Standalone datalogging with Openport 2.0

[ersanalamin]

i presume the MicroSD card has to be pre formated to either FAT32 or NTFS but i don't know which. but one will probably not work.

it only a thought.

i have not tryed this yet but it is something i have been meaning to do for ages.
just to set it up to log when the knock is agove 2 counts say.

Yes Dave, the problem already solved, I rename the text file incorrect. I rename it logcfg.txt but should be save as just logcfg and send it on OP 2.0 microsd. Now it works fine. Job done he he he. Now I am ready retune kenneth 1.03 ROM on my ECU. its gonna be fun

[Davezj]

it is fun, but i realised that higher boost than about 1.0-1.1 bar only causes you problems due to knock.

now i have reduced the boost to about a bar i can run +6 to 7 deg timing above 100 load and +8 to 9 deg of timimg between 40 and 100 load. but this on LPG the super fuel of choice for me.
and i can push the AFR to about 12.5 with no knock.

i very much doubt you will be able to get near this timing advance on petrol unless you reduce the AFR down to 10. and you will be loosing power like this. also air temperature make a big difference to the knock level you get, so don't experct big results from oretuning the maps. it is a case of log data, change something, log data again, change it a bit more, log data again, and so on, it is long process.

start off be setting your boost so it is very stable in all gears. then either set the AFR to what you want to achieve and adjust the timing to get it without hitting knock or set the timing and adjust the AFR to get the result you wnat with no knock.

bare in mind though if you set the fuel and igition maps at 1.0 bar of boost and you then decide you want to up the boost to 1.2 bar you will have to retune the maps to the new boost (Load) figure.

have fun
Dave

[adaxo]

You right Dave, my car after last flash (ign ~+6 ) is noticeable faster and hardly registered any knock (count of 1-2 sometimes), just need to get my ass out and do measuring of times to compare, but it feel much better now


btw its also on LPG

[Davezj]

I think the lack of knock has a lot to do with the smooth progressive nature of the map, I tried to make the transitions as smooth as possible, and adjusted far more of the map than I ever anticipated, just so it would be smooth.
But loosing the top 3 or 4 column in the ignition and fuel maps and rescaling the axis I will be able to make it even smoother and more controllable. We just don't need load over 200 now that I have reduced the boost pressure.

Maybe when we play with the td04's, but not with standard td03.

[ersanalamin]

it is fun, but i realised that higher boost than about 1.0-1.1 bar only causes you problems due to knock.

now i have reduced the boost to about a bar i can run +6 to 7 deg timing above 100 load and +8 to 9 deg of timimg between 40 and 100 load. but this on LPG the super fuel of choice for me.
and i can push the AFR to about 12.5 with no knock.

i very much doubt you will be able to get near this timing advance on petrol unless you reduce the AFR down to 10. and you will be loosing power like this. also air temperature make a big difference to the knock level you get, so don't experct big results from oretuning the maps. it is a case of log data, change something, log data again, change it a bit more, log data again, and so on, it is long process.

start off be setting your boost so it is very stable in all gears. then either set the AFR to what you want to achieve and adjust the timing to get it without hitting knock or set the timing and adjust the AFR to get the result you wnat with no knock.

bare in mind though if you set the fuel and igition maps at 1.0 bar of boost and you then decide you want to up the boost to 1.2 bar you will have to retune the maps to the new boost (Load) figure.

have fun
Dave

My boost target is 1.5 bar with stock turbo, I am looking for 400 bhp on crank more less 350 hp on wheel. it is really push into the limit. I experienced a heavy knock and horrible boost spike with Mine's ECU ROM + boost raise up to 1.3 bar (HKS EVC5) + 92 RON Fuel.

To meet 350 hp and stable boost heres some support modification I am going to do
1. replace stock wastegate with Forge actuator FMACREN521 - Renault 5 and Renault 21 Adjustable Actuator
2. AEM WMI to fight knock
3. Sard Adjustable FPR
4. Aeromotive Fuell Pump

Well enough said, the budget is $1500 US already. I dont have enoght money right now

While waiting, I am now lowering target boost, tune the STock ECU with boost up to 1 bar and tune the HKS EVC RPM based boost. Hope I can find best base setup

[ersanalamin]

it is fun, but i realised that higher boost than about 1.0-1.1 bar only causes you problems due to knock.

now i have reduced the boost to about a bar i can run +6 to 7 deg timing above 100 load and +8 to 9 deg of timimg between 40 and 100 load. but this on LPG the super fuel of choice for me.
and i can push the AFR to about 12.5 with no knock.

i very much doubt you will be able to get near this timing advance on petrol unless you reduce the AFR down to 10. and you will be loosing power like this. also air temperature make a big difference to the knock level you get, so don't experct big results from oretuning the maps. it is a case of log data, change something, log data again, change it a bit more, log data again, and so on, it is long process.

