"Rebuild" of Legnum

[MarkSanne]

Keep up the good work! How could I have missed this thread all this time?!

[wintertidenz]

Thanks Mark and everyone else that have put in their words of encouragement, it makes me want to get this done even faster now

Started early this morning (8am on a Sunday! What am I thinking?!). Pulled off the other two wheels to clean up, and as you can see one of the wheels is definitely worse off than the rest:










I'm quite annoyed that the clear coat is coming off already - I'm going to have to use cutting compound to get rid of the kerb mark anyway (girlfriend SOMEHOW managed to do this!) so will see if I can get the rest of the damaged clear coat and attempt applying a new layer or two to protect the wheel.

After cleaning:






Still not happy with the one that has clear coat coming off, I think I may have to take it to get professionally refurbished, or just buy another wheel the same design, based on how much the refurb will cost.


Found that the centre console went white and slightly crackly after applying clear coat so I've sanded it down again and will do one more coat of black, then leave it as that without the clear coat.

[wintertidenz]

Right, so I just pulled out my car cleaning kit... I think I'm missing a few things to finish the car up properly though! Some things are also almost empty, so I'll need some new bottles before I start.

I do have a buffer/polisher around somewhere too...



The FW1 is what I used on the wheels, but I may use the Meguiars Quik Wax to give it one extra coat.

[lateshow]

Stop using meguiars. They're full of fillers such as silicone, you cant get lasting results. Try wiping with IPA (industrial alcohol + water mix) AFTER polishing with That scracth x you've got there I'm not familiar with the product that stands on the white box, but these days i use only products like autoglym or menzerna that use no fillers.

[wintertidenz]

I bought most of this stuff 2-3 years ago, the waxes are the main Meguiars things I use. The car is getting a cut and polish from a friend who's done his own paint jobs (and they look pro!) and I'm doing a deal to get my bumper fully resprayed too.

TBH the Scratch-X is useless for any scratches I've encountered.

[wintertidenz]

Been working on this for a while, along with my bumper... the cabling for the audio is pretty much done now, but I've also decided to tackle the rust in the passenger's side footwell as it's not the best.

New centre console gauge pod:



Still working out how to attach the gauges nicely inside the pod, but this will sit on top of the clock.

[wintertidenz]

Gauges secured into the pod and lit up:




Car out of the garage, getting ready to go for a warrant of fitness this week:






Bumper needs a bit more sanding and some paint, but it is on:




Centre console back in, but I want to use a vinyl/suede finish paint on it to hide imperfections.
Much better in black:

[wintertidenz]

Thread from the dead time!

The car has undergone a few changes since I last updated this thread... the interior is (mostly) back together, a new alarm has been fitted, and the wideband is in.

The audio side of things still need to be connected up - the CarPC is now under the seat in an old security alarm box, as it fit under the seat (barely!).

Anyway - lately, the brakes have been squealing and shuddering and sticking - the calipers had the wrong grease applied a while back, and I finally made the decision to rebuild after my friend fell through with giving me a set of calipers he no longer required. When I checked the discs, they were also at minimum - so they definitely need to be replaced.

I've got the rebuild kits for all corners, but only discs for the fronts - my rear discs won't be in stock for another 3 weeks from my parts supplier, and I don't want to pay $160 for the rear discs when I can pay $60 for the set. I'll rebuild the calipers on the rear today though, and then replace the discs later - I'd rather have good calipers pushing against stuffed discs than sticking calipers and stuffed discs.

I also ordered the front pad clips online - I was missing one on each side, and GDI ones just didn't fit... so I just bit the bullet and paid for a brand new set. They aren't cheap or easy to get a hold of in NZ - Mitsi wanted about $50 for them plus a 6 week wait from Japan - I got them within a week via Aus, and for half the price. These basically stop the pads rattling from side to side and stop the shuddering under braking.


The parts all laid out:




As you can see from the below picture, the rebuild kit is quite comprehensive, and even includes the guide pin bushing:




I removed all the parts from the front late last night, including the old discs, so there are no pictures of the parts being removed - use your imagination for that

They're currently sitting in my handy parts trays (aka old kitty litter trays - these things are GREAT!):




They will be stripped down shortly, and thoroughly cleaned. Once they are all cleaned up and put back on, I'll pull the rears off and rebuild the calipers.

More pictures to come!

[giblet]

Stop using meguiars. They're full of fillers such as silicone, you cant get lasting results. Try wiping with IPA (industrial alcohol + water mix) AFTER polishing with That scracth x you've got there I'm not familiar with the product that stands on the white box, but these days i use only products like autoglym or menzerna that use no fillers.

Sorrry to go off topic and reply to a post so old but pretty much all products contain fillers, even Autoglym and Menzerna.

[wintertidenz]

Right, so I finished with the front brakes but I ran into a couple of issues... first one was with the pistons - one on each side was stuck in there quite well. I ended up putting the other piston back in, and winding the air compressor up to 100 PSI to get the stuck ones out.

Then, at the very last piston... I managed to get a small tear in the dust boot. I rang around - and the parts places either weren't open till Monday, or didn't have them (I'm looking at YOU Repco, you useless store!)

I've fitted the dust boot with a tear as it will be replaced very soon and I needed the car up and running - it doesn't house any brake fluid, so it is fine for the moment.

