Anti roll / sway bars

[Adam.Findlay]

I think the rears are swappable, the fronts aren't though, the vr one goes up and over the transfer box.

shouldnt that mean that the vr4 one should fit an st-r as they have a similar transfercase also

[Davezj]

i would have thought all the 4WD antiroll bar are interchangable just not the front 2WD to 4WD combo.

but that is just my thought on the matter.

i seem to remeber the non VR4 4wd models do have a lighter alloy subframe as opposed to the cast Steel lump that is in the VR4. I believe the light weight and cast steel subframes are interchangable though. i think it is a strength issue with the alloy subframe as to why it is not used on the VR4.

[Adam.Findlay]

i would have thought all the 4WD antiroll bar are interchangable just not the front 2WD to 4WD combo.

but that is just my thought on the matter.

i seem to remeber the non VR4 4wd models do have a lighter alloy subframe as opposed to the cast Steel lump that is in the VR4. I believe the light weight and cast steel subframes are interchangable though. i think it is a strength issue with the alloy subframe as to why it is not used on the VR4.

yip the non turbos subframes are alloy and interchangeable so i stick to my statement of the st-r being able to receive a vr4 swaybar, however i can imagine the front tug cars will have different subframes again front and rear

[Humpty's Revenge]

So if that's the case would an alloy subframe withstand a beefier anti roll bar without being reinforced?

[Adam.Findlay]

the subframe i can imagne will handle the stronger swaybar easily as it supports the entire front suspention i think the only reason they moved to the cast iron one in th vr4 is the vr4 has a rather significant power increase over the non hair-dried models (turbo) possibly having a center lsd in the vr4 puts more stress on the subframes also i am unsure but changing the sway bar would not affect an entire subframe IMHO

[Davezj]

i would imagine the only way to find out is to try it.

the same goes for the alloy subframe not being stong enough for the VR4 engine. were mitsi just being very careful or is there a real risk of failure if an alloy subframe is used with a VR4 engine.
it would nice if the alloy ones were stong enough to take the VR4 engine, as the steel sub frame weighs about 40KG and the alloy one would probably be half that.

[Adam.Findlay]

yeah the alloy subframes are much much lighter as i have lifted both by hand. i dont want to be the one who tests that subframe theory out though, dont fancy having a subframe snap on me, which is what a cast alloy one will do instead of bending like the pressed steel rear subframe

[NLduffyNL]

Hey sorry to take the dust off of this thread.

Did you every got any sway bar / anti roll bar on your vr2?


Edit:
Read in a other thread that you did order one, this one? http://www.andysautosport.com/mitsub...c00097059.html

And did it fit?

[The Vee]

Yes it is an addco bar for a 99-03 galant. But of course that is a USDM galant which I believe are the same / very similar at the back end (FWD cars). Does it fit our JDMs? Well, true to form, I've had it lying about for ages but not fitted it yet so don't know . The only thing I have a "hunch" about is that it may require slightly longer drop links, but as yet not been anywhere near it to prove or disprove that. Sorry I can't help more but I am hoping to do it this summer - yes that's 2012!

[NLduffyNL]

We'll thanks.
i might going to buy it sooner
Im pretty impatient and what does'nt fit, we make it fit!

[The Vee]

;and what does'nt fit, we make it fit!

I like that.

[MarkSanne]

The sway bar for a UK/Euro V6 8G Galant sedan is: MR272712

I entered a chassis/vin number of a USDM Galant into USDM ASA (from a 2002 V6 LS): MR369693 (also used on the USDM V6 ES and USDM 2.4L 4-cyl)
Then I tried a USDM vin number from a 2000 V6 GTZ: MR369694

So just based on comparing ASA they are not the same, but then again...

[The Vee]

Cheers Mark. I suspected there might be differences but I hope not too major. As I say think the drop links may need to be changed. But I took a chance as it looks similar! So may be a hammer and screwdriver time!!

[NLduffyNL]

We'll i'll let you know if its do-able With some pictures if it needs to be modified.
But the swaybar is going to be posted tomorrow

[NLduffyNL]

we'll ive got mine fitted today

It is good to do.
The actual only modding u need to do is make the swaybar the same lenght. i had to do about 1 inch in total. (it might have fitted without, but i wanned it the same size because else the little stab-bars might get to much asked from them.
I used a press to get the swaybar to the good lenght.

i can notice a bit of diffrence, but not that i say WOOOWWW! What a diffrence

This was pretty usefull, just to help me true
http://www.dangerdanj.com/addco_rsb_install.htm

Mine looks exactly the same when fitted. (only i got it black )

[MarkSanne]

Nice work Mark! Would've loved to hear you say that it makes a real difference, but then again, any bit better is a win for FWD cars such as our VR2's

One thing that I don't understand is your mention of making the swaybar the correct length. What about that 1 inch?! Cutting it? Did you get the 'middle' (longer) swaybar just like in the article from DangerDanj?

And what about using a press to get it to the correct length? I don't understand how a press can be used in altering a swaybar.

[NLduffyNL]

Thanks
No just the new swaybar is shorter (if u look at it from the left to the right) So i had to use a press and put it on some bend points (not the one in the middle!!) and stretch it on 2 points (left/right) After doing that the swaybar fitted without any problems

I got the swaybar on the bend-points and got a press on it to stretch the swaybar (make it less bend) We were not strong inuff to bend it by hands (bends back)

[MarkSanne]

Now I get, thanks! Great job!