Intermittent spark related problem - need your help

[apeman69]

Plug leads changed today.
Before this I noticed that the vac pipe that I changed when doing the plugs had split again. This pipe was connecting my boost gauge pressure sensor to the back of the inlet via a t-piece. When I touched the pipe to remove it the thing ripped apart.
So, in summary, the leaky vac pipe was changed then the car ran well for about a week. Then it started to display the original unpredictable fault again so I parked it up until I had some time. Then I found that the replaced pipe had also split. I removed the t-piece for the boost gauge and connected the original factory hose back to the inlet manifold. Car drove well straight away as it has later today after changing the leads (and putting the original coils back on). Plugs, leads, fuel filter all needed doing but I'm drawn toward the damaged vac pipe as being the main cause of my woes. I'll watch things for the next week or so to be sure.

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[apeman69]

ASA say that in my car coil is MD323928 old and replaced by MD363547 may you can try this numbers

I've lost ASA since changing my PC setup (forgot to reinstall it).
It'd be interesting to find out what this MD363548 is off and maybe have a look at that coil. I'm lost with Russian and that was all I could find on my phone.

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[adaxo]

Did you try here ?? http://mitsubishi.epc-data.com/diama...0,15593,15598/
is say its for Diamente??

[apeman69]

Just been searching and found a couple of references to Diamantes. I'll keep looking, just out of interest.

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[apeman69]

Googling the part number (md363548) results in an image that looks exactly like the coil I have here. Hmmm... which car is it off and I wonder if anyone other than Dave and myself have any of these on their cars.

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[Davezj]

glad to here you are getting someware with your issue alan.

my cahssis number says
MD323928 old

MD363547 replacement for above.

so it the same as adams and he has a facelift so it looks they are supposed to be the same nomatter what model you have. so we have both had the worng coil pack fitted at some point.

is the Diamantes a USDM model if so then it could just be a US version of the galant 2.0L 4 cylinder or something like that.
google images show a car that looks a bit like a carisma

[adaxo]

I always thought, even see few times in the flesh, that Diamente is US version of Sigma, granddad of Galant available in Europe.

Back on topic, I find out that one pipe split as well on my car last week, it was exactly the same pipe as Alans but at the boost gauge end, shorten a bit just to get rid of split and reconnect to gauge , I never thought that could sort out my (and others interested in this thread) issue and the funniest thing is that I didn't drive my car a lot since and I'm not sure if this is sort out yet, but I will try to arrange the same conditions when fault usually occur ASAP and report back.

[apeman69]

BTW rocker cover bolts were very loose... not just a bit but a couple of turns on some. If you've got access to these at any point then check while you're there.

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[Davezj]

Rocker cover bolt should not make any difference apart from a possible oil leak.
It is alway worth checking rocker cover bolts tightness if you have a bit of an oil leak from the joint. These can work loss due the heating and cooling cycle of the metal parts.
The specified torque for theses bolts is quite low and relies on the rubber washer bit compression to maintain the tension and the bolt inevitably work loose. I alway over tighten these bolt to ensure I don't get rocker cover leaks.

[apeman69]

Rocker cover bolt should not make any difference apart from a possible oil leak.

I know Dave. I'm just agreeing with you and others that they will work loose. May as well check whilst the engine's in bits

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[Nick Mann]

Careful with those rocker cover bolts. You can overtighten them with a socket on a screwdriver!
What kind of piping is splitting? I'm guessing silicon but it would be nice to know.
It's good to see similar problems being solved with similar solutions. It gives everyone involved a sense of security that you are on the right lines.

[adaxo]

Nick, in my case pipe was supplied with gauge and its not silicon type, its more like plastic with very thin walls. I go for a proper drive now to see if my (similar to Alan/Derek) problem gone.

[wintertidenz]

You will find that the piping is just standard fish tank stuff - I looked at it when I put my gauge in, kept it aside for my fish tanks, and got some rubber piping.

[apeman69]

Mine was, firstly, silicone which lasted a few years above the rear turbo. The second, which lasted a week / 50 miles, was silicon type cheap rubbish I thought would have lasted long enough for me to find some decent stuff in my bits and pieces.
Both hoses, on reflection, had an internal diameter that was maybe 1-3mm too small and thus stressing the pipe at the inlet manifold connection. On to a loser from the start with this!

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[jjayokocha]

My car is a facelift & on ASA with my chassis no i get the same part numbers as Dave - MD323928 with underneath it in red writing MD363547

Had a quick look for you and that part number keeps showing up everywhere for a Mitsi Diamante 3.0 V6, heres a bit of info for you.

http://hooniverse.com/2011/02/16/hoo...iamante-wagon/

[apeman69]

I go for a proper drive now to see if my (similar to Alan/Derek) problem gone.

Any news, Ad, or are you struggling to find fuel as I am? Tried 3 petrol stations last night and only 1 had (crappy 95RON) fuel so I didn't bother. I haven't got enough fuel to go the 7 miles to my usual Shell for V-Power so it's looking like a trip in the diseasel with my petrol can in a day or two before I can continue the checks myself

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[adaxo]

He he, I went for quick drive and problem not come back BUT I cant say is sorted, it was just quick ride around the block and definitely to short to be sure, on the good side my car is on axle stands since that last ride (clutch job) so no need any petrol and hopefully that all panic petrol buying crap not affect me as much as you guys.

[pezza]

Good progress in the space of a few days... Fingers crossed that the vac line split will resolve your running problems..

[apeman69]

Car was great for a day after fixing the vac leak.
Same fault is still there though it's nowhere near as bad or frequent.
No warning lights at all now and it's just a slight blip in power and lean AFR.
I've swapped 1 coil which had a different resistance to the other 2.
I noticed that 1 loom plug to a coil can be moved with force (is not clipping in place properly) so I jammed it in place by using the loom from the adjoining coil. Since this the fault has been it's least troublesome. It seems that fitting the incorrect coil (see previous posts) has damaged the connector.
It's getting more complicated by the day but I'm hoping that securing the elec plug to the coil and the coil I've changed will have solved it. Time will tell and if I can get past a week without fault then I may have cracked it.
There is no doubt in my mind that the vac leak has clouded and dramatically contributed to my problem.

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[Davezj]

good wprk there alan.
havbe a look at the other coil pack i sent down just in case it is the coil pack side of the connection that is at fault. i seem to remember the hook bit of the clip is on the coil pack not the loom side, so that might have broken off the coil pack. i can't say i noticed it when i tested them before i sent then down to you, but one of the coils could have had a dodgy hook on it. if it has just swap it over for one of the other coil pack that has a strong click in place sound. they should have an audable click when the connector is pushed on.