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Thread: Four wheel alignment query...

  1. #21
    JTG's Avatar

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    Going to slightly hijack this thread if I can. Had my 4 wheel alignment done on Saturday, at quite a specialised garage. Since doing it my steering wheel is off centre, have to aim it to the right to keep it in a straight line (pulls left when I let go). I have had this after doing alignment before on other cars and put up with it, but not on this beast. I assume this is not how it's supposed to be?

    It's being checked over in the morning when I go back but I just want to be sure that this is deffinitely not acceptable so I know how anal to be.

  2. #22
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    If it pulls either way when you're not holding the steering wheel then it isn't right. The only reason I have ever had the front tracking done on previous cars is to get rid of this annoyance. Take it back and give 'em sh!t.

  3. #23
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    Yeah I have read that the steering wheel should be straight as well, is this correct? As that's a big annoyance for me.

    It had a slightly flat tyre on at the time (slow puncture), but not flat enough for it to pull like it did, although the road could have also contributed, not tested it extensively. Just wondering about the position of the steering wheel when going straight?

  4. #24
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    they prbably didnt have the tool on the steering wheel locked tight enough when they did the alignmant. the wheel may have been slightly off centre when they have made the adjustments.

    as for the camber in the rear - there are 2 ways around it if the car is lowered. the first is to follow Glys how to thread. or there is the other wasy which is putting more toe in on the rear. it fixes the camber figure slighty and if you rotate your tyres regular it will prevent them wearing the inner edge too quickly

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by JTG
    Going to slightly hijack this thread if I can. Had my 4 wheel alignment done on Saturday, at quite a specialised garage. Since doing it my steering wheel is off centre, have to aim it to the right to keep it in a straight line (pulls left when I let go). I have had this after doing alignment before on other cars and put up with it, but not on this beast. I assume this is not how it's supposed to be?

    It's being checked over in the morning when I go back but I just want to be sure that this is deffinitely not acceptable so I know how anal to be.

    I had this when i bought my car went to three cheapo wheel alignment places (I even made two of them do it twice) but it was never right.

    Until I took it to Wheels in motion (on advice from NJ & TAR) who use the Hunter alignment system and actually check the alignment of the rear wheels before doing the fronts - cheap places just use the rear alignment as the reference point for doing the fronts then call it 4 wheel alignment. Anyway turns out my rears were way out and as if by magic the car felt great

    My advice is take it somewhere with a decent rep who use the hunter hawkeye (it even has the right alignment settings if they check JDM cars against the EC5A/W chassis code).

    If you interested there website is http://www.blackboots.co.uk/wheels-alignment.php and from memory they charge £60 if buying a set of tyres and £100 seperately.

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    I've used Blackboots (aka wheels-in-motion ) for years and take it back regularly for a check up--they don't charge for this if there is nothing to be done. Top guys and they do Falkens at very competitive prices.
    Proverbs 20:29

  7. #27
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    Track rod ends and tie rods done this morning shortly followed by 4 wheel alignment.
    What a difference (mainly in noise!). No more clunks or scrapes.
    Not surprising considering the state of the tie rods and track rod ends. They'd obviously been replaced before at some point as the boots had a clip on the front and were cable-tied at the back.
    Here's a picture of one of the tie rods that came off. Gravity alone is making it the almost L shape it is! The new ones were very tight.
    Blimey, when I opened the new track rod ends it was hard to tell there was a ball joint in them. The old ones were flapping about like Dumbo's ears in a sandstorm.
    There wasn't much out on the wheel alignment but still good to have done to be sure it's set up correctly.
    Obviously the camber was and still is out of spec (lowering).
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    Last edited by apeman69; 25-05-2010 at 03:11 PM.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by apeman69
    Track rod ends and tie rods done this morning shortly followed by 4 wheel alignment.
    What a difference (mainly in noise!). No more clunks or scrapes.
    Not surprising considering the state of the tie rods and track rod ends. They'd obviously been replaced before at some point as the boots had a clip on the front and were cable-tied at the back.
    Here's a picture of one of the tie rods that came off. Gravity alone is making it the almost L shape it is! The new ones were very tight.
    Blimey, when I opened the new track rod ends it was hard to tell there was a ball joint in them. The old ones were flapping about like Dumbo's ears in a sandstorm.
    There wasn't much out on the wheel alignment but still good to have done to be sure it's set up correctly.
    Obviously the camber was and still is out of spec (lowering).
    Yep just had my tracking rods and track rod ends changed and the rods looked exactly the same, I could almost pull it apart by hand....... I only had the front tracking done afterwards and again the steering wheel is very slightly off centre, it's not pulling either way but I cant live with a wonky steering wheel......
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  9. #29
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    Then take it back. It took the dude three attempts to get mine locked on centered but now it's perfect. It's one of the preliminary checks and setup criteria before getting anywhere near the spanners and suspension. Before alignment, after changing the steering wheel from Nardi to Momo, it was easily about 10 degrees or more out.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by John TheAntique
    I've used Blackboots (aka wheels-in-motion ) for years and take it back regularly for a check up--they don't charge for this if there is nothing to be done. Top guys and they do Falkens at very competitive prices.
    Do you remember how much your four wheel allignment was there? I need to take mine there at some point.
    why fix it the right way first time - when excessive swearing can occour when it all goes wrong when you don't?

