post maintenance issues. need some help please.

[kaotikgood]

Hello all, it's been a while since I've been on, but I've run into something that's stumping me.

This all started because my radiator cracked, so ordered the new radiator and decided to go the whole nine yards (water pump, crank seal, cam seals, valve cover seals, plug seals, timing belt, alt and PS belt...and so on). got that all hashed out, btw im traditionally an 2JZ-GTE guy...these quad cam motors are no walk in the park for timing! everything is back together now. start it up, takes a couple tries...but it gets it. no im having serious trouble getting the car to idle correctly. cleaned out the IACV, nope. noticed that there is a slight vaccum leak coming from the, what i can tell is plastic, adjustment screw on the throttle. start it up and work your way past it revving up and falling on its face, and about 3 minutes into what i guess you could call "idle" the check engine light comes on. it also seems as though my radiator fans are ALWAYS running full blast, even at startup. i have the option to go to the dealer here in japan, but the USD:YEN rate isnt so much in my favor and the dealers here charge a ton. if anyone can point me in any direction it would be greatly appriciated! email me at kaotikgood(at)me(dot)com. thanks!

jZ

[Nick Mann]

If the check engine light is on then you should be able to pull diagnostic codes. That info would be interesting.

[kaotikgood]

If the check engine light is on then you should be able to pull diagnostic codes. That info would be interesting.

only place to go out here is the mitsu dealer... unfortunately.

[alan]

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthr...ht=flash+codes
post 14 will tell you how to get them,the connector is under the dash just to the left of the steering wheel (the black one )

[Gly]

your timings out, or something wrong with the cam angle sensor is my bet.

[kaotikgood]

your timings out, or something wrong with the cam angle sensor is my bet.

from the fact that i used cam lock and belt with zip-ties this was my first guess as well...but i swore it was dead on..quintuple checked it because of how unsure i was first time in this motor, and im 50/50 on whether or not it isnt one tooth on one sproket off. these are interference motors yeah? can any damage result from being a degree off? any sugestiong..sigh...for me to go back in and adjust timing?

...soooo...

ignition on with the car off, P1 jumpered to P4on the diag port, and the results were; BTW...THANK YOU ALAN!

ABS:33 SOLUTION?

ECU:21>"21 water temperature sensor systematic 13A- 13" SOLUTION? simple checking the connecter, it was "soft" seated on the plug, measure twice cut once right? DOH...(self)face-slap!

AYC: Blinking at what appeared to be ≤ a 1Hz rate? SOLUTION?

[Nick Mann]

Has reseating the water temp sensor solved the problem? There are two sensors - a simple one wire connector for the dash gauge and a multi-plug jobby very close to it for the ECU. Just mentioning it to check you have waggled the right one.

[wintertidenz]

AYC blinking slowly usually indicates no error.

[kaotikgood]

AYC blinking slowly usually indicates no error.

it usually indicates nothing wrong with AYC only, because it was blinking along side the other two? nothing wrong is where i want to be, unfortunatly, not where im at. just out of curiosity what rate is blinking slowly, i have no basis for comparison?

Has reseating the water temp sensor solved the problem? There are two sensors - a simple one wire connector for the dash gauge and a multi-plug jobby very close to it for the ECU. Just mentioning it to check you have waggled the right one.

it seems to have allowed me to get to a stable idle after performing the initial 2krpm warm up and adjusting back down to around 850rpm. when i went back into diagnostic, i was supprised to see everything was unchanged...same three indications, does the ecu need to be reset?

jZ

[kaotikgood]

ECU:21 is no longer being indicated in diagnostic.

Is the plastic/nylon adjustment screw for the IACV a individually replaceable part? does anyone have the part number?

[wintertidenz]

It will blink along with the others - however if it's blinking about once per second then there are no faults stored. If you have an auto, you will notice the N light blinking as well - probably at the same rate.

Yes you will need to reset the ECU - disconnect the battery for about 5 minutes, then reconnect.

When you start it up again you will need to leave air con on and allow it to idle for about 5-10 minutes so it can readjust - if it stalls, start it up again and let it run.

[kaotikgood]

Check.

Both AYC and ECU light blinking at the same rate now. Still have the ABS:33 which corresponds to "33 Snsr.lr- gap Left rear sensor," if anyone can shed some light onto that one I would greatly appreciate it.

Now that it has the ability to idle and drive I am noticing that occasionally throughout the RPM band it feels like its missing, not bad just ever so slight of a sputter. I immediately think timing or fuel, since just replaced the timing belt that's the direction I'm going to go. Unfortunately, due to my current schedule, I don't have the ability to do the work myself this time, so it will have to go to the bases service shop. The only other thing that I've noticed is that occasionally it will rev from 850 to 1200-1300 and back to 850 and repeat this 3-4 times. Very similar to a vacuum leak in my opinion. I noticed when I was starting it up for the first time after servicing it that that plastic adjustment screw in the throttle body was allowing a lot of air to escape. When I really got down in there and looked at it, it was almost completely destroyed on the top, no telling how bad the rest of it is.

Can that screw be replaced individually or do i need an entire throttle body? Does anyone happen to have one or the part number?

Thanks again all!

jZ

[MarkSanne]

MD608806 (o-ring)
MD614948 (screw)
MD614532 (cap)

I don't have the cap on my Legnum/VR2, so it's probably optional.

[kaotikgood]

Thanks Mark!

UPDATE: Timing appears to be dead on. So I am now moving on to thinking it is fuel cut, more to follow.

[richy rich]

Fuel cut is vilent so I don't think its that. Sounds like hesitation check leads,plugs and coil packs.

[kaotikgood]

Richard, took the advice and based on the soft connection on the coolant temperature sensor giving me the check engine light, i went back and verified every connection i removed while servicing it. started it back up and has run great since. thank you!

[richy rich]

No prob