place, it makes financial sense and it can actually be felt to be a better option, over time that is.
hey don, can you have a look at this 0w30 oil made by penrite, does it look any good?? its around $98 NZ for a 5l pack so its up their with Castrol edge etc... I don't like how penrite market all their oils with the extra 10 weight crap.. anyway what do you think, has anyone else used this oil?
..
http://www.penriteoil.com.au/engineo...d_products=251
Last edited by -=white-zombie=-; 12-06-2013 at 09:10 AM.
I haven't used the 0w30, but the 5w40 is OK... doesn't get as black as quick as the Castrol Edge. I've had more lifter noise when cold though.
My friend was saying that their 10 Tenths 5w30 is also really nice stuff (he used to work for Super Cheap Auto and knew the Penrite rep well).
As its not possible to make a bad 0w-30 it should be fine. The reason some oil firms muck about with the viscosity within a given bracket is to generally make their product appear better than it really is, ie thicker in thin oils to increase the shear strength and maybe lower the volatility and thinner in 40 weights to allow better fuel economy or to let the oils be classified as increasing power, which when you think of it any oil thats thinner will do. So usually a bit of a con trick or in the case of the thicker than normal 0w-30 making the product a bit cheaper /easier to make. May be oonly by small percentages but over quantity it would be significant.
Having said that its still a 0w-30 at the end of the day so it cannot bad.
cheers don,dan, im due for an oil change now, might give the 0w30 penrite a miss has anyone tried the new Castrol edge 5w30 with titanium fluid strength technology? I can get this for half the price of retail through my work..
just did an oil change today to 5w30 Castrol edge, wow what a difference compared to the 10w40 I had in there, warms up quicker (we're in winter here) and runs soo smooth and quiet now
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