He's not, he's had it mapped by others
He's not, he's had it mapped by others
I'm not tuning the MAP2, I've increased the idling speed by use of my almighty screwdriver. Hence why I questioned whether the AFR reading provided by MAP-CAL would be of any use.
Originally Posted by apeman69
The Screwdriver is Mightier than the Laptop
Just to add though Alan, upping the idle, will only bring the revs up, so you will be in a different cell in the fuel table but that will be set with an afr of 14.7. All the no/low load cells are for the purpose of Mr MOT man
And Mr MOT man wasn't too happy this year... emissions close to limit, allegedly
They are a nightmare to get through, you really do need to roast them to get the cat to its light off temp. It took me an hour when i did Mats sitting on the gas analyser to get it through the retest. Mr MOT man didnt like that, but tough that will teach him for not putting it through the correct test. Its not a 6A13 engine!
If I got my cat up to temp then I'd have no interior left.
It was wrapped in a plastic bag on the back seat!
Just got home from work (7 miles each way, around town and dual carriageways). I'd forgotten how pleasurable it is to drive these cars. I'm more than pleased with the result of simply increasing the idling speed.
Also just added a fuel up on fuelly and 20.3 mpg is about what I expected from a 170 mile 80-100mph motorway run and 100 miles around town, some of which was giving the car a bit of a pasting. I even managed to get the ASC light to illuminate while accelerating out of a roundabout. Until now I didn't even know it did light up whilst driving!
Gone are the 30 mpg days of no boost and no throttle!
'97 Legnum VR-4 type S
DONE - SARD 530cc injectors, SARD AFPR, FMIC, MAP2-ECU, Ralliart air filter & 'Special' MAF, Magnecor leads, NGK 7s, Polyeurethane engine mounts, New lash adjusters, RPW downpipes, Powerflow 3" full de-cat exhaust, Reconditioned turbos, Bespoke AYC gauge, SARD R2D2 BOV, CarPC with EvoScan, Fusion amp & InPhase sub, EBC Turbo grooved & dimpled brake discs, EBC red & green pads, HKS SuperForm Lowering springs, Hydraulic bonnet dampers, Momo steering wheel, Bespoke wideband AFR/Oil pressure gauge thingy, New wiper blades all round!, Amsoiled... woo hoo!
Growling out 349ft/lb torque, 296 fly HP @ 0.9 bar
You can get 30mpg if you could get it before. Just need a better ECU.
That was driving like a grand father. I don't want 30 mpg anymoreOriginally Posted by Turbo_Steve
Might be worth a check to see if your O2 sensor is working, but yeah, thats not an unusual mileage with bigger injectors/map2.
The idle speed trick does work, as gareth says, its the transient response below 1000rpm combined with the fact that you are telling the stock ecu that the air is at the air flow meter, whereas actually its already in the plenum.
Cheers,
Ben
this is a great read.. it answers alot of my question about what i was feeling with my mapecu2 upon throttle.. once my mapecu2 has self learnt a map ill raise the idle too 1000rpms, and try that.. wish i didnt delete my old map now!
i tried alot of things! a new iidle control valve. blow off valve. fuel pump, injectors, standard ecu.. lol never thought that it was just the fact the mapecu didnt have control under 1000rpm!
so im guessing it 100% now mate?
I'm idling at about 925 when warm and in neutral and I'd say it's about 90% how I'd like it. It's a thousand times more drivable now though!
After a long run or stopping from a heavy blast the rpms drop a little lower than when idling in gear (around 700 in gear) and there can be a slight hesitation under these conditions but this could be the idle control valve which I haven't cleaned or just because of my setup with the bigger injectors. Increasing the idle speed a touch more is on my mental list of things to do whilst I decide whether to get a standalone.
Try it 'cos it does work well.
BTW Ben, my lambda sensor is working as expected, as I found out yesterday. My new wideband setup isn't functioning correctly but that's another story!