Best engine Oil and technique with VR4s

[Turbo_Steve]

Dump the oil.
Refill with proper flushing solution.
Dump the flushing solution.
Refill with nice new oil.

Lifter tick shouldn't bother you for at least 2000miles, depending what oil you use.

[Wodjno]

This is th Wodjie way

Some may say it's OTT( or WTF ?? but then Hey ! It's my car i'll do what i like

Put car front up on ramps or lift front end..

remove filler cap


Start with a can of this.. Normally around £4.50.. http://www.irishautoparts.ie/media/c.../s/t/stp19.gif

replace filler cap..

Then start engine and run at around 1500rpm for approx 15 mins.. Every 5 mins i will give it a few high rev blats(4-5000rpm) on the pedal.

Turn off engine..

1......remove filler cap( Helps the flavour flowed out

remove sump plug

Dump out the oil.. (into a tray of some sorts ) Leave draining for a good 10mins. I give it a few blow jobs at 2-3 min intervals. What i mean is, with a Petrol can nozzle or something similar. Put it over the Oil Filler hole and blow. Make sure you seal around the edge with hand or rag so air pressure inside engine is maintained while blowing to force oil out.. You will be suprised how much comes out

Replace sump plug


2..... Next.. put around 2.5 litres of cheap multigrade oil into the engine.(Cost me £6 for 5 litres, i used to use flushing oil but it's £12 now /Help)

Replace filler cap

Start engine and fast idle, approx 1200rpm for 10-15 mins..

Stop engine..

Remove filler cap.

Remove Sump Plug.

Dump oil as above in 1..
Repeat Blow Job ..

Please ensure you have enough containers, or a big enough 1 to dump out all of the oil(Approx 10litres..

3... Repeat Step 2

4.. Remove Oil Filter..

Replace Oil Filter..

Replace Sump Plug..

Add New Oil..

I normally add 4 litres.. Remove car from ramps or jacks onto level grounbd and leave to settle for 10 mins..
Check oil level and top up accordingly

Warning!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You will probably have trouble noticing any oil on the dipstick, As the oil will be crystal clear after this method ... So please ensure you look carefully as if you don't you will think the oil is not showing on the dipstick and continue to overfill it /Help

As i said.. This maybe OTT for most.. but it's how i have done my oil changes for many years and will continue to do so

This Method normally takes around an Hour or so.. Sometimes longer as i'm normally off elsewhere doing stuff while the oils dripping out.. But it all just adds up to a cleaner engine


Cheers

Wodj


EDIT.. Forgot to add above.. I also give a small click on the ignition, couple of times whilst draining, just to move the internals and dislodge any oil that may be sitting anywhere.. But be careful not to start the car Can remove Can and Crank Angle sensor if u wanna make sure the car don't start.. But i don't think it's needed.. This is optional As is all of the Above ..

[Nutter_John]

tis not OTT wodj I have used the same approach many times

[Ghost_2008]

That sounds like a very good and well thought out approach....... I had my oil changed at Eurospec January last year, I have since covered 6,500 miles and changed the oil at approximately 2000 mile intervals.

Now the weather is improving I am going to change the oil and oil filter and I think I will be using the technique you detail above. I am hoping that this will clear any gunk from the sump....... we will see......

[Turbo_Steve]

Wow. I have to confess I get crystal clear just by using the £12 flushing solution, so I guess it's different (vinegar?) strokes for different folks.

Your mileage may vary.

Other brands are available.

I reckon you two just like giving your cars blow jobs.

[Wodjno]

Wow. I have to confess I get crystal clear just by using the £12 flushing solution, so I guess it's different (vinegar?) strokes for different folks.

Your mileage may vary.

Other brands are available.

I reckon you two just like giving your cars blow jobs.

I'm just a Finnicky Old Fecker

And as i said.. It may be OTT.. But it's what i does And what i'll continue doing

It would be especially a good way of doing your oil change if it's the 1st 1 and the previous oil and changes aren't known.. Especially if it's major Cruddy

[Turbo_Steve]

Yeah, it's all good, dude - wasn't meant as a criticism.

Just out of interest, Wodj, what are you putting in your car? Whilst I like the amsoil for it's ruggedness, it does seem to come with a free can of lifter-tick after a relatively low mileage.

I'm entertaining the idea of changing the lifters for a clean set and trying the Amsoil again, but I can't help thinking that if I am going to be changing it every 3000miles because of lifter tick anyway, there isn't much benefit in spending the extra.

[Wodjno]

Yeah, it's all good, dude - wasn't meant as a criticism.

Just out of interest, Wodj, what are you putting in your car? Whilst I like the amsoil for it's ruggedness, it does seem to come with a free can of lifter-tick after a relatively low mileage.

