Hi, it's a long shot I know, but does anyone know what size and thread type the unions are on the metal hydraulic lines from the AYC pump?
Thanks in advance.
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Hi, it's a long shot I know, but does anyone know what size and thread type the unions are on the metal hydraulic lines from the AYC pump?
Thanks in advance.
Sent from my HTC Desire S using Tapatalk 2
1st 1998 PFL LEGNUM VR4
2nd 1999 RALLIART FL LEGNUM VR4 EVO 8 BREMBO'S AND EVO 9 ENKEI ALLOYS 26/02/11
PLX WIDEBAND AFR CONTROLLER & GAUGE 05/03/11
CARBON WRAPPED CENTRE CONSOLE 05/0311
FORGE SPLIT-R DUMP VALVE 05/03/11
SWOOSH BOOST/VAC GAUGE 05/03/11
JDM HEADLIGHTS MODIFIED TO LHD 05/03/11
FUJITSUBO JAZMA SS EXHAUST FITTED 07/03/11
D2 RACING COILOVERS FITTED 12/03/11
EBC REDSTUFF PADS FRONT AND REAR 19/03/11
MOCOL 10 ROW OIL COOLER FOR THE G/BOX 26/03/11
OIL CATCH CAN 10/04/11
2.5" -3" HOME MADE DOWNPIPES AND DE-CAT 28/04/11
AYC LIGHT BARS ADDED TO CLOCK 14/05/11
SWAPPED 45,000MILE ENGINE FROM LEGNUM 1 TO LEGNUM 2 13/06/2011
MAGNECOR 8MM LEADS AND DENZO IRIDIUM PLUGS GAPPED TO 0.8MM 13/06/2011
255LPH FUEL PUMP (HOT-WIRED) SARD FPR 27/01/2012
SO FAR....
try mlr register as a few folk have changed to braided lines, so will know the size.
Updating Soon!! 1998 Legnum VR4, fully serviced every 4500 miles. Fully Amsoil'd. Falken 453's, EVO 8 FQ320 rear diff.
Good call hadn't thought about them!
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I am very interested in this. My lines to the rear difff are damaged and need to sort this out. Please post answer.
Well I now the hex head is 14mm but that probably doesnt help. Can be a pain to undo, I made a tool by cutting a slot down the side of a single hex impack socket to remove them without the pain of rounding off the hex edges. How about getting some stainless hard pipe and bending up a new set that will last the life of the car, and idea I have been playing with.
The only VR4 legnum that has my backside rut imprinted on the drivers seat.
That's pretty much my plan, hench needing to find the union size, plus the pump on mine is hooded, I have a replacement but need the lines...
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Funnily enough I have a pump on the bench at the moment, as as far as I can make out, the size is 1/4" NPT. A 1/4" BSP fitting runs nicely into it, but I know that the adjustable switches that Malc supplies are NPT. BSP and NP are "sort of" interchangeable in so much as one will run into another, but the profile of the threads is different AFAIK, so you shouldn't really mix them for pressure critical systems.
That said, these take a line, rather than a single device on the end (like a switch or sensor), so the seal of the thread is less critical, and it's the seal of the flare in the end of the pipe that's more important.
Believed to be the only PFL Legnum parked on my drive unless you know otherwise.
: Hardwired Walbro 255 : FSE FPR : Denso IK22s : 600x300x100 FMIC : 3" Fujitsubo exhaust : 3" decat : K&N Panel : R-Spec dump valve : Cusco ARBs : Braided Brake Lines :
: Momo Steering Wheel : Tein Coilovers : Evo 8 SAYC : 17" J9 Advans : Phormula KS-4 : TurboSmart EBC : 19PSI : Full suite of Stri X-Line gauges : LC-1 Wideband : Asus Eee 4g running EvoScan :
Brilliant cheers for the info mate, will have to invest in a couple of unions when I get back from a surprisingly sunny Scotland.
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It's also worth noting that each of the hoses that run from the pump to the diff are in three parts which can be separated: a hard line at each end and a flexible section in the middle. The flexible section in the middle has a female 1/4" fitting on each end, and then the hard lines at each end each have a male 1/4" fitting on each end.
This means that if you bugger one of the hard lines, it can be replaced individually (ie no harder than a brake line to repair). This could come in handy for my "put the AYC pump somewhere else" mini-project.