what have you got in mind for handling? and will that rear diff last with the 6a13tt or do you have something in mind for that to?
what have you got in mind for handling? and will that rear diff last with the 6a13tt or do you have something in mind for that to?
I doubt the rear diff will last - I'm considering using the 200SX diff I've got, and making up my own rear axle. Whether it'll be another "live axle", a De-Dion axle or full IRS, I really don't know yet.
The propshaft will just stay bolted up to the current rear axle until the rest of it's done, and I'll just drive it sensibly until I change it.
I've got Mk2 Escort front end, which will be polybushed and will have adjustable castor due to the way we're sorting the front ARB mounts, and rear suspension as noted above not yet decided on.
And the best bit when it's all done, you can go to multiple different car shows, Ford, classic, and Japanese! Makes me want to fit a turbo lump into my Westfield
why fix it the right way first time - when excessive swearing can occour when it all goes wrong when you don't?
Now with 5.7 liters of V8 muscle
love projects like these.i would love to see a launch with that rear axel lol
good work fair play
Great project !!
Makes my MK2 Golf 1.8T transplant look straight forward.
Things have come a long way since I put an MG Midget engine in an Austin A35
Upon my travels of the internet I found this - I know it's old, but the old ones are often the funniest!
I left you last time with a marriage of an engine and a gearbox mated together - which even I wasn't sure would have worked until we managed it!
The next issue to tackle was that of actually starting the car. Our adapter plates were taken back to our local engineer with some more rough scribbles, and they were returned with some new holes.
A minor tweak, and the starter bolted up to the engine, and in line with the flywheel - and then, for the moment of truth... would it work?
Success! Next, to get the starter fitted to the gearbox. A small bit of cutting later...
As you can hopefully see, the starter is rather close to the crossmember - and the gearbox is currently lifted higher than it will usually sit - which means that the starter will be trying to sit in the crossmember, so some modifications are required.
So, we cut away a section, and reinforced where we'd removed, as well as reinforcing where we'd cut away the original engine mounts, as we'd not be needing them.
The eagle-eyed among you may have noticed a couple of blocks of wood between the front crossmember and the sump of the engine in the final picture of my last update - this is what was supporting the engine in the right position. I don't think that would have been a long-term solution, so a proper engine mount is required.
Upon my browsing of forums as I usually do of an evening, I happened upon someone selling a brand new engine mount from a Honda Integra DC2 - which looked like it might fit the bill. I promptly purchased it, and work began on making it fit. A large chunk of the original engine mount was removed, and a wonderful looking mounting bracket was created.
In order to support this, we'd need some quite hefty bracing, so the remainder of the bodywork was removed, and some additional box section was grafted into place.
The engine was then lifted back into position, and the front engine mount was affixed securely to a beefy bit of box section, and the engine suspended from it, and the gearbox crossmember.
With the front and rear mounts sorted, something was needed to stop the roll of the engine. Using the mount from the Honda Integra gave me another idea. I often see Hondas with "engine torque dampers" to reduce the engine movement from their huge torque outputs *snigger* - these are small units which don't take up much room... perfect for this case.
So, a couple were purchased, and mounts made to prevent the roll on the engine.
There we are - that should damp more torque than the 2 Hondas they were no doubt previously destined for!
And finally - another treat, a video which is "out of order" of the text above, but I couldn't leave this update without putting it in!
All of the win!!
awesome job Gary and Gary's dad , keep up the updates very very interesting
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Just Wow - Anglia cool - Escort cooler - 6a13TT coolest
We work to live, and to live is to drive a VR-4, around corners at speed. But it costs see here
Great stuff. Keep up the good work
SOOOOO exciting to view and read!
This looks really good mate. My first swap was on a Ford Corsair many years ago when I put an Essex V6 in it and thought what an achievement! That was a walk in the park compared to what you are doing. Good luck with this - will be following it all the way. Just one observation, I wonder if you may need a little more than the dampers to stop engine rock?
The torque dampers are actually just glorified rubber mounts. I too thought originally that they may be some kind of fluid damper.
The piston inside has a circular disc on the end, and either side of that is a thick rubber disc, of similar type of rubber to that of a standard engine mount.
I'll have to pop the starter motor back on now it's fully supported and get another video to show the movement on the engine, and then can compare it to the previous video when it was supported just front and back.
Fair play, sounds like you've researched it well. Keep the progress reports coming..........
Awesome!
But now i have no excuse anymore for not putting a 6A13TT into one of my 1978 Mitsubishi Sapporo's.
I thought it about time some control was brought to this project!
So, first off, how about some engine control, with the beginning of some of the multitude of wiring? I'm stripping out wiring for any systems that were present on the Galant, and won't be on the Anglia.
So, that means removing: ABS, ASC, AYC, SRS, TCL and Automatic Gearbox ECU.
After starting with the engine and ECU looms, and re-routing, we're currently set up as such:
Before going too much further with the wiring under the dash, a small amount of adjustment is required to fit the water manifold to the back of the engine. Firstly we had to trim down the top of the gearbox casing.
And in order to run the coolant hoses to the front, a small amount from the bulkhead.
Next on the agenda is some way of telling the car where to go, so... one Mitsubishi steering column and wheel
With the ability to steer, I think the ability to move and stop might be the next logical step.
Before:
After:
The clutch/brake pedals are an old set of dual controls which were removed from another car, and the accelerator is from the 200SX.
Now that the steering and pedals are done, the bit of floor that had been hacked about to previously fit the Escort steering column was then replaced with a nice fresh bit of steel.
Finished for Christmas??
Great progress
I'm an idol, so my reply is: "more, more, more!".
Good work/progress there mate... At this rate it wont be a very "long term" project..