OK then I'll list everything new in my file as untested and then and as I test them remove the untesteds
There is absolutely no advantage to using these mods on an auto. Once you get the torque converter on stall and are only just holding it back on breaks, you have loaded the engine pretty well.
The NLTS does require a clutch switch. As per my original post, this is usually standard in facelift Manual VR-4s.
I just went to pick a part and picked up a couple of brake switches which look to be exactly the same.
Originally Posted by Davezj
my fl man didnt have the clutch switch,
neither. but i dont think it will be hard to install one =s
Good thing you got one today then
Hmm, perhaps it was 2000+ or something. Both the Legnums had one (2001,2002)
They are pretty easy to install. They are the same as the brake switches.
If anyone is interested the part numbers are as follows:
MR329955 - Switch
MR311166 - Switch Harness
Yeah I reckon the 7203 ecu cars have it and the 7202's don't.
So propably the next version is better for autos too once you get the CEL on knock to work. This one's only benefit for autos is the extended ignition and fuel maps
-00 Galant Vr4 Type-V
+ Equipped with Type-S arches, genuine wind deflectors. only thing missing is the sunroof
+ Red interior with recaro front seats
+ Momo steering wheel
+ 600x300 FMIC, Custom hardpipes
+ Custom Downpipe+ Fujitsubo Legalis Super R slighlty modified/Custom catback + custom decat + Custom air intake with big K&N cone filter
+ BC Racing Coilovers
+ Advan RCII 17"x7,5 rims
+ Flexifuel /Gasoline + Ethanol E85, 850 cc injectors
+ Manual conversion with evo clutch (a standard clutch)
+ 2 x TD04-13T
+ Adam's 262 -cams
+ Xenon -projectors
+ Carbon fibre hood
+ About 450bhp/ 570Nm at the moment....with stock internals and clutch...
So it's in on mine now, works great, sounds better.
I did have a couple of issues though so you have an email Kenneth but remember you can't do anything till Monday and I along with everyone else can wait.
ppffffttt - he's out testing something on the car now - looks like I could only keep him away from it for half a day yesterday!So it's in on mine now, works great, sounds better.
I did have a couple of issues though so you have an email Kenneth but remember you can't do anything till Monday and I along with everyone else can wait.
bump for fixes
Drag him back by his ear
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Mine is 7203 and doesnt have it
cool so there was a warm up issue, will have to come get mine reflashed and the launch control sorted,
was gonna send a few $US in paypal, but just realised theres no gift option???
so ill get you some cash next time i see you
Sorry everyone, put the wrong scaling (and so the data was wrong also) on the warmup retard maps. Have corrected now.
You can correct it yourself if you you downloaded 1.01, just check the scaling on the standard ones. My advice would be to change the scaling on one, copy and past from the unchanged one and then change that. Saves any actual effort. lol.
Sorry jo....
Well I dont know then, maybe bradc knows....
Hey mate, I thought those scalings might be the culprit, glad I asked about them.... Tested again this morning and it all seemed good when cold now
But I another couple of questions, my speed output is ridiculously slow to respond so it doesn't release quick enough, currently it's set to 18kph but the speed seems to sit at 14 for a while then jump to 28, I figure I can try it at anything more than 2 to get around it, has anyone else had this issue? With LC set at 3500 and Antilag at 3250, this is what happens
RPM Speed Timing Knock
3500 0 -5 0
3500 2 15 0
2718 2 12 0
3187 14 19 0
3625 14 -5 16
4187 28 17 16
Then I backed off but the next data point had no knock and the timing stayed normal
I assume the anti lag problem above is that the antilag drops out and then comes back through the range before the speed is breached as far as the ecu knows, in which case I can deal with that as long as that is what is happening
the other thing I wanted to know was what happens on knock events, above the time the antilag comes back in is also when knock occurs but I assume thats coincidence but staying stationary I see that the timing goes from -5 to -9 and it seems to correlate with knock detection?
Last edited by Shtiv; 27-06-2011 at 04:42 AM.
To be honest, I haven't done much logging.
You could drop the switch speed. I put it to 18 to play around and make it easier to test more than anything. Ceddy had it set to 12, try that.
My understanding is that the retard limit gets set (at present values) to -10 so that in case of knock, the ECU has somewhere to go from the anti-lag retard of -5
The values I have as defaults are by no means well tested, they just made it easier for me to test.
So in essence, you should try playing around and seeing what gives the best results.
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