Wheel Bearing Help

[GalantOnly]

.... had to smash the domed cover to get inside ...

Any help please

Oh no!!!!!!!!!!! You didn't!!!!!!!!
This cover is a part of hub carrier!!!
If the bolts out, just hit the anchor plate/wheel hub slightly and it will fall off. ABS ring is on the bearing itself and it must come out first

[Slimshady]

Oh no!!!!!!!!!!! You didn't!!!!!!!!
This cover is a part of hub carrier!!!
If the bolts out, just hit the anchor plate/wheel hub slightly and it will fall off. ABS ring is on the bearing itself and it must come out first

Yes I did and now seriously regretting it, the domed cover did not need to be removed as I found out the hard way, it has been totally wrecked and a new one is now on order from Japan --- OPPPS. Lots of cash for the swear box I think. Forskins Norwich told me to remove the cover, Steve said it should just pop off!!!!!.

After removing the 4 rear bolts and wrecking the rear domed cover I later found that that with a bit of brute force and ignorance the whole assembly can be pulled from the front. Bearing and shaft with the hub plate.

I used bearing extractors to remove the ABS pulley thing then re-bent the hub nut that had been pressed into the key part of the shaft to remove the nut (why did Mitsy not use a key???) I then had to use the 10 ton press to extract the bearing housing complete with most of the bearing, note I had to hang on the end of the press to remove most of it.

I use the term most because part of the inner race is still attached to the shaft and the old bearing is now in 2 parts. I tried for about 2 hours to remove the inner race with no luck so I used the angle grinder with a cutting disk to cut two slots in the old inner race left over. Tried bearing extractors and then opened them up to use in the press but part of it snapped off and now I am on phase 2.

I have managed to centre the hub on the lathe and I am now using a parting off tool to remove the inner race 3mm at a time. So far managed to remove 3 cuts, I cannot get a proper tool in because the outer part of the hub is not concentric with the shaft. WHY MITSY DO YOU DO THIS!!!

The chips are coming off red hot because the bearing is rock hard, should be 58Ra, so it is taking a lot of time to do, my machinist will be well Peed off with me when he finds I have wrecked his parting off tool.

I am taking the old inner race down to less than 100um of the original shaft size in the hope I can peel the remaining off clean it up and fit the new bearing. Not sure what Mitsy had in mind for the inner interference fit but this is ridicules, I know it should be something in the region of k5 or m5 but not “make the bearing part of the shaft fit”.

I had to abort the mission at 2 because the wife was going out and I had to look after the kids, she did take sympathy and pick me up from work, but now I only have tomorrow morning to get the car mobile again, it is blocking the primary cargo bay door and Monday morning it is needed for the forklift.

Will keep posting (if you want....... sorry this is very boring)

N
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[GalantOnly]

Keep posting... Very educating

[Slimshady]

Ok you asked for it let me try to start again where I left off:

The short version:
Sunday AM

Went to work, fixed the car, it was a see you next Tuesday of a job and I died


The long boring version:
Sunday AM

Got a lift to work and after a bit of time pondering what to try next I soon came to the conclusion that a new hub from Mitsy Monday morning could be my only option, so I thought what the hell let’s get heavy with it and stick it back in the lathe. This time no messing about, I decided to attack it from the rear (always a good option), now although I have been trained to use a lathe, I am not a machinist, so I was a little out of my comfort zone. I gently plunged the parting off tool into its rear end (hang on this is sounding dirty again, the photos explain it a bit cleaner) once again lots of molten hot chips and sparks came off, but after a mm or so clean peels emerged and with all the smoke from the coolant it was rather hard to see what I was doing. Now at this point I should have stopped and put some bicycle clips on to prepare me for what was to come. My concentration on the dial was so much, because I didn’t want to touch the shaft with the tool, I totally jumped out of my skin when an almighty bang, actually more like an explosion was heard, after e-stopping the machine I suffered a massive coronary heart attack and died on the spot.

