Nicks Project Hamilton.

[Bobby~d]

Thanks much. Will do that.

[adaxo]

How come its just happen that I bought very same set of teins week ago??!!

So happy with your description as I've been run on Super Wagons for a while and they were way too soft for my liking so I back to different set which originally came with the car, they are teins too but some old school ones, no edfc compatible, but far too hard and as it happen I eventually start to use my car more often they piss me off so much that I purchased exact set as yours and I HOPE they will be spot on.

Good work with a lights too, mine still gathering dust on the shelf, actually you just made me want to finish them off.

[Nick Mann]

How come its just happen that I bought very same set of teins week ago??!!

Great minds!

[adaxo]

@Nick Mann have a question for you, by any chance you remember EDFC motors numbers/sizes for teins ? I hunting down set of them but stuck as there's 3 sizes available and I don't know which one suit our coil overs.

[Nick Mann]

Nope, but I can have a look and see if I can find out.

[Nick Mann]

My controller is EDKU4-K4469. I think that is the same for all types. The motor kit I can't see a part number on. Looking at the coilover instructions, the thread on the top of the strut for mounting the motors is M12 on all four. Looking in the EDFC manual, the motor kit that has all four motors with an M12 thread is EDK05-12120. I am reasonably confident I have read it all right, but as I no longer have the box the motors came in I can't be 100% confident.

It also looks like they list that motor kit for the EC5W with new controllers:
https://www.tein.co.jp/srch/edfc_e_r...S3&ktk=0&sld=1

[adaxo]

Nope, but I can have a look and see if I can find out.

They should have numbers on the side, I'm after 001,002,or 003 as they represent threads 10, 12 and 14 mm and apparently they differ between front and back, just need to confirmation that I spend money on the right thing, coil overs are still on long way from JP so I just trying to wire up everything before they arrive and do a swap within 40 minutes, plug & play.



edit, so looks like I was wrong with assumption that we got different motor sizes front/back, thanks for a link

[MarkSanne]

I've had a EDFC TEIN setup on my Legnum and later transferred it to my V6 N/A Galant and I can confirm: all motors are exactly the same.

[adaxo]

I have just been re-reading this thread, and realised I have got a few jobs beginning to mount up again. So I thought I would update the list of to do stuff on the first post and add the new bits and bobs too.

Underseal using Rust Bullet. I plan to strip the car as far as I can to underseal - most of it is coming apart anyway for the list below, but I also hope to remove the rear subframe and the fuel tank to really get into the difficult to reach areas. This was achieved relatively well, but I have not done behind the plastic sills, or behind the rear bumper. I also now have some hammerite with waxoyl spray to do the inside of the doors and the box ections under the car.
Sound deaden using Silent Coat and felt. The main car was done and has certainly helped, but the door skins need to be done too.
Manual convert, although the final drive ratio will still be an issue for me to resolve at some point. Converted and running well! I need to adjust the reverse light switch though....
Install the competition clutch and lightened flywheel I bought from Eurospec. Installed. I like it!
Install my Brembo setup with Performance Friction floating discs and pads. The Brembos have been powder coated so need rebuilding too. Installed, working well.
Install the engine from VOR as the previous owner ported and polished the heads and fitted oversized big end bearings. Not done - there wasn't enough time for me to sort the engine the way I wanted to. It is in the garage waiting for me to find time to put TD04s on it.
Install the ARC intercooler from VOR Fitted. I sprayed it matt black too for a bit of stealth. Yeah, yeah, not so good from a performance point of view, but it looks better!
Refurbish my Tein Super Wagons with EDFC (the shock bodies are in bad shape after nearly 5 years of salted roads) and install. Installed. Painted the shock body hammerite blue. Much prefer this setup to the Tanabe Sustec Pro that the car came with.
Fit the Evo 7 rims I have had powder coated in anthracite. Fitted.
Possibly fit an SAYC rear diff. Fitted. The tail seems more likely to get a little out of shape now!
Hopefully tart up the engine bay a little on the way. Just a little. More to come, I think.

Most fluids will have to be done with the work listed above. There are additional service items I will be doing on the way:
Full cambelt service, all pulleys and pump, oils filters and plugs.
New driveshaft seals. All done.

Since this thread finished I have also got some winter tyres fitted to my Evo 9 rims. The 9's have also been finished in anthracite now.
I have fitted some gas struts to the bonnet!
Also, my boost control issues have returned. I am back to suspecting it is a bad connection to the solenoid. I now have a Perrin 3 port solenoid in there, so it should be easy enough to prove if it is actuating or not - I just need to plug evoscan in and pop the bonnet to listen for it clicking!


So still to do:
Finish the last few bits of undersealing.
Sound deaden the doors.
Adjust the reverse light switch.
Install my Swinks (tm) dash overlay.
Sort out the boost control issue. Tune it to higher boost. (Only currently about 0.8 bar.)
Add a rear fog light switch! (MOT is due again soon and I still haven't sorted it!)

Then the more long term things are:
Finish acquiring car PC components and install.
Sort out VORs engine with the TD04's and install.
Think about a new rear bumper or a repair and respray. It was slightly dinked before I got the car and is about the only external issue that bugs me! The dink isn't so bad, but it has upset the panel gap around the tailgate/bumper shut line.

