Castrol oil for V6 Galant?

[Humpty's Revenge]

Halfrauds are doing a cheap deal on castrol oil, so will this do a v6 sport please? 5-40 or 0-30 fully synthetic?

I know Amsoil is the dogs but keeping cost down at the mo! I will be using an Amsoil filter though which I think is the same as a vr4 yes?

Cheers.........

[imapetrolhead]

hell 5 40 and 0 30 is like water, i always use 10 40 sometimes 15 40, i hate the thin stuff cant be good for it

[Humpty's Revenge]

hell 5 40 and 0 30 is like water, i always use 10 40 sometimes 15 40, i hate the thin stuff cant be good for it

That's very true but I take it you have never owned a vr4?

0w 30 is the usual grade for that car & apart from a few difference's the N/A V6 should be able to take the same? I'm pretty sure I've read 5w 40 but just needed a member in the no to clarify that?

[sonicsoundzdj]

iv used castrol 5/40 in my v6 for a while steve, had no problems at all. also thanks for the heads up on the deal, was gonna do an oil change at some point over the next few days

[adamvortex]

stick with what mitsubishi say, 10 40 or 15 40. super thin oils are great if your running a rally or track car which is on & off with high revs. not for an everyday running car

[Rambaud]

When they had a similar deal around July last years, I went for the Castrol 0W-30 and it was fine.

Changed to Fuchs Titan 5W-30 in October 2010, after full engine flush (as per Club thread). Even garage surprised at the extra crud that came out.

Changed to Motul 8100 Ecolite 0W-20 in May 2011.

Tappets still silent - hopefully it will continue like that.

[amsoil]

"stick with what mitsubishi say, 10 40 or 15 40. super thin oils are great if your running a rally or track car which is on & off with high revs. not for an everyday running car"

Sorry but you are wrong about this.
You need to understand that high quality thin full synthetic oil is superior in every way to 'normal' oil. It flows better. lasts longer. and is tougher than (higher film strength) normal oil and so gives better protection.
Especially at this time of year with winter upon us you will also get easier starting, quicker warm ups better economy etc etc.
Consider that American large capacity engines now run 0w-20 or 5w-20 as standard.
Things have moved on.

[Rambaud]

stick with what mitsubishi say, 10 40 or 15 40. super thin oils are great if your running a rally or track car which is on & off with high revs. not for an everyday running car

I agree with Don. And I don't think I would use a "40" oil for track daysing either.

"It is time to dispel the notion that 0W-30 oil is too thin when our [Ferrari] manual calls for 10W-30. A 0W-30 is always the better choice, always. The 0W-30 is not thinner. It is the same thickness as the 10W-30 at operating temperatures. The difference is when you turn your engine off for the night. Both oils thicken over the evening and night. They both had a thickness, a viscosity of 10 when you got home and turned your engine off. That was the perfect thickness for engine operation." From an article by Dr. A E Haas.

Link to full article (very long) :

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq...=haas_articles

[Humpty's Revenge]

"stick with what mitsubishi say, 10 40 or 15 40. super thin oils are great if your running a rally or track car which is on & off with high revs. not for an everyday running car"

Sorry but you are wrong about this.
You need to understand that high quality thin full synthetic oil is superior in every way to 'normal' oil. It flows better. lasts longer. and is tougher than (higher film strength) normal oil and so gives better protection.
Especially at this time of year with winter upon us you will also get easier starting, quicker warm ups better economy etc etc.
Consider that American large capacity engines now run 0w-20 or 5w-20 as standard.
Things have moved on.

So what you recommend Don please?

[adamvortex]

what about high mileage engines? when the oil scraper ring on the piston wears,thinner oil escapes through more than a thicker oil resulting in oil burn. This is information i was told when i was at ralliart wrc team,our chief engine engineer from japan (fuji san) explained what happens on newish & older engines.
After all the years of his experience with mitsubishi engines & the fact that he was a major part in the 3.0 gto,2.5 vr4 & 2.0 evo engine devlopment i will stick to what mitsubishi say (imo),after all they spend millions on engine devlopment & dont forget mitsubishi have got an oil company too so they know what grade oil is best for there engines.