I'm entertaining the idea of changing the lifters for a clean set and trying the Amsoil again, but I can't help thinking that if I am going to be changing it every 3000miles because of lifter tick anyway, there isn't much benefit in spending the extra.

Not taken as a critism Steve..


Have used Amoil 0-30 for years now.. But as you say the lifter tick appears..
If you thrash the car within an inch of it's life then Amsoil keeps the lifter tick away.. But add in some normal pootling or long journey cruising and it will return.

Reason i came to the conclusion was that the older engine could not keep the oil pressure up with the thin oil..

I am Running Silkoline Pro-S now and the car is as quiet as a quiet thing being quiet.. It was quieter straight away but not totally lifter tick free. But over the course of 2-300 miles the ticking has gone.. Occasionally i get a tiny bit from the back left but nothing worth listening too.. The rear left lasher on all VR4's i have known has been the worsed..

Had some good reports on this oil from other VR4 owners and asked Opies recommendation, and this came up.. So thought i'd give it a try.. And i'm well happy with it

Cheers

Wodj

[Turbo_Steve]

Hmm...the same rear left that tends to run a bit hotter? (speculation!)

[OnBoost!]

I recently topped up with some magnatec 10w40 as I was getting near low. The result was terrible lifter tick. As such I did a complete change last weekend to Castrol Edge 5w30 and a new filter. No more lifter tick

Been a few weeks with Castrol now,and I'm getting real bad lifter tick,should have stuck with the 10w 30.

It's weird how each car responds to oils differently,when it's the same engine.

[wintertidenz]

The lifter tick is bad at cold with Castrol especially near changing intervals... I've been thinking about additives myself.

[OnBoost!]

I've only done about 500km since the change,might have to grab some more Proma mbl8.

[stuey]

Was using Castrol Edge 5-30 for a while and used to get the tick occasionally (even with uprated lifters)
Been using the Silkolene Pro-s for the last couple of changes and far better now..

[Firelife]

i just ordered Valvoline VR1 20W-50 racing oil for my vr4 =) I don´t know if it´s good or bad, i just hope it´s not too thick cold and makes lot of valve ticker noise.

[amsoil]

Why a racing oil? Racing oils generally sacrifice survivability (of the oil ) and longevity for superior ultimate shear strength.
20w-50 is too thick, wont do the engine any harm besides taking longer to warm up and reducing economy, making the engine run hotter will also thin the thick oil somewhat. The turbo however is another matter. The thicker oil will flow more slowly and will therefore be less efficient at removing heat from the turbo. this may actually not only risk the turbo but will shorten the life of the oil which ironically will break down to become thinner putting you to perhaps where you should have been all along but without the 'normal' additives that make the oil last.
Just my 2 p's worth

[dickytim]

my car has done approx 7,000km from it's last oil change (as per old owner) and no ticking.

I will get around to changing it soonish...

Have the oil, flush and filter just need to get the time, I use Castrol Edge 5W-30 and have for years, some cars tick, some just don't, we'll see if mine does.

[Rambaud]

Not taken as a critism Steve..


Have used Amoil 0-30 for years now.. But as you say the lifter tick appears..
If you thrash the car within an inch of it's life then Amsoil keeps the lifter tick away.. But add in some normal pootling or long journey cruising and it will return.

Reason i came to the conclusion was that the older engine could not keep the oil pressure up with the thin oil..

I am Running Silkoline Pro-S now and the car is as quiet as a quiet thing being quiet.. It was quieter straight away but not totally lifter tick free. But over the course of 2-300 miles the ticking has gone.. Occasionally i get a tiny bit from the back left but nothing worth listening too.. The rear left lasher on all VR4's i have known has been the worsed..

Had some good reports on this oil from other VR4 owners and asked Opies recommendation, and this came up.. So thought i'd give it a try.. And i'm well happy with it

Cheers

Wodj

My last oil and filter change done was ~ 3 months & 3000 miles ago with Castrol Edge 0W-30.

I printed off your oil change "recipe" and gave it to my local garage last week for an oil & filter change with Silkolene Pro-S (now Titan Pro-S). He was sceptical but intrigued about the blow job aspect. However, even he had to concede how much extra crud came out.

Fortunately, so far, the engine does not suffer from the dreaded lifter tick, and is so quiet and vibration free that it is barely audible even with the door open.

So nice one, Wodj.

[MarkSanne]

Wodjno's picture-link to the STP Engine Flush isn't working anymore, but for all it matters, the needed stuff is i.e. STP engine flush, current link is http://www.irishautoparts.ie/engine-...stp-stp19.html

[Rambaud]

I meant to add that I used Forte engine flush instead of the STP one - it was a bit more expensive at ~ £10, but I have used it several times before.

[Netrover]

I've had lifter tick for a long time, and found using PRO MA MBL8 OIL ADDITIVE solves the problem for about 4 months / 5,000km.