I think that is it at the moment?!

One question there, hows competition clutch do? I assume you did few miles on it since 2003, would you recommend it? asking as I'm in the hunt for decent clutch with daily and a bit of track capacity and cant decide in between ACT and CC, CC is about £150 cheaper than ACT but second one have much better reviews. So would you buy it again? How is to drive in traffic?

Ta

[Nick Mann]

It is heavier than stock but not bad. If I really abuse it then I get a burnt clutch smell. It has always been more than adequate, always held the power.
I need to use slightly more revs than normal when pulling away to avoid stalling but that is the lightweight flywheel I think more than the clutch itself.
I have had one failure when the release bearing came away from the pressure plate. This was a washer not seated properly. It was not long after I fitted the clutch and since removing the washer it has been perfect. I don't know what was to blame, my installation or the release bearing or the pressure plate or something else but it has been fine since.

[adaxo]

Thanks, clutch burn smell its a bit worrying as this means its slipping under load (or should I say abuse)? I remember when Ian used to come over for some jobs and he usually use all power to get there from Liverpool like on stage, his clutch smell too, he's got CC stage 2 exact as yours.

I'm unsure on what washer you on about? spring clip which holds pull bearing perhaps ?

[Nick Mann]

There is a very small thrust washer in there somewhere. I didn't notice it on installation but I found the remains after! The clutch smell is only there if I slip the clutch aggressively and it disappears quickly after. On the stock clutch the smell was there until I was gentle with the car for a while but now it goes as soon as I behave.

[miller]

Is this thing still going?

[Nick Mann]

Plenty more to do to it yet. Lots of bits sat in the garage but no time to install them!

[Nick Mann]

I've done a couple of little things this year.

I have finally got the PC installed. So far, I have to say, I am underwhelmed. It was working brilliantly for a couple of days, then the issues have been getting worse. I need to spend some time on this to work it out, but I suspect the power supply is a little over worked. The first issue was USB stuff dropping out. Removing the CD writer helped, although by then the bluetooth dongle had given up completely. Then Centrafuse decided it didn't want to pass any sound through to the speakers. No music, no notification dongs on button presses etc. Now Centrafuse refuses to put an album into it's play list. The album appears, is selectable, but then disappears as fast as it appeared. Still no noise. I am now using Driveline which works okay except for awkward volume controls. Now however, I have a new problem which is that the PC randomly turns off. I think it is motion based so I am assuming a poor connection somewhere, but it could still be an overworked power supply. *sigh* Just briefly it did everything! Now it spends most of its time off.

I also got a refurbed Momo wheel through @adaxo which I am very pleased with. Unfortunately the rest of the interior now looks a little tired! The look of the wheel complements the car well IMO, and the feel is improved greatly, The Nardi wheel was showing its age too.

20170531_105827.jpg20170531_125732.jpg20170531_125751.jpg

[Nick Mann]

Those of you who have been round here long enough will have noticed that this thread started just over 5 years ago. So theoretically the car is due a major service again. I have decided it is time to throw some love at the car again to try and keep it in good shape. A major service will be occurring over the next few weeks, but it will be evenings and weekends so will not be as intense as it was five years ago! We are going camping in mid August so I need it back on the road as our large family car by then.

I have had the gearbox tickled to run slightly better ratios (this started when the clutch release bearing disengaged and I drove it home with no clutch, destroying 3rd gear syncro along the way!) but since then it has never been quite perfect. The only issue with it now is that I can't change fast into third. A slow change into third is fine, but a fast change leads to a crunch every time. I believe this is a typical worn syncro issue s I will be getting this sorted.

My stage 2 competition clutch has been slipping more and more over the last few months. It is mostly behaving at the moment, but for a while I have not been able to pull away fast without a large amount of clutch slip. So I am going to install a stage three.

Seeing as the gearbox is coming out, I figured I will remove the engine as well to do the cambelt service. It will make it a lot easier but will also help me to tinker with the other bits I plan on doing. I have some 262 cams and a ViPEC ECU in the garage that have been bought over the last few years. It seems a shame not to get those installed whilst I am doing the work. I also think that I might be showing some early symptoms of head lift as I am losing a little coolant when driving hard. So the ARP head stud group buy is a direct link to the tinkering I want to do. I don't want to remove the heads, so I will be attempting the one stud at a time change with the heads in place whilst the cams are out of the way.

So hopefully the next few weeks will see some more progress on the car!

[galantnight]

Hi Nick,
Just out of interest how many miles have you done in the five years ?? since you done the cam belt on the basis that you did it five years ago if I remember correctly ??
Thanks

[Nick Mann]

Approx 20 to 25 thousand. No where near the mileage but just over the 5 years.

[galantnight]

Thanks Nick

[adaxo]

Nice to see some love coming vr4 way, I have a brief pleasure driving vr4 with vipec fitted (ex John car) and I almost sheet myself, its different beast with it, also have a doubtful pleasure driving different car with CC stage two clutch, exact as yours from the same GB, and OH GOOD it was killing my knee after couple of miles in light traffic, also almost ON/OFF behaviour was unbearable and very hard to get right so smell was awful, IMO you could try them guys they strengthen up springs and fit some special cushions to my standard clutch and its holding well (about 500nm of torque) past couple thousand miles at really fraction of CC clutch price.