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Thread: "Rebuild" of Legnum

  1. #21

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    Daniel
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    Hmm, so that would mean that running a single run of 2AWG gives me a 0.62v drop to end up with 13.78v at the front of the car... but a run of 2 and 4 would give me a 0.4v drop... hopefully the fuse will hold out with cranking.

    Looks like I will need to rethink my cabling and fuse each run separately after a main fuse to avoid one possibly shorting out or getting overloaded.

  2. #22

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    Today I started on the mock-up of the hard pipe system.

    2.75" to 3" 90 degree joiner, coupled with a nice big 3" piece of 304 grade for the main intake piece - I used this piece here primarily because it doesn't need to be cut (and this stuff is a pain to cut!!!).
    From memory 304 grade is fairly resistant to heat as well, so using it in the engine bay makes sense.



    The space where the battery was will be repurposed for a pod filter, unless someone can suggest a way to make a box using a panel filter? There will be 3" ducting down to the bumper, and there is plenty of room now that the battery tray bracing has been removed, so I can put two pipes side by side easily.
    I will be running a 90 degree 4" alu or stainless pipe to the MAF to prevent any issues with airflow.





    I will need to remove the recirc pipe from the pre-turbo piping, or at least shorten it to make the extra room.

  3. #23

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    Have finally finished the intake piping on the post-intercooler side, still need to clamp it up and put in the BOV pipe plus the nipples for the PS and wastegate piping.








    Also received the casing for my DVD drive for the CarPC now waiting for the FM tuner to completely finish it.



    Have rebuilt the CarPC with Windows 7 - now takes 20 seconds max to resume from hibernation, it would be a lot quicker if I had an SSD but sadly that is out of my budget for the moment.

    Still working on a case for the CarPC to go behind the centre console - not very easy to do!


    Wasn't happy with the state of the finish on the dash, have started wet sanding with 800 grit going to 1200 - will need more paint to finish it though.

    A pillar is currently being modified and fibreglassed up for the gauges and tweeters, along with the clock as a small 128x64 LCD is going in there for song and car information.

  4. #24

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    Well, the A pillar was a fail - the resin didn't want to stick and set with our current weather, so will put the gauges somewhere else.

    The centre console was wet sanded with 800, then 1200 grit paper. Once this was done it was sprayed with undercoat, sanded back gently, and resprayed with another undercoat.

    The matt white makes it harder to see, but there are NO scratches or irregularities on the console anymore.






  5. #25
    Rixarena's Avatar

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    The projects looking good, where did you relocate the battery too?

    Sam

  6. #26

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    Battery is going in the boot, on the passengers side as my cables only reach to there. Still have to get the box and fit it though.

  7. #27

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    YAY for goodies arriving!

    Had this dropped off to me this morning:




    Thinking of fitting it possibly here:



    Or here:




    The BOV seems quite solid and well assembled, so I took it apart to check it out











    The piston is solid brass, so I think it will stand up to higher pressure. The rest is anodised.

    I'm getting the adaptor welded into a pipe sometime soon, so I will be able to start the car and check that everything is still running OK after sitting for a while.


    I also got this in the weekend:



    The battery fits snugly - if I had gotten the smaller one, I would have been stuck. I'll utilise the space down the sides to fit fuses for amps and to the front of the car.


    '96 Legnum VR-4 in Sophia White, car mods:
    600x300x76 Intercooler, genuine HKS SSQV BOV, 17" DTM Demon wheels, 3" catback RPS Evo 4-6.5 exhaust with no cat, 3" post-IC hard pipe kit, 7203 ECU
    Coming up: TD04's.

    ICE: Fully tweaked CarPC with active crossover through the PC
    JBL - SoundMagus - Vifa - Focal - JL Audio



  8. #28

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    Mike
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    Is that a Samson 50mm Blow Off Valve?

