1997 4-speed auto Legnum issues

[darth_grantius]

Hi guys,

I'm just new here - I bought a 2.5 v6 legnum for $500 from a friend. Very nice condition. I know this is the possibly wrong forum for this question but didn't know where else to put it.

Anyway, I noticed on the way home I couldn't get it to leave 4th gear - either by slowing down or with tiptronic. Went away after I got it home, and hasn't done it since, I think its because it was sitting without a battery for a year, and the tranny was either relearning or just sticking.

Another issue I can reproduce is that, when in drive or changing up with tiptronic the engine screams when it changes - its like it slips when changing up.
Is this a really bad issue? Or has anyone had this happen to them?

Cheers

[Gly]

it will be relearning,

but it would pay to have the auto trans flushed and filled, (the boxes are fickle, and need to be cared for)

if it continues to be a problem after more than 500km, (after a full flush, about 12-15L of SP-3 spec trans fluid)
its more than likely the trans has issues and will need to be replaced or rebuilt,

[Ryan]

Hi and welcome. By your description of the revs going nuts when you shift, sounds to me like "flaring" which from my own experience can be caused by either low transmission fluid or the... I think they're called bands, on your transmission are goosed.

Have you checked the ATF level? Also, when you do/did so, what colour is it? Brown or black is bad & indicates that it needs to be changed. It should be a nice red colour.

[Ryan]

Carsten beat me to it

[darth_grantius]

Hi everyone,

Alright, after about 1000km of driving it seems like it shudders when the torque converter locks up - sometimes its worse then others, its much better at more then 70kmh, then 50km in 4th when it locks up.

Does this change things somewhat?

Also, where abouts do I find the ATF dipstick - i cannot find it ANYWHERE.

Cheers

[andyleaves]

Hi everyone,

Alright, after about 1000km of driving it seems like it shudders when the torque converter locks up - sometimes its worse then others, its much better at more then 70kmh, then 50km in 4th when it locks up.

Does this change things somewhat?

Also, where abouts do I find the ATF dipstick - i cannot find it ANYWHERE.

Cheers

ATF dipstick is tucked below the batt and air snorkel.... as for the rest no clue mate
The ATF drain plug is at the bottom of the gear box almost right under the dip stick...

[Subaru ETA]

Sounds like it has had the wrong trans fluid in it and the trans is goosed. Try a full flush and change the filter and see what happens

[darth_grantius]

ATF dipstick is tucked below the batt and air snorkel.... as for the rest no clue mate
The ATF drain plug is at the bottom of the gear box almost right under the dip stick...

Thanks mate

[darth_grantius]

Sounds like it has had the wrong trans fluid in it and the trans is goosed. Try a full flush and change the filter and see what happens

Alright, I will. Is it hard to do myself, or is it better to have a workshop/mechanic friend do it for me?

Thanks for the help, I absolutely love the car and might get a VR4 shortly - I have a STR and it seems quite quick as it is - I can't imagine how much balls to the wall a VR4 is

[Nick Mann]

Not too hard. There is a nice write up for the VR-4 flush in the members only area, I'd guess that your ST-R will be very similar if not the same to do.

[Gly]

yep same process, just the pipes are located slightly different, not a major work out,

but if you arnt confident to run the car with the trans fuild hoses disconnected to pump old oil out,
its a $200-300ish dollar job, i would only recommend mitsi dealership workshops to do it correctly, and use correct spec fluid

a full flush wil be 10-15L of ATF,

and a sump dump and fill is 4-5l and a waste of money, (mixing good oil with old)

[darth_grantius]

Thanks Gly, I found the dipstick (was covered in old oil) - the fluid is plentiful but a dark brown, doesn't smell burnt.

I will get the fluid changed in a few weeks after payday - how much would a Mitsubishi dealer charge for the flush?


On a side note, drove to Rotorua and back on Friday from Auckland and got 10L/100KM off it - quite good, but slightly worse then my usual daily drive - get around 9.5-9.7L/100KM from it which gives I was surprised at considering that consists of going down the nor-western at 8am and 5pm. Perhaps having 5 people plus a full boot would make it worse.

Cheers

[Subaru ETA]

Dealer would charge about $350 for a flush. Might be worth getting them to chuck some shudder stop in it. People are against additives but this stuff is really good. Andrew Simms in the city stock it. Costs about $30 - $40.

My airtrek has a very slight intermittent torque converter shudder. The stop shudder has stopped it. I will still have to pull the box out but has stopped it in the interim

[darth_grantius]

Dealer would charge about $350 for a flush. Might be worth getting them to chuck some shudder stop in it. People are against additives but this stuff is really good. Andrew Simms in the city stock it. Costs about $30 - $40.

My airtrek has a very slight intermittent torque converter shudder. The stop shudder has stopped it. I will still have to pull the box out but has stopped it in the interim

Thanks mate - will let you know how it goes!

[crazydriver81]

1st - get your gearbox flushed and filled with fresh stuff soon, including ATF filter (I could recommend "Amsoil ATF" as used by myself, but in anyway the ATF should comply with Mitsi/Hyundai SP-III standard)
2nd - don't do this alone, as long as you are not 100% sure to do it correctly! Any failures will result in a dead gearbox.
3rd - disconnect the battery to let the gearbox relearn and settle

ATF should look ruby red, if it's brown it is burnt! I had the shudder myself (also V6 4WD) and after a flush with Amsoil stuff this was gone and it never returned.

If it does not help, the clutch packs will be f*cked...

[Subaru ETA]

Amsoil is very expensive and hard to get in new Zealand - you are better off just letting mitsi do it

[darth_grantius]

Update:

Got the local mechanic to flush it for me - he used the correct fluid and everything, but it still shudders. He also thinks that it needs a reconditioned torque converter.

Funny thing is, it doesn't do it when cold.

[darth_grantius]

Any ideas?

[crazydriver81]

1. What kind of fluid your mechanic has used?
2. How many km's have you done since the flush?
3. Have you disconected the battery to clear the tcu and let it relearn?

Especially issue 3 was important, as I had the shudder after the gearbox flush too, but after disconnecting the battery, this was gone.

If still there, I would guess your gearbox has a serious issue. My bet are still issues with the clutch packs. Could be that they are slipping. What's the mileage of the car?

A fail of the torque converter normally does not cause shudder before. At one stage there is a bump to the car and then your car is not able to move forward or backward anymore (the torque converter splines will be ripped off then). Had this too before I had my gearbox rebuilt.

I will have a gearbox spare (done 10k kms since rebuild), but I guess you are not willing to pay transportation from germany to NZ.

[elnevio]

If you use normal SPIII, then it will not get rid of any build up of varnishes in the box. Amsoil ATF is detergent based, and will break down deposits and build ups, rather than just leaving them there.