Good work garry nice and clean work
Great progress again Garry!
So, I've concluded that I suck at taking photos and keeping this updated!
I've had a couple of trips to my dad's since the last update, and have failed to take any photos!
The first trip involved removing the engine/gearbox, and sorting out a couple of small oil leaks, which came from the lack of gaskets on the turbo oil return pipes. Whilst the engine was out, a new sump pan was also fitted, to replace the corroded one that was on there.
A little more tidying was done of fuel/vacuum pipes coming through the bulkhead, these now are plugged in on either side of the bulkhead to a small length of copper pipe which is soldered to the bulkhead. Quick to remove the pipes from inside or outside, and a water-tight way to get through the bulkhead.
Also, whilst the engine was out, the area we had cut away from the bulkhead to facilitate the water manifold and radiator hoses was looked at and mostly replaced, and we now have just a small removable panel to make and fit.
The second trip was more eventful, as we decided to take a day off from working on the car, to go and show it off at the annual Anglias At The Ace meet, organised by 105speed. The Friday evening was spent tidying up to make it somewhat "presentable" - it had a wipe down with a damp sponge and dried off with a towel, the passenger seat was re-fitted, the remaining cables under the dash were tidied with a few cable ties, and I even screwed in the glove box lid and ashtray/heater control panel!
Saturday morning, we loaded up onto the trailer, and headed off for the Ace Cafe, my dad towing my Anglia, and me driving his, and arrived to a mostly empty car park, being about the 8th Anglia to arrive. We unloaded the trailer, and parked up, and awaited the rest of the arrivals.
The day didn't disappoint, with 54 Anglias all together, and I had a great opportunity to speak to many people about the car.
And our two cars, including my dad posing with his cup of coffee!
On our way back, we had a radiator blow out on the Shogun, which left us stranded at the side of the A406 for over 8 hours awaiting a truck to be provided that could recover the Shogun + trailer back home! So, that was quite a bad end to an otherwise great day!
I hope that normal service will resume next update, and I'll try to take some more photos!
you updating your thread reminds me Ive been meaning to post some pics of my workmates mk1 cortina project, thought you may be intrested as its also old Ford with new Japanese power.
Its destined to be a drag car.
2 door Mk1 cortina
fully tubbed rear end with toyota hilux beam axle with 4 link
NZDRA spec roll cage
silvia S13 front knuckles and lower arms as well as Silvia adjustable coil overs in the front
flipped and modified escort steering rack to suit the silvia front suspension bits
Toyota 1UZ-FE engine. forged pistons, forged conrods. race ported heads, race cams. and as per the photo a Custom intake plenum (although the top is not on it yet
Big holset HX50 twin scroll turbo.
Powerglide 3spd auto
10270329_10152553805228659_8765265668638900223_n.jpg
10300695_10152553805268659_5000520613080468854_n.jpg
Its still got alot of work to be done before its going as you can see by it not having any inner guards or firewall yet but its coming along nicely.
There's not much of the original car left!
It's looking like it'll be quite a beast, though!
Nice YZF in the background.Originally Posted by Adam.Findlay
Awesome Garry!!
The first task tackled this time was to cover the pedals & master cylinders, to both make it water-tight, as well as add some strength back to the bulkhead where a little metal had been removed.
Therefore, a box was made up, with a removable lid to aid access, which covers this area. The clutch pipe was also re-routed inside the car, along with the brake pipes, moving it from its previous route which went down the bulkhead right next to the exhaust.
Next up was to fit a new set of front shocks & springs, which are now fully adjustable for ride height and damping rate.
When lowering the steering rack to allow the engine to fit in place, the steering geometry was modified from standard, by lowering the rack, "bump steer" was introduced - this is where the wheel as it moves up/down, also rotates as though it is being steered.
In order to overcome the bump steer that was introduced by the need to move the steering rack, it was necessary to move the mounting of the track rod end downwards, to match the downwards move of the steering rack.
This is accomplished by use of a long high tensile suspension bolt, suitable spacers, a rose joint and a length of hexagonal bar, with the correct threads tapped.
Moving underneath the car, the remaining chassis outrigger/jacking point was replaced - not with capabilities for the standard jack, but instead utilising some box section, which will give a perfect location for a more commonly available scissor jack, like is found with more modern cars.
Additionally, the rear end of the driver's side sills were finished, which mostly concludes the remaining structural welding that was required underneath.
Great progress there Garry, nice job covering the pedals and master cylinders. Always good to see this project progress and its always an interesting read with the level of detail and pics you include. I always take something away from your posts.
Keep up the good work, both on the car and the posts
Another update from Garry & his dad, YAY!, that will always bring a smile and some interesting reading. No exception this time
Great news everyone! The Dacia Sandero won't be on the Ford Anglia 105E Owners Club stand in hall 18 at the Lancaster Insurance Classic Motor Show at the NEC on 14-16th November!
But, my car will be!!
A few weeks ago I took a call from the club's events organisers, looking for a modified vehicle to show off on the stand, and have asked me to take mine.
So, amongst other things that need doing, we have been tidying up some things to get it into a transportable and "presentable" state.
This involves such tasks as...
Fitting of a new windscreen rubber:
Some quick & unpolished grinding back of rough welds, filling of holes in the doors, and temporary rust protection of exposed metal with zinc primer:
Making up a bracket to hold the coolant expansion tank (and more zinc primer):
Fitting of the front bumper, and number plate:
Fitting a gear lever gaiter:
So, it's basically ready to be driven onto the trailer, unloaded and parked up on the stand. So, if you're visiting the show, come along to hall 18 and take a look in person!
Last edited by Confused; 05-11-2014 at 07:10 PM.
Wow.
Proverbs 20:29
*like*
Freakin' wonderful!!