[Rambaud]

I saw no difference in oil consumption when I changed from a 10W-40 (put in by the Mitsi garage) to Amsoil 0W-30 - my 2.4 GDI had over 140,000 miles on the clock.

However, cold starting, fuel consumption, and engine smoothness did improve.

[amsoil]

What The Japanese Ralliart engineer said is of course correct but needs to be understood in context. The best oil for these cars is of course 0w-30 for many reasons others have mentioned also to be considered is the quality, you cannot get a 'cheap' 0w-30 it must also be synthetic to be 0w-30. Oil being burnt because it gets past the rings (or for that matter the valve seals) is a valid point but usually occurs when a weak oil breaks in usage into a lighter part, which easily gets past the rings, and a thicker part, which is what forms the sludge. A top oil which has stability and doesn't break in this way doesn't suffer like this. With the full specs of an oil you can start to unravel all of these things (which most people don't know, realise or want / need to know) perhaps why most oil companies don't give you the full specs of their wonder products!
Now do you think Mitzi or any other manufacturer would not save £5 or £10 on the oil in each car if they could 'get away with it'? Some firms only give you 3 wheel nuts!
WRC is / was very different. With engines as disposable items some teams worked out how much advance and boost you could cram in which ate away pistons and heads but allowed the engine to survive (just) to the end of a rally or stage! All this extra power and heat requires dissipation. But there are restrictions and weight considerations, in the search of lower times all must be sacrificed; a thicker oil can be used which will be thinned by the additional heat, surely better than the extra weight etc and its effect on times that using the 'correct' oil would have. And on these dusty trails if the engine scratches a bore or even breaks a ring then the thicker (and I trust fully synthetic) oil will prop up this time limited and dying engine.
In a normal car, even a VR4 std or ralliart on the road..... na. 0w-30 all the way. Amsoil Motul Castrol, cant find a cheap one? have a think about why that is.

[amsoil]

At the Algarve historic 2 weeks ago I used 30 weight in my V12 jag engine for qualifying. I got the 3rd highest speed down hte main straight behind a works Merc and works Nissan, many people looked in wonder at my car and engine because of this but the 30 weight was by then in the waste tub having been replaced by 50 weight for the race ahead. In the USA they use 20 for quali and 30 for race; I am not so brave and its also my car and my engine that I built!

[WOODY72]

Where did you finish Don?

[amsoil]

Where did you finish Don?

At the end of the main straight with holes in the rear bodywork when a rear tyre let go at 180. Split second decision and all anchors locked to bring me to a 3 wheel stop and save totally wrecking the rear body work. Cost the other tyres but think it was a good decision. An interesting but short ride which I am told was most spectacular. I havent however found any pics never mind vids of it on the net.
Today I was told that a missing piece of my rear bodywork actually finished 1st,
stuck in the radiator ducting of the works Mercedes!

[WOODY72]

Whoops, blow out at 180, incidentally what tyres do you run on? Good save, not crashing though.

[amsoil]

Dunlop WSC slicks, 18 x 360 rear and 17 x 310 front, Easy if you are willing to kill the tyres, you lock up you go straight , the steering at the end was a bit more difficult.

[amsoil]

When they had a similar deal around July last years, I went for the Castrol 0W-30 and it was fine.

Changed to Fuchs Titan 5W-30 in October 2010, after full engine flush (as per Club thread). Even garage surprised at the extra crud that came out.

Changed to Motul 8100 Ecolite 0W-20 in May 2011.

Tappets still silent - hopefully it will continue like that.

Not all oils are the same, the crud coming out indicates the oil has broken (so does the need to top up, unless you have a leak of course) Makes you think about buying a better oil the next time. Top of the range Motul is a good choice.

[Rambaud]

Don, glad to see you are still in one piece.

Must have been a long few seconds.

Fuchs Titan is rebranded from Silkolene Pro S.

[amsoil]

So how do I put a pic on here nowday from 'my docs'?