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Thread: Seized bolts on the lateral arm!

  1. #1
    Atik's Avatar

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    Seized bolts on the lateral arm!

    Whats the best way to sort out a seized bolt? I need to change the driver side lower straight arm (lateral arm) and cant get one of the bolts to move. Its the 22mm one and in my attempts, I am beginning to rounds the heads off! I've stopped now while the heads still have their hex shape!

    I've tried some WD40 on it and left overnight but its still not budging. I dont have a proper 22mm spanner so am using one of the adjustable wrench type deals. Should I bite the bullet and go and buy a proper sized spanner, as I'd probably never need another 22mm again! I did the passenger side one perfectly fine with the adjustable one.

    The ball joint is really creaking there now and need to complete the swap asap! Would some heat from a mini blowtorch/solder iron type thing help?
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  2. #2
    Confused's Avatar

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    Yeah, get some heat into it. A soldering iron won't do the trick, but a proper butane blowtorch (or a brûlée torch) should do.

    Get a bit of warmth into it, and get a nice 6-sided impact-style socket and a breaker bar.

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    heat

    or

    an propper impact gun will remove it but make sure you are using good quality sockets that have very little movement or you will round

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    orionn2o's Avatar

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    6 sided sockets are the way!
    '97 EVO 4 GSR

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    Oh and that was 2000 woo lol

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    Atik's Avatar

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    Sockets wont get in because there is no clearance on top of the bolt. It has to be a spanner. Guess I'll have a look at Halfrauds tonight for a 22mm something!

    Or maybe just pop into a garage and ask them to loosen one bolt for me!

  7. #7
    Nutter_John's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Atik
    Sockets wont get in because there is no clearance on top of the bolt. It has to be a spanner. Guess I'll have a look at Halfrauds tonight for a 22mm something!

    Or maybe just pop into a garage and ask them to loosen one bolt for me!
    what a load of rollox , I used a 22mm socket on one last sunday you just need to use an extention bar to be able to clear the shape of the hub

    If you aint got the correct tools then rather than buy then take it to someone else to do the work as it may be cheaper than buying proper tools

  8. #8
    Atik's Avatar

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    Cant imagine how you got the socket on it!

    Think I will probably just end up asking a local garage to sort it for me. Its getting way to cold for my liking now too! hehe

  9. #9
    Nutter_John's Avatar

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    Sorry just got me thinking you have removed the driveshaft ?
    as you can not do it with the drive shaft in place

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    orionn2o's Avatar

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    Im sure I did this whole job with sockets!!

    Which end of the arm?

  11. #11
    Atik's Avatar

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    Havent removed the driveshaft. Didnt do it on the other side either. Would that be why you can get the socket on ok?

    Matt, its the bolt at the top of the ball joint on the straight arm. I can get the subframe bolt and the suspension fork bolt out ok, but the balljoint one wont budge. I can clearly feel the balljoint needs replacing as when I move the arm, it feels very 'gritty' and not smooth.
    Last edited by Atik; 19-10-2010 at 12:59 PM.

  12. #12
    Nutter_John's Avatar

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    you also need to get a ball joint spliter in there as well , so yeah remove the driveshaft from the wheel end and then you get in with a socket .

    if you get one off with out a splitter then they were not tight enough in the first place

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    You could, depending on what your doing remove the whole arm and then try to get it off witout the driveshaft in the way..
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  14. #14
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    oh so its this bolt

    http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/attachm...0&d=1141411155

    I cant really remember this job exactly because it was years ago since i've done one but if you turn the wheels left or right, does that give you more access?

    I certainly never removed the driveshaft.

    Of course maybe I just used a spanner n dont remember! (Memory is pretty crap at times!)
    Last edited by orionn2o; 19-10-2010 at 01:28 PM.

  15. #15
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    .....

  16. #16
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    Yep thats the bolt. It doesnt really help by turning the wheels as ultimately the driveshaft is still in the way.

    Got the splitter in there too to try to help, but without the bolt removed the ball joint aint going anywhere.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Atik
    Yep thats the bolt. It doesnt really help by turning the wheels as ultimately the driveshaft is still in the way.

    Got the splitter in there too to try to help, but without the bolt removed the ball joint aint going anywhere.
    I had to cut my last 1 off, as the joint just kept spinning with the bolt. The balljoint was totally mullered though, i could wiggle it up and down with my fingers.

    As John says though.. Remove the driveshaft and get a quality Hex on the Nut and it will come undone a piece of piddle..

  18. #18
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    Try heating it as already suggested then while its still pretty hot, give it a good blast with some of that freeze type releasing spray. Usually works for me

  19. #19
    Atik's Avatar

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    Club VR4 to the rescue again. As it turns out, I just wasnt getting enough torque on the nut to undo it! Massive thanks to vr4drifta for giving me a hand getting my car sorted this evening. Through his contacts we managed to get some ramp time at a garage thats only 2 mins away from my house. Managed to sort the 'seized' bolt and have now successfully changed the arm... which incidentally didnt need to be changed! The dodgy passenger side one was changed a few weeks back.

    The actual problem was the track rod end! The rubber was actually split right across the middle and was seizing. No wonder the steering was all wonky and very skittish. Managed to get that changed this evening with little hassle too.

    Only problem now is that the tracking has gone off a little, but as I'm getting new wheels and tyres this weekend, I'll be doing a four wheel alignment.

    CVR4 articles, and club members to the rescue once again. Awesome!

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