TRE manual gearbox upgrades.

[zentac]

I'm interested in that too, my gbox need input shaft bearing to be change asap so it could be done together with ratio changing.

So far I find this post http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=17637
and was thinking about give them a call http://www.nr-autosport.com/index.htm
and ask about rebuild my gbox

If I decide to DIY here looks like they got decent prices http://mitsubishi.epc-data.com/galan...8,18249,18252/
but I never use them b4 and don't know how reliable they are.

NR Autosport are very good at stripping boxes, they have done loads of race boxes, and their EVO won Time Attack this year.

[pezza]

This all sounds very good to me, I was initially thinking around the 450 mark so 500 not too far off. When I looked at this a few weeks back a FD of 3.5 ish seemed OK.

I too got the impression from a mate who dabbles in rear axle work for American V8s that machine setup/tooling was big bux.

[zentac]

I saw a 4.0 final drive for the evo box in a magazine the other day if anyone is interested in that, that came in about £500

[Nick Mann]

Thanks for the heads up, Richard. Not ling enough for me. Did you notice who was offering it? Maybe they would be willing to go longer...

[zentac]

www.tomiokaracing.com

4.0/4.9/5.09 final sets £399+vat

[Anderz]

I would also like a longer final drive, that is a wery good price If they only would provide a lower ratio than 4.0

[Nick Mann]

This has reared its ugly head again, mostly because I now have a broken syncro on 3rd gear. I am not sure I want to rebuild the box without doing something to lengthen the gear ratios. So I am playing with lots of options at the moment and doing some more research. I have driven a twin turbo GTO in the past, and I enjoyed the long gearing in that. I have been playing with numbers for comparison and have come up with a list of possibilities, plus the GTO (obviously not a possibility) for comparison:

ratiooptions.jpg

[Nick Mann]

I am currently liking the idea of an evo 7 gearset with the TRE final drive!
The 4.0 final drive from tomioka racing doesn't give enough of an advantage over the 4.111 stock to make it worth buying IMO.

[Davezj]

don't worry nick, you will only need 1st and 2nd to run on the sprint track at the 10th aniversary event.

[Nick Mann]

don't worry nick, you will only need 1st and 2nd to run on the sprint track at the 10th aniversary event.

You think we won't make it to 60?

[Davezj]

mine will overheat if go above 60, and the poltergeist in the cooling system will raise it ugly head again.

like it did at donninton.
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthr...t=japfest+2012
Hubble bubble toil and trouble.

[Nick Mann]

I have swapped some messages with Nigel at http://www.retro-engineering.co.uk/ and he seems to think he can sort something out - lets see if this works! They sell an uprated output shaft for our gearboxes so already have a good working knowledge of the evo 5 speed box. Fingers crossed!

[Nick Mann]

Retro engineering haven't yet come up with the goods. However, there is another deal brewing! A custom final drive ratio, but we need 10 people to climb onboard. They currently supply final drive options at US$750 shipped, so we have a chance of a good deal here. I just need more people to want to grab one!

They are on the lancer register:
http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=458849

[Kenneth]

I am interested, of course

Just one question though Nick. What did you base the 3.6 final drive on? I know you have been playing around for quite a while with this idea, so I would have thought you have so fairly well reasoned logic behind it.

My calculations tell me that, based on the standard gear set, 3.3 final drive will put me in a better RPM range over most of the gears for cruising at non-ticketing speeds

I guess it comes down to what RPM you want to cruise at?

(In NZ)
3.6 will require either 2600 ish in 3rd, or under 2000 in 4th around town, 2500 open road
3.3 2400 in 3rd around town, 2300 open road. (some 2600 in 4th in 80kph zones)

Either is an improvement on standard of course, so interested either way.

Kenneth

[Kenneth]

Also, are you able to confirm the exact ratios available? My understanding is that the tooth profiles and therefore full tooth count to maintain correct diameter relationship may limit the ratios available. So for example, 3.68 might be as close to 3.6 as they can get without re-tooling.

[SEAN-NZ]

I am interested, of course

Just one question though Nick. What did you base the 3.6 final drive on? I know you have been playing around for quite a while with this idea, so I would have thought you have so fairly well reasoned logic behind it.

My calculations tell me that, based on the standard gear set, 3.3 final drive will put me in a better RPM range over most of the gears for cruising at non-ticketing speeds

I guess it comes down to what RPM you want to cruise at?

(In NZ)
3.6 will require either 2600 ish in 3rd, or under 2000 in 4th around town, 2500 open road
3.3 2400 in 3rd around town, 2300 open road. (some 2600 in 4th in 80kph zones)

Either is an improvement on standard of course, so interested either way.

Kenneth

i assume your open road is 100k zone, and round town is 50k?

[Kenneth]

Nope, 109 and 59... I said non-ticketing speed, not legal speed

i assume your open road is 100k zone, and round town is 50k?

[Nick Mann]

Slightly different speed limits I guess. Round town here is 30mph, although we have speed limits at 10mph intervals up to 70. 3.6 final drive gives near identical speeds in gear to the auto, plus means that at 30mph you are at 2050rpm in 3rd and at 40mph 2000rpm in 4th. 5th sees 60mph at 2200rpm and 70mph at 2600. Even the unofficial cruising speed of 85mph on the motorway is done at less than 3150rpm, whereas it is 3600rpm stock.

With the 3.3 ratio, 30mph is either 1880rpm in 3rd or 2800rpm in 2nd. 40mph is 1840rpm in 4th or 2500rpm in 3rd. If people would rather go for a longer gear then I would still much rather have the 3.3 than the 4.11!

My other consideration is simply that the higher the gearing, the lower the torque at the wheels. If we make the gears too high then the in gear acceleration will drop significantly. Having said that, the 3.6 or the 3.3 final drive would potentially stop me using 5th on track days, which I do sometimes need at the moment.

Cost has been confirmed at US$750 including free shipping. That includes UK and NZ. All we need now is an agreement on ratio and 10 orders!

[Kenneth]

I am more than happy with 3.6

Are you able to confirm that 3.6 is the exact ratio?

[Nick Mann]

Not yet - I have posed the question, but they have not yet replied.

Can you find 8 more buyers?