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Thread: Low Temp Thermostat for 2.5 Sport

  1. #21
    Rambaud's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by wintertidenz View Post
    If the garage put the wrong coolant in and blocked it all up, it's their fault and they should be responsible and fix it for no charge. At least that's how it usually works here in NZ.
    That is the usual principle here in the UK also.
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  2. #22

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    I dont really trust the garage that I have been taking the car to anymore, I've been down