His FL Legnum VR4 running 238.8 ATW HP and 500Nm @1.05 bar on LPG
Hers PFL Legnum VR4 COTY see here for full story
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My recent and ex Mitsubishi's
That's a bit bonkers!
First off, I know it's been a few months since any updates - I've not fallen off the face of the planet! The weekends have just fallen quite badly - with the likes of Christmas and other events meaning that time spent on the car has been reduced.
Some of this time has been spent in re-wiring the engine (again) - this time, using quick-release connectors, which will be located in a much better place than they currently are. The current connectors are all tucked down between the engine and the bulkhead, and have prevented us from making up the panel to seal off the bulkhead again.
These are the connectors I'm now using - have worked out (after buying them) that 2x 20 pin connectors is enough to do all of the engine wiring (but no harm in having some extras)
It had always been a plan of mine to have fully independent suspension on the back of the car, because it allows the greatest amount of adjustment, which will be critical to get the handling just how I want it.
However, my dad didn't initially want to go fully independent, and so we came to an agreement on the De-Dion setup. The plan then was to drive it around for a while, and then redesign the suspension later.
However, he has since changed his mind, and come round to my way of thinking, so we've now started to replace the De-Dion with fully independent - whilst still maintaining the majority of the work on the suspension we've already done.
So, the plan is to replace the large, solid tube between the two hubs, and the panhard bar, with more links - we will need upper and lower, to prevent the wheels from folding in on themselves, or falling outwards (like the DeLorean from Back To The Future Part II). There will be 3 of these on either side - 1 top, 2 bottom, which will also allow for a control of toe.
The existing twin trailing arms will remain, and these will prevent the wheels from moving forwards/backwards, as well as preventing any rotational force applied by braking or acceleration.
The following diagram should hopefully explain this better, and this will be the basis of our design. (Red is the existing trailing arms, green will be the new arms we need to make)
Found on the SusProg3D site.
The first step is to add a frame around the diff, which will form the inner mounts of the suspension arms.
With the basic positioning sorted with it on the car, and the parts tacked together, we then removed the current axle, and put it all onto the bench for fully welding up all the parts for the frame that becomes part of the diff carrier.
Whilst it was still bolted to the car, we tacked on the lower brackets for the wheel end of the suspension arms - these will be fully welded on when we are perfectly happy with their position.
Putting it all together on the bench, we position the existing axle with the modified diff carrier, and begin to make up the suspension arms.
By doing it this way - until we are happy with the positioning, we don't have to cut through the De-Dion tube, so we could potentially bolt it back up to the car without affecting the current suspension setup! This is one of the reasons we prototype in the way we do - functional, usable, but not necessarily completed immediately - whilst yes, it took us some time to make the De-Dion axle, it allowed us to get it rolling under its own power, gave us the ability to position the diff, exhausts, trailing arms etc and build around them, but still give us the option to change things later - or, if we're happy with what we prototyped, we will go back to it and finish it off to a high standard.
that is fab fab gary.
i love it when people just say bugger it i am going build something i want to build. if i need a spare part i will make it. if i need a tool to do something i will make it.
love it, love it, love it.
Bye for Now!
The next task is to make up the suspension arms - 3 per side. 2 for the bottom, 1 for the top.
As with the trailing arms, these consist of a length of steel tube, threaded inserts, locking nuts, and rose joints. One rose joint is right hand threaded, the other is left hand threaded, and this allows fine adjustment of the length of the arm, without needing to remove anything from the car. Simply loosen the locking nuts, and rotate the tube to lengthen, or shorten, the arm as necessary.
This gives the ability to fully adjust every aspect of the suspension - the toe (whether the front of the wheels point inwards or outwards, and by how much), the camber (how far from vertical the wheels are), and the position within the arches.
We started by making the arms to the correct size needed to put the wheels in the same position as they are with the De-Dion. When looking at it on the car, I'd decided that the wheels were too close to each other, and ideally needed to fill the arches more - so basing the arm lengths on getting it as it current is, will allow adjustment outwards to where necessary (there's about 5cm of length adjustment on each arm, whilst still maintaining a suitable amount of thread within the insert - which gives up to 10cm overall width adjustment on each side... plenty, as it only needed to come out by about 2cm each side to really fill the arches)
So, we made up the lower arms on the bench:
To get the correct length and position for the upper arms (avoiding the exhaust), we then began to transfer stuff to the car, firstly re-fitting the diff and carrier.
The next bit I forgot to photograph, so I'll try to explain what we did. We reattached the existing De-Dion axle, including the new lower arms, made up the top arms to length, and then removed it, and chopped the hubs off from each end of the De-Dion tube. This then gave us the hub units separately - our first step towards making them independent.
We needed to give a slight tweak to the exhaust pipes to give us clearance for the top arm - we could have curved it under the exhaust, but as the legendary Colin Chapman allegedly would have said, they then would have been "pre-failed". But, we've got enough capacity in the exhaust to be able to sacrifice a small amount of volume!
So, with the welded (and labelled) suspension arms:
We began to attach each hub unit. First the two trailing arms:
Then the remaining arms (as you can see, I was extremely useful here, and took it upon myself to take photos, rather than help hold the weight of the hub!)
The rubber boots for the rose joints actually ended up causing us the most hassle - we'd used 25mm box section, which the bare joints slotted into perfectly. With the addition of the rubber boots, they just wouldn't fit right. So, we decided to use them slightly differently to how they are supposed to be used, and instead cut the end off them, and stretched them over the box section and over the nuts/bolts - just as water/dust tight, and much easier to fit!
So, with both sides attached, this is how it looks with full droop:
So, much, engineering, skills! Wauw!
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Legnum VR-4 Type S Project