    Now with 5.7 liters of V8 muscle

  11. #31

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    I can't remember Tim (TAR ) had his done there last week. Or give them a ring. Btw I've still got a clock for you.

  12. #32
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    £79.99 +VAT if it doesn't require major adjustments.


    '97 Manual Legnum in silver with some subtle mods

    My first VR4 - '97 Legnum Dark Green & mean ...it was love at first sight - now sold

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    I recently used Stapletons STS Tyre pros in Hertford , £25 +vat per end, so about £60 for 4 wheel, previously I used Protyre in Enfield and they were also very good, similar price if I remember correctly (free for check). Tyre wear much better & handling improved.

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by John TheAntique
    Btw I've still got a clock for you.
    Oh yes - I've been trying to get to Maplins to get a part to sort out the dodgy wiring for the clock. Not been near one for weeks!

  15. #35
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    Does anyone know what is the exact value for rear caster? I know the rear caster is unadjustable, but i modified the caster adjustable. But now I ve lost orientation for original value , ha ha ha, any information would be appreciate

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by ersanalamin
    Does anyone know what is the exact value for rear caster? I know the rear caster is unadjustable, but i modified the caster adjustable. But now I ve lost orientation for original value , ha ha ha, any information would be appreciate
    Is that not on the first post?

  17. #37
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    If you mean rear camber then, yes, the range is stated in the first post: -0'30'' to -1'30''
    Caster angles only apply to the steered wheels.

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    a few facts from a alignment technician:

    #1 camber wont wear your tyres any faster than normal.
    #2 toe is the cause of tyre wear.
    #3 yes when you lower your car and you do get camber it does seem like camber has caused the tyre too wear faster than normal.. but.. when the camber adjusts (ecspecially as mush as it does when 40-50mm is taken from the ride height) the toe adjusts at the same time. and with alot of older cars the rear toe is not adjustable. but because the camber is the visable change its more than often is blamed for the tyre wear.

    a tyre will wear uneven. but should not wear faster than normal.

    height, camber, caster, toe are applicable to all 4 wheels. although all may not be adjustible at all 4 wheels.
    Last edited by ILLEGAL; 08-09-2010 at 11:10 AM.

  19. #39
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    After reading this I searched and found that a garage in Kintore just recently offers the Hunter Hawkeye system:

    Clark Motorsport
    Craigearn Business Park
    Morrison Way
    KINTORE
    Aberdeenshire
    AB51 0TH
    Tel: 01467 631261
    www.clarkmotorsport.net

    They charge £65 +VAT to measure and then £10 per adjustment.

    Good news for us in the Aberdeenshire area!

  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by apeman69
    If you mean rear camber then, yes, the range is stated in the first post: -0'30'' to -1'30''
    Caster angles only apply to the steered wheels.
    Nope i realy mean the caster, you see 6a13 and 6a13tt have slight different rear caster length. when i do the 6a13 to 6a13tt conversion, the halfcut seller unable to provide me the original 6a13tt rear caster, so I modified the 6a13 rear caster adjustable, so i need to know exactly the exact value of the 6a13tt rear caster, thats the problem

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