  9. #29

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    Nope - the guy I bought it off didn't say what brand it is, but it seems to be a Turbosmart clone. Scarles sell one that look exactly the same.

    The inlet is 34mm so will need to get some custom welding done on the pipe.

  10. #30

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    Went out and bought some parts for the car today, and one of my orders turned up.

    2x 2.5" 45 degree bends, 1x 2.5" to 3" 45 degree reducer, 1x 3" 90 degree bend, and a 2.5" alu pipe.




    The silicone is actually 4 ply, which will hold up quite well with much higher boost than I will be running.




    Also ordered a 0ga to 2x2/4ga fused distribution block, a AFS fuse holder (with 60a fuse) and an AGU fuse holder.

    When they turned up, I was quite pleasantly surprised to find that they actually included fuses with the holder - which was already a damn good price.




    The joiners were $20 each, which is a really really good price for them.

  11. #31
    Fully's Avatar

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    Use some hair spray when you are joining them pipes together. Dries nice and hard =)


    "The
    KOKENATOR Sent back in time to destroy all inferior tools!"


  12. #32

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    I don't have any hair spray, and neither does my girlfriend LOL.

    Anyway - got the pipes all together today, and fired the car up, but haven't taken it out on the road yet to test it out.

  13. #33

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    Haven't been able to do much on the car lately, but I was able to take it up the road with no BOV fitted... no boosting though as the boost plumbing hasn't been fitted. I won't be able to tell the difference of the piping until I can actually boost, but it did feel slightly better upon light acceleration.

    Managed to do a few more coats on the centre console piece, I think one more round of very light sanding and a light coat of paint, then clear coat x2 layers, sand back slightly and then a couple more coats and I'm done.




    Also pulled a couple of wheels off the car to clean them, I was surprised at how filthy they were.

    One cleaned vs one that has just come off the car:






    Cleaned vs polished:








    You can see how deep the colour and shine is now compared to the unwaxed wheel. I think I will do another coat of wax on the wheel as well for protection - they were never waxed when I got them, which may explain the clear coat coming off after only two years.

    Audio cabling through the car has just about been finished - I've had to take extensive measures to keep it away from any electrical wiring to prevent whine and/or interference, as it makes it slightly harder for me to tune the high frequencies correctly if there is a constant whine (yes I'm fussy!)

  14. #34

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    This is an "in progress" picture of how the audio cabling is being routed - I had to route it 90 degrees to the power cabling to put any interference out of phase to reduce noise.






    Spot the difference, dirty side of car against clean wheels on the other side (and one clean door, I was testing out the spray car wash stuff in a can):






  15. #35
    scott.mohekey's Avatar

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    I like the front bumper you're trying out!

  16. #36

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    Yeah, the polycarbonate bumper is awesome. Swallows birds, cats, dogs, and small children.

  17. #37
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    was your car pulled out of a lake? that floor is shocking!

  18. #38

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    When I got the car, I found that it was leaking... of course before I realised this, I had left it sitting in the rain for three days and ended up with 1cm of water in the passenger's side. Took me AGES to dry the bastard out.

    I had cleaned it up and put rust stop over it, but I may just take to it with a belt sander and try to get the rest of the crap off, then recoat it with rust stop paint and then a proper automotive paint.

  19. #39
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    One the second to last picture look like you had different wheels on front

    If you can, get some calcium chloride flakes put in paper bags and left in the car for few days, this suck in all moisture.
    His FL Legnum VR4 running 238.8 ATW HP and 500Nm @1.05 bar on LPG
    Hers PFL Legnum VR4 COTY see here for full story
    Looking for AMSoil? click here

    living in north west?
    would you like to meet with other VR4 fanatics?
    click here

    My recent and ex Mitsubishi's


  20. #40

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    The water was removed about two years ago, and at that time I scrubbed the bottom of the car and undersealed that side as well... I've got heaps of silica at work from the PCs we build, might nab some and fill up the passenger well with that after I remove the battery.

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