start off be setting your boost so it is very stable in all gears. then either set the AFR to what you want to achieve and adjust the timing to get it without hitting knock or set the timing and adjust the AFR to get the result you wnat with no knock.

bare in mind though if you set the fuel and igition maps at 1.0 bar of boost and you then decide you want to up the boost to 1.2 bar you will have to retune the maps to the new boost (Load) figure.

have fun
Dave

My boost target is 1.5 bar with stock turbo, I am looking for 400 bhp on crank more less 350 hp on wheel. it is really push into the limit. I experienced a heavy knock and horrible boost spike with Mine's ECU ROM + boost raise up to 1.3 bar (HKS EVC5) + 92 RON Fuel. after all it is fun, overtaking on highway was impresive. I never thought about top speed, just focus on acceleration and knocking.

To meet 350 hp and stable boost heres some support modification I am going to do
1. replace stock wastegate with 2X Forge actuator FMACREN521 - Renault 5 and Renault 21 Adjustable Actuator spring rate blue color 1 bar (to get stable boost/fight boost spike) ($500 US)
2. AEM WMI to fight knock ($500 US)
3. Sard Adjustable FPR ($200 US small size)
4. Aeromotive Fuell Pump ($250 US)

Well enough said, the list need $1500 US already. I dont have enough money right now

While waiting, I am now lowering target boost, tune the STock ECU with boost up to 1 bar and tune the HKS EVC RPM based boost. Hope I can find the best base setup

[Davezj]

with stock fuel and ignition map, i ran 1.5bar of boost for over a year, the low down torque was brilliant and accelerating from 60-70 on the motorway in 4t or 5th was epic.
But it is not really 1.5 bar of boost though, it was more like having a resovoir of air at 1.5bar pressure and when that resovoir got used up by about 5000 rpm the turbos could not generate it again until i lifted of the throttle and reduced load on the engine. then the next time i put my foot down i had the 1.5Bar resovior back.
basically once the engine got to the rpm level when it was consuming more air than the turbos could generate at 1.5bar the pressure dropped off from about 5000rpm to about 1.0 bar at 7000rpm. i was basically running with no boost pressure getting the wastegates at all, this was the max pressure the little TD03 turbos could generate, which was way out of the efficiantcy range they were designed to run in so they got a bit hot.
but this is a side issue to my point i am going to make.
As soon as i started to play with the ingition timing the engine knocked really badly all the time, i could not increase the timing at all. you might be able to increase the timing with WMI but i am not sure bey how much.
but since reducing the boost to a solid 1.0 bar the tuning has become much easier. however on petrol i think you will struggle to tune more timing in if you are using 92 octane fuel. my car used to knock badly on stack maps with 1.0 bar of boost using 95 octane fuel and that was running AFR of about 10 to 10.5 but maybe the MWI will be the think that cures all your knock issues, lets hope so.

[ersanalamin]

with stock fuel and ignition map, i ran 1.5bar of boost for over a year, the low down torque was brilliant and accelerating from 60-70 on the motorway in 4t or 5th was epic.
But it is not really 1.5 bar of boost though, it was more like having a resovoir of air at 1.5bar pressure and when that resovoir got used up by about 5000 rpm the turbos could not generate it again until i lifted of the throttle and reduced load on the engine. then the next time i put my foot down i had the 1.5Bar resovior back.
basically once the engine got to the rpm level when it was consuming more air than the turbos could generate at 1.5bar the pressure dropped off from about 5000rpm to about 1.0 bar at 7000rpm. i was basically running with no boost pressure getting the wastegates at all, this was the max pressure the little TD03 turbos could generate, which was way out of the efficiantcy range they were designed to run in so they got a bit hot.
but this is a side issue to my point i am going to make.
As soon as i started to play with the ingition timing the engine knocked really badly all the time, i could not increase the timing at all. you might be able to increase the timing with WMI but i am not sure bey how much.
but since reducing the boost to a solid 1.0 bar the tuning has become much easier. however on petrol i think you will struggle to tune more timing in if you are using 92 octane fuel. my car used to knock badly on stack maps with 1.0 bar of boost using 95 octane fuel and that was running AFR of about 10 to 10.5 but maybe the MWI will be the think that cures all your knock issues, lets hope so.

Well yess dave, you might want to replace the stock waste gate with internal dual port actuator, spring rate 1 bar. Based on experience, most of stock turbo charged car has 0.5 bar spring rate actuator and stock turbo boost max rated at 1.5 bar. So i assume every stock turbo charged car rate the max boost up to 1.5 bar. So mechanically speaking it is actuator that must be replace to meet max 1.5 bar target boost, beyond 1.5 bar of course we have to replace the stock turbo.

