Shudder!!!

[Nik77]

Hey all... its my first time posting so wooo my cherry has been popped!

I have just got my Legnum VR-4 and what a car! love it although the fuel bill my wife has had kittens about!
Anyway, i have a two problem which are related i think. Over the weekend the Traction control light came on and the engine management warning light . After switching the car off then on the lights would dissapear. Then up they came again. On the second lighting i noticed the car shudder when accelerating in 4th or 5th from 2000 RPM. Do you think this is related?

Look forward to your informed pearls of wisdom.
Oh one other thing has anyone managed to use the CU5600 SAT NAV thingy in the UK?

Yours

Nik77

[haydar]

Read the following link.

http://www.clubvr4.co.uk/forum/showt...t=transmission

[Nik77]

Thanks for that. I did find that discussion after i posted! typical..

But any help on the Sat Nav thing would be great!

[haydar]

Sorry don't know much about the SAT Nav, but from all the discussions I've come across relating to it, no one seems to have got it to work. It seems that most people just dump it in favour for a convensional stereo or an after market SAT Nav device.

[Nik77]

I still get the TCL and Engine management lights come up when driving. After the car has warmed up and you switch off then on the lights no longer come on.

Is this serious?

Thanks

[haydar]

Are there any other symptons? Does the car lose power? Does it start to run rough?

Do some of the basic checks such as oil level, coolant level, gearbox oil level. Then check to ensure that your electric fan is working and it's not heat related.

If it's not a mechanical problem then it could be ECU related. This is rare, but so much of the car is now managed by the ECU that it could be the source of all evil. evil2:

Also, what petrol are you using? Try to use only 97ron or better. If you don't the car automatically starts to retard the ignition. If you are not using 97 ron then drive the car until it is almost empty, fill with 97ron fuel and then drive till it's almost empty again. This time when you fill with 97ron disconnect the battery for 30 minutes. This should reset the ECU and should improve the running of the engine, if not performance too. In Japan these cars are usually running on 99ron or better fuel! :bow:

If you have a pre 98 car then it's probably worth changing the ECU anyway, since you'll instantly get 20 more ps and also better fuel mapping. This is what I'm going to do.

Let me know how you get on.

[Pescha]

Hi,

I had the light problem come on once I had the shudder fixed.... So I went into the Mitsubishi mechanic and had the computer put on... Turned out to be a vaccum problem which -Legnumvr4- told me it was... Well it came on once more so i popped the hood and I actually pushed on where Rhys told me they where INSERT INTO post VALUES (two little black box thingies on the firewall) and they moved a couple of mil and since then touch wood INSERT INTO post VALUES (my head) the lights have not come up since, nearly 2 months later! :thumb:

I hope this helps a little....

Pescha!

[haydar]

Pescha

That's really good advice!
Any chance of posting pictureINSERT INTO post VALUES (s) to accompany the procedure?
This should then be moved to the FAQs section of the forum.

Regards

[bonsai boy]

japanese sat nav systems wont work in the uk.
you can use the screen on most for dvd player
if its the cd rom type

[Nik77]

haydar, thanks for the advice. I am using cheap fuel at the moment... waiting for my fuel card to come in so i get get the good stuff.

it is a 97 version.. where would i get the ecu chip from? is it worth doing any other mods at this time?


Thanks for all the advice...

[haydar]

Originally posted by Nik77
haydar, thanks for the advice. I am using cheap fuel at the moment... waiting for my fuel card to come in so i get get the good stuff.

it is a 97 version.. where would i get the ecu chip from? is it worth doing any other mods at this time?


Thanks for all the advice...

The one mod that's way better than anything else is the boost upgarde. It totally transforms the car with A LOT more power and torque down the rev range. Usually one upgrades the exhaust INSERT INTO post VALUES (HKS Super Drager) and induction kit INSERT INTO post VALUES (HKS again) before the boost upgrade but I'm not convinced it's totally necessary in that order???

The exhaust makes the car sound fantastic though, especially through tunnels, and gives the impression that you are driving something special.

The other thing to consider are the wheels and tyres. If you are on the standard 16" rims and don't want to change them, the best tyre I found by far was Perrelli P0s. They make a lot of motorway noise but are brilliant. In contrast I found the P6000 terrible! If you can afford it then upgrading to 17 or even 18" rims with Yoko AVS sports seem to be an excellent choice.

Lastly, if you find your brakes are warped INSERT INTO post VALUES (and there is a thread on the site that goes into detail about how brakes don't actually warp but you know what I mean) and the car shakes when braking at high speed, DO NOT buy the standard VR4 replacement disks. After-market disks for the EVO IV will fit straight on. I have EBC turbo drilled grooved disks and accompanying pads which are 100 times better than the standard VR4s disks and pads. Demon Tweaks do a set of disks also and I've heard that Ferodo pads work very well too. If you have 17" rim INSERT INTO post VALUES (with the correct ofset) then you can fit EVO V/VI/VII brembo disks. Try to find a set secondhand otherwise they are very expensive.

Lastly, I found a source in Japan that can delivery the upgrade ECUs. If you check out the For Sale/Wanted forum you'll see the thread called 280ps ECUs direct from Japan.

Hope that helps