heres mine. no subs now though
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthr...ht=battery+box
heres mine. no subs now though
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthr...ht=battery+box
also keep in mind, with the plastic box's they are fairly flimsy and dont actually hold the battery fixed,
and you really should bolt a metal tray in the bottom, and something to hold the battery.
you can cut up the factory battery tray and use that if your box is big enough,
this also lets you use the original battery clamp.
Oh really, seems that the boxes are purely Aesthetic and no more?
So basically, fit MDF to boot, carpet it - fit a tray inside box screw/bolt to MDF then secure battery to tray.
Mmm, ok thanks for that info, really helpful!
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How much did that battery cost?
pretty much, and keeps any spill contained.
when i used a plastic box, and even now with my alloy box, i used the factory tray sitting in the box with a clamp.
bolted all the way through the car floor, and couple of over-sized washers underneath keep it all secure.
build it to with stand the worst, (car rolling over) dont want a battery flying around trying to kill you and the occupants.
$450? Woah damn thats expensive haha but I take it was worth it?
You can get Endurant Crankmaster CM750AGM for about $400, these are basically a Yellow Top Optima(similar to the Orbital Carsten has). They are rated at 750cca, but mine was tested at 1150cca..
The Optimas are still over the $700 mark, my one lasted about 8/9 years, still actually holds charge and starts a car fine, just didnt like being in the car for a month(though this might have been alarm related). On the other side Wynn's yellowtop lasted 3 years and wont take any charge.... While my Endurant is still fine, though it usually lives on a smart charger these days...
Ok dont really have any floor pics(car is back together and is now full of crap as im moving next weekend...).
Heres the ground lug:
DSC02357a.jpg
Basically the floor is lifted by 5 pieces of 18mm mdf(three at the front and two wider ones at the back) These are glued to the boot floor, then there is a full layer made of 4 pieces, which are screwed to the spacers.
The top layer is made of 4 pieces, one main piece with a trapdoor for the spare, and two side "wings" like so:
DSC02327.JPG
Then its just covered with carpet.
yep what Jeremy said about the battery's, mines 7ish? years old.
still starts the car well, but it is getting on the tired side, only holds a charge that can start the car for about 4 weeks.
on the look out for its replacement but no hurry.
Cool, thanks for the pictures Jeremy.
What's the best method for getting the rubber back on the white plastic washer thingy?
Found it, there are four clips....
I dont usually use that bung, I usually use the one on the right of the first pic, though that one is pretty good too.
Yeah, I tried that one first, but I couldn't figure out whether I could get a cable through, felt like there wasn't a way through for the cable, hence using the other one.
Barry, I've found much better to use grommet shown in my thread.
Ex: Galant VR4
Running 268 HP ATW and 443 Nm torque at 0.9 bar
Now: Lancer Evolution 8 FQ-300
Running 325 HP ATW and 510 Nm torque at 1.6 bar
@CANDEE
hey Jeremy, where did you buy the Endurant Crankmaster from???
I got mine from Hutt City Auto Parts down here in Welly, but you should be able to get one from any Hella/Endurant supplier. Just ask for a CM24/750AGM(the new code on the pdf on the page).
How did this go Barry?
Time for me to tackle this in the 6g whilst irradicating some earthing issues.. For those who have done this, did you run the new cable to the previous battery positive connector in the engine bay or did you run new cables to alternator, starter etc? Any under bonnet/hood shots?
Any suggestions on gauge of wire?
Any issues with running power cable through the same points as say lekky boost controller wires etc?
Cheers
Dek
Last edited by pezza; 24-09-2012 at 01:16 PM.
I've not started it yet mate, got side tracked with Light Painting
First, i need to buy a Battery, which is gonna cost about 180 quid..
for the cable I used 0 gauge, I plan on welding a bracket on to chassis for the Negative Terminal, rather than running two cables.