Honestly I dont know what I am talking about coz I am not brave enough to set max 1.5 bar due to boost spike and knocking at 1.3 bar with 92 RON fuel. But as reference you might want to see evo X friend of mine at this link and see all the spec used. and again, google translator is your friend

http://www.bosmobil.com/performance/...an-b-8789.html

He live near my home and an engine tuning guru , he said he set the target boost 2.5 bar, RON 95 fuel and Knock happens at 1.5 bar. He Then bought AEM WMI and knock no longer his problem. with current set up he already reach 800 bhp and try to reach 1000 bhp by using fully cosworth tuned 4B11 engine.

He said to me to produce 400 bhp, max target boost 1.5 bar, i have to buy all in $1500 US list . I hate it. he's the one that propose me the list. till then I just want to play safe. Run 1 bar max boost and tune the stock ecu as possible as i can.

[Davezj]

this is the only thing i have against WMI if you run out of the mix is the car undrivable, as it will knock throughout the revrange and you will trash your engine if you do drive it without WMI.

this is ware switchable maps would be very useful. but you can worry about that once you have dialed in the tune for the WMI mix.

sounds like you are going to be having some fun when get the bits you want.

[ersanalamin]

this is the only thing i have against WMI if you run out of the mix is the car undrivable, as it will knock throughout the revrange and you will trash your engine if you do drive it without WMI.

this is ware switchable maps would be very useful. but you can worry about that once you have dialed in the tune for the WMI mix.

sounds like you are going to be having some fun when get the bits you want.

Sure dave, thats why my friend urge me to buy AEM WMI came with 5 Galon size. Mean more money to spend . I already bought 2 X forge actuator. The spring inside rate with yellow color. should buy again the blue color spring.

Switchable map is the next thing I have to explore, you damn right bud.

[Davezj]

this next startement is assuming you have no boost pressure going to the wastegate at all, they are shut under the spring pressure in the wastegate. the turbos are fee to spool to the MAX. it is not recommended to run like this, you do so at your own risk, and it is a risk of turbo and engine failure.

The stronger clamping force of the actuators will only help with holding the boost if the turbos can produce the boost in the first place.
I believe that anything over about 5500 - 6000 rpm and the little TD03 will struggle to produce any more than about 1.0 bar. the engine consumes the air faster than the Turbos can produce the pressure.
the only other thing that could be causing the Turbos to loose boost high up the rev range is the exhaust gas actually pushing the wastegate valve open by itself, and yes in this scenario a stronger clapping force spring in the wastegate would help keep the boost higher at higher rpm.

i will be interested to see the result of the increased clamping force spring in the actuator.
the other thing you could do to test if the higher spring rate actuator will help is to use an external clamp and just clap the wastegate valve shut to see if you can hold the higher boost pressure at higher RPM.
if on the off chance you find the clamped shut wastegates do not help with the boost then you will not have to spend the time and effort fitting something that you have now proved will not help.
you should be able to clamp the wastegates shut with a couple of pairs of mole grips clampped on the actator linkage or something like that.

here is a plot of my boost curve with effectively the wastegates not connected. top plot is the one to look at
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthr...l=1#post778419

it is not a good power run but it was just to show you what i would expect your boost curve to look like.

[ersanalamin]

this next startement is assuming you have no boost pressure going to the wastegate at all, they are shut under the spring pressure in the wastegate. the turbos are fee to spool to the MAX. it is not recommended to run like this, you do so at your own risk, and it is a risk of turbo and engine failure.

The stronger clamping force of the actuators will only help with holding the boost if the turbos can produce the boost in the first place.
I believe that anything over about 5500 - 6000 rpm and the little TD03 will struggle to produce any more than about 1.0 bar. the engine consumes the air faster than the Turbos can produce the pressure.
the only other thing that could be causing the Turbos to loose boost high up the rev range is the exhaust gas actually pushing the wastegate valve open by itself, and yes in this scenario a stronger clapping force spring in the wastegate would help keep the boost higher at higher rpm.

i will be interested to see the result of the increased clamping force spring in the actuator.
the other thing you could do to test if the higher spring rate actuator will help is to use an external clamp and just clap the wastegate valve shut to see if you can hold the higher boost pressure at higher RPM.
if on the off chance you find the clamped shut wastegates do not help with the boost then you will not have to spend the time and effort fitting something that you have now proved will not help.
you should be able to clamp the wastegates shut with a couple of pairs of mole grips clampped on the actator linkage or something like that.

here is a plot of my boost curve with effectively the wastegates not connected. top plot is the one to look at
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthr...l=1#post778419

it is not a good power run but it was just to show you what i would expect your boost curve to look like.

Interesting, dave. I will discuss it with my friend. and discuss it further with you as soon as everything ready to kick in. I will try to find best basic set up first this week end. Wow dude you were made me to go shopping sooner