All diffs confirmation

[Kryton]

Hi everyone, I know there are loads of threads on here but I'm just tying to confirm as many details as possible before I buy something of no use. As far as I can see the following is accurate but could someone confirm what's worth doing please:

Rear diff:
Evo 4 onwards fit
They are all stronger & smaller, able to trasfer power easier
Evo 7 onwards is an upgrade
Evo 8 onwards gains sayc so the one to go for
4-6 fits straight in
7 onwards fits with spacers
10 fits but need to swap shafts
Sayc - noticeable improvements on handling

Transfer box
4 onwards all direct fit
Any advantage

Front diff
4 onwards fit
7 onwards needs modifying to fit
Helps eliminate understeer

I have spent ages searching through threads & this is what I have put together. Some threads are just theories & others are years old so really want to try & clear some of this up.

I think rear diff, everyone now agrees evo 8 onwards s-ayc fits with a spacer, nothing else needs changing but modifications may need to be done to make servicing easier.

Transfer box i believe is a confirmed fit for 4 onwards, auto & manual are the same, but is there any pint in changing?

Front is confirmed in a post that an evo 6 is a fit & in theory all 4-9 are interchangeable but has anyone fitted any others?

Does fitting say an evo 8 sayc & 6 front diff cause any problems

Sorry for all the questions but unless I've missed something (possible as on phone) but could cone in handy for others if all in one place
Any

[Gowf]

Ok, you're 1/2way there.....

There is a big difference between GSR and RS front and rear diffs. The front diff is inside the transfer box, and so an RS box will give you a plated front diff.

As for the rear, RS diffs are stronger and again are plated so you can get rid of the AYC. If you are rich enough to buy a Ralliart one then they also have 2 extra plates in them.

Advantages......... Turn the car into a something that drives true, i.e no aid from electronic nonsense. It does mean that you have to drive it though rather than point squirt and hope. It will also give you much better traction on lose surfaces.

Disadvantages..... They are a servicable item and so the diff needs checking periodically and the plates changing as required.


Also...... just to add, the track of the Evo's changes throughout the evolution. All of which are not the same as the VR4, so you have to carefully select your driveshafts. The RS diff also isnt a direct bolt in, but itsnt too far from it as long as youve got some flat bar and a welder.

[Kryton]

Goodpoint, I can't believe I forgot about the rs. I even had a grp n evo rs I thinks is because it's the GSR ones I'm looking at but best cover it here for everyone else. Cheers for the info

[Gowf]

haha, Yeah. All I have to add to the matter is this.... Once I changed to RS, I would never ever again have AYC! I know its expensive, but worth every penny

[Kryton]

Yeah I did love the difference & no comparison as was like being on rails but as I'm sticking with the auto box in the galoon as I am now a lazy sod, I want improvement but don't think it's worth spending that much more for rs bits for mine. Just want to improve it as much as I can without going silly

[Wodjno]

Also the Flange needs changing over from the VR4 diff to the EVO diff.

Sent from my HTC Wildfire using Tapatalk

[Kryton]

Oh yeah, I saw that it the rear diff fitment guide. Would this be the case for the front one aswell then?

[CANDEE]

You can fit an evo rs diff cartridge into a type v/str/viento 24 rear diff and use the driveshafts from those cars to go take the AYC out. Also only the evo 4-6 transfer cases are a bolt in jobbie