.......................... when I got better I was overjoyed, that the inner race had jumped back about 5mm, I wound the centre back, grabbed the hub and yelled some of the foulest bad words ever, (I think I must now own the world record for the longest string of swear words used in one single sentence), It was so hot it melted my gloves and burnt me quite badly.

Yes I am a complete Muppet, but soldiering on I filled a bucket with water and used one of the wheel nuts to quickly transfer the hub into it.

After it had cooled I thought it would be rude not to try the press again so back in the press and hanging onto the bar it eventually popped out with an almightily bang bending the two 5mm thick angle iron bars, and causing my ears to ring, I picked myself off the floor and went to the inspection bay.

Next I used a mic and measured the shaft dia – 30.0345mm – slightly up but not too offensive, I decided to tickle it in the lathe again, this time with some wet and dry.

The rest was a doddle, fit new bearing to hub shaft, clean bore, remove bent domed cover, re-clean the bore, and install the whole assembly again.

Telling my story today with one of our contractors he had a similar problem on his car, after a couple of hours messing about he was advised to whack it really hard with a chisel and mallet, because the bearing is hard and brittle it cracked in half, Note this will kill the chisel end and will require re-sharpening but I only wish I had known this yesterday, could have save me a lot of time, and dying.

If you really must change a rear wheel bearing my advice is don’t, get someone else to do it.

If however you are stupid like me these are the tools you require:
The usual; most of your tool box and sometimes other peoples
An engineering workshop is always handy (make sure it has a 10 Ton press and a lathe)

On a side note can someone let me have the Mitsy Design engineers email address so I can re-educate them into press fits on bearing shafts.


I hope this document helps someone


N
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[Davezj]

you could always just buy the full hub not just the bearing bit, or use some oxy/acetylene to heat the inner race very quickly and it should pop off before transferring the heat to the inner shaft. but not a lot of people have the use of gas.

however i like a man that perseveres and triumphs over adversity, "everything is impossible until you do it".
well done!

[Slimshady]

you could always just buy the full hub not just the bearing bit, or use some oxy/acetylene to heat the inner race very quickly and it should pop off before transferring the heat to the inner shaft. but not a lot of people have the use of gas.

however i like a man that perseveres and triumphs over adversity, "everything is impossible until you do it".
well done!

Tried that on Saturday, I also tried dipping the end of the shaft in liquid nitrogen at the same time but it just hissed big time at me and I could not hold it properly, so I had no joy. I still think smashing it with a chisel could be the best option, considering the hardness and brittleness of the inner race, perhaps a combination of all of the above.

[Fully]

Hehe...don't cool it. I would of put into the press before the bucket of water =)

You don't need gas to heat bearings. You could use a heat gun that works a treat.
I use a heat lamp most of the time an hour under this is enough to expand most bearing and clamps.

[Slimshady]

Yes totally agree, on Saturday I used a blow torch to heat the inner race (not oxi torch), I then vented off the liquid nitrogen from the works large Liquid Nitrogen bottle onto the shaft holding it with welding gloves, the shaft hissed and fizzed and made cracking noises but because I had no way of holding the shaft or inner race other than the gloves I had no way to effectively clasp the inner race to remove it. And because I had no leverage under the inner race in the press it would not budge.

Bearings should be rock hard, about 58Ra and very brittle, so hitting them hard with a sharp point and big hammer could be the best solution, I did not try this so I don’t know if this is best method but it worked for a college of mine, and now I am regretting not trying this, could have saved me a couple of hours.

My advice is either:

a) Hit it with a chisel and big hammer (not tried)
b) Use a lathe and 10 ton press
c) Get someone else to do it for you

To be honest the last could be the best solution if you do not have access to an engineering workshop.

If you do use a press, I strongly advise you use ear defenders, because your ears will ring if not.

Also assess the bearing fit after removal, corrosion will pay an important part in this, the inner race needs to be an interference i.e. k5 or j5 fit but not part not of the bearing.

You have been warned

N

[tom__]

just did mine on the vr4 rear.. I agree with above... get someone else to do it.

[thfelipeth]

members area

[adamvortex]

I got someone else to do mine and he told me it takes about 5T of pressure to release the old bearing and not far the same pressure to press the new one in