Here's a picture with one fully rebuilt, and the other caliper with its pistons out - the one on the left is cleaned up a bit, the other is how it came out. There was a bit of pitting on each lock pin but nothing major, I suspect due to the wrong grease being used.




I've left the back ones till I get new discs and pads.


My tips for anyone else doing it:
1) Get an air compressor, it really makes things a LOT easier when you can just pop the pistons out and clean the cylinders with air.
2) Be VERY careful when putting the damn dust boot seal back in - it's a real pain!
3) Clean the ridges of the dust boot seal area - in my case there was a fair bit of rust preventing the seal from going in properly, and I had to disassemble the lot again to give it a really good scrub.

[lateshow]

Sorrry to go off topic and reply to a post so old but pretty much all products contain fillers, even Autoglym and Menzerna.

Yes but meguiars CONSUMER line is the mother of all filler-products. SwirlX and Scracth X and the "cleaner"..... Menzerna if used properly is nothing like that. And meguiars has now better products like #105 and #205.

[giblet]

Yes but meguiars CONSUMER line is the mother of all filler-products. SwirlX and Scracth X and the "cleaner"..... Menzerna if used properly is nothing like that. And meguiars has now better products like #105 and #205.

In some cases fillers can be a good thing, especially where the clearcoat is too thin to use agressive polish. Scratch X is designed to be used by hands, so like AutoGlym SRP the fillers come in handy. It also depends on what percentage IPA you are using for the final wipe down, having seen a 50/50 dilution IPA wipedown compared to a wipedown using some thinners the results on something as simple as Menzerna Top Inspection were mindblowing.

[Badger_01]

So hows this coming together now Dan

[wintertidenz]

LOL thread from the dead!!!

The Legnum is still a work in progress - the bodykit is sitting in the garage awaiting paint. The sound system is back in the car for the moment, all being controlled via a Wifi AP and a tablet (yes, the car has Wifi).

Seeing as you dragged up this thread, I may as well reveal my next bit of the rebuild. This will take a while, as the Galant is currently in the garage getting a crappy rust repair job sorted out.


I currently have this sitting in my garage:

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I picked it up for a very good price including stock turbos which have no play in them whatsoever, and the engine's done approx 150,000km. It looks OK internally, although it does need a bit of a cleanup inside:

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I also have two of these: (beside a standard turbo for comparison)

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And an attempt to bolt them to the standard manifolds:

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It's going to be a custom manifold job, and that oil filter neck has to go.


The two turbos are apart for a rebuild now.

This first one was sold to me as requiring a rebuild, it looked like it shat the oil seals. I actually suspect it wasn't running a restrictor, which caused the seals to leak - it was very good, with no play otherwise.

Off comes the compressor wheel, which shows a bit of crap underneath:

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You can see some coked up oil on the compressor seals:

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Seal plate out:

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The rest of the assembly apart. You can see how much oil is coked up on the turbine heat shield.

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The compressor side after a bit of a clean up.

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The entire turbo apart in its entire glory, and some of the crud that came out after a bit of a clean.

IMG_1017 (Large).JPG


The other turbo was sold as good to go, along with a dead VF10 which has ground its wheel against the compressor housing due to bearings that let go. I didn't pay much for these two together, so I wasn't concerned about this turbo, but I decided to rebuild it anyway.


Turbine wheel off:

IMG_1018 (Large).JPG

The majority of the assembly out, note the coking inside the main body. At this point I was very glad I took this apart for a rebuild.

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Bit of a better shot of the interior assembly. It's pretty coked up - but this turbo looked good externally. I suspect the previous owner of the car this turbo belonged to thrashed it a bit then didn't let it cool down.

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All apart. I'm only cleaning up a few bits on these turbos - namely the main body, the turbine and compressor wheels, and the heat shields (as the heat shields cost as much as the rebuild kits do!).

IMG_1022 (Large).JPG


The rebuild kits will be arriving before Christmas, but I won't get a chance to do anything else until then as I have a wedding to think about it.
The lifters in the front bank have been removed, cleaned and reinstalled - the back bank will be done when I have the time.

This engine will be put in sometime next year with these turbos installed, FPR and fuel pump, larger injectors, and custom downpipes. The standard ECU will be retuned. The bodykit and sound system will be finished then too, and possibly a respray... there will also be some Tanabe coilovers going in if they are OK and quite likely a brake upgrade.
Not sure if I will be going manual yet, if I find a gearbox for a decent price I will convert to manual but otherwise I'll just reinstall the auto box and see how much power it can really take

[MarkSanne]

Nice, nice nice! I'll be learning from this detailed project when I'll have time to get to my spare VR4 engine with the same TD04 plans.

[wintertidenz]

To be honest if you can get TD04s without the 90 degree inlet you will have less issues than I will - these are 13G's from a Subaru (the only good things on them are the TD04s!).

I picked these up for super cheap, the main thing I am trying is to do this properly on a budget. Most of the work will be done by me where possible.

[MarkSanne]

So something like this right?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBARU-IMP...item35cc77a4ee

td04L.JPG

[wintertidenz]

That one is a TD04HL-13T, so it will flow better than the ones I have. It'll be perfect.

[Badger_01]

Fitted the turbos yet?

[wintertidenz]

Nope, been too busy with the wedding to have the time or money to get much further.

The lifters have been cleaned however, and I've got a list of parts to order from Japan for the cambelt change.