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Thread: Air-intake mushroom filter

  1. #21

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    FFS, Yes Gareth. Candee had his car on the dyno within 5 minutes with the two setups.


    Pods suck arse, just fvcking listen to us that have done testing and deal with it rather than all of this bullsh1t whinging that a few of you continue to do regarding this issue.
    If I'm replying to your thread and helping you out, it is because I like you and want to help out your VR-4 ownership. No other reason

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by John TheAntique
    I've got a Blitz sonic ( you can make it whistle ) and it doesn't seem to make any marked difference.
    How do ya make it whistle?

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by bradc
    FFS, Yes Gareth. Candee had his car on the dyno within 5 minutes with the two setups.


    Pods suck arse, just fvcking listen to us that have done testing and deal with it rather than all of this bullsh1t whinging that a few of you continue to do regarding this issue.

  4. #24
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    Brad, if you've got these results, post 'em up.

    And did you try the pod filter with a stabiliser pipe, or straight onto the MAF.


    Quote Originally Posted by brad
    Pods suck arse
    Frankly, brad, so did your last post.

    I appreciate you're frustrated, but that kind of rudeness is totally unnacceptable.

  5. #25
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    I would be interested just to see if there is an Air Intake Temp difference

    Cos think, believe it or not that it has got "Feckin Summat to do with HOT AIR"

  6. #26
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    well i had the stock snorkle 2.5" away from the mushroom but there was still a lot of area to suck hot air into maf in fact probly helped circulate the hot air better imo for what its werth
    Mitsubushi Legnum Super VR4 # 59/283

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  7. #27

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    I don't have the thread handy, but send a pm to Candee and he will dig it up for you.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by bradc
    I don't have the thread handy, but send a pm to Candee and he will dig it up for you.
    Search is your friend

    http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37871


  9. #29
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    Garreth and others!
    You wouldn't argue so much if you knew that my point of being in next RR is exactly comparison panel filter with induction filter on dyno.
    If you read threads carefully you would know, that soon mystery of performance different filters in same car will be solved.
    So, it's HKS panel filter vs. BMC CDA-150 forced induction. Hope since then we will have at least a bit scientific argument which one is better, not a Harry Hill style
    Ex: Galant VR4
    Running 268 HP ATW and 443 Nm torque at 0.9 bar
    Now: Lancer Evolution 8 FQ-300
    Running 325 HP ATW and 510 Nm torque at 1.6 bar

  10. #30
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    It's negligable. It really is. It makes a very very small difference on a dyno (because they don't work like driving on the road).


    The airflow through the front grille of the car is measured in 1000's ft/s at 10mph. The heat transfer at that rate of flow is huge - the raise in air temps under the bonnet is less than 1 degree once you're moving on most cars.

    The airflow through the filter is going to be a maximum of 800cfm unless you have some truly epic mods (Gowf spec or higher).
    So by the time you've breathed in 800cf of air, the engine bay has exchanged around 100 times that much. This means your inlet breathes hot air for around 0.5seconds...and at the point where it's not on boost yet. I've run several cars with temp sensors in the inlet tract, and the only time it all heats up is standing in traffic on a hot day. As soon as you're moving, the temps start to drop. The main culprit is the heat soaking into the pipework, and heating the air on it's way through - not the induction.

    If hot air was a problem, Racing cars would go to more effort than they do.

    To give another example, I've tried both external inlets and underbonnet pod filters for drag cars. It made no difference at all to the drag time, and only a marginal difference to the inlet temps whilst standing on the line revving the pants off it. As soon as it was moving forward, the temps hit ambient.



    Swinks - The BMC CDA is likely to be more restrictive than the factory airbox - look at the pipe sizes.
    It's not a fair test unless you try several filters.
    It's also not a particularly fair test unless you run it with the bonnet up and several VERY large fans.

  11. #31
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    Steve, not with my mods to BMC. Intake same as panel filter, output is 4.5".
    See the picture:

  12. #32
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    Well, with your mods I dunno

    But normally they are rated at 430cfm or so....which will limit peak power.

  13. #33

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    I did a run with Evoscan on the street with my pod in the car. I'll see if I can dig up the thread later on... I will also be reverting to a stock airbox soon so will also do Evoscan runs after 200km of allowing the car to settle and measure the difference.

    I suspect that the dyno figures could be skewed by pulling the air box straight off and fitting a pod... the car DOES need time to adjust the ECU to the new airflow etc, so doing an immediate swap doesn't help things.

  14. #34

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    Hi guys, i live in Adelaide Australia, and the word also over here is that you are better off with the original air box, dyno data is proof of that, disrupts air flow
    Im looking also for tho original box i have the air intake, does anyone have a spare to sell, ill pay good $$$$$$ for it.

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by wintertidenz
    I did a run with Evoscan on the street with my pod in the car. I'll see if I can dig up the thread later on... I will also be reverting to a stock airbox soon so will also do Evoscan runs after 200km of allowing the car to settle and measure the difference.

    I suspect that the dyno figures could be skewed by pulling the air box straight off and fitting a pod... the car DOES need time to adjust the ECU to the new airflow etc, so doing an immediate swap doesn't help things.
    Reset the ECU before BOTH runs?
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  16. #36

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    Nev - yes that's possible, car would run rich as hell on the dyno while it relearns though.

  17. #37
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    I would be interested to see if the air intake mod i fitted makes a difference on the dyno. Need to be able to afford the £100 or so a round trip to Guildford will cost. Can i get two dyno runs on the day for that?

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Winter
    he car DOES need time to adjust the ECU to the new airflow etc
    Actually, no it doesn't - MAF scaling is fixed: the ECU has no basis for comparison. That's actually pretty much why we have the problem - if it DID have a closed loop mechanism for MAF compensation, it would learn it's way around a pod filter.

    Quote Originally Posted by CarbonVR4
    Hi guys, i live in Adelaide Australia, and the word also over here is that you are better off with the original air box, dyno data is proof of that, disrupts air flow
    Okay, yes, we've seen that some (if not most) pod filters cause issues on the Standard ECU when bolted directly up to the MAF.
    But the debate here is whether an alternative arrangement with a pod filter will allow better flow than the factory airbox (which is a fairly compromised design).

  19. #39
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    i give up, Chinese whispers have taken over. Scientific rational has left the building....

  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlanDITD
    i give up, Chinese whispers have taken over. Scientific rational has left the building....
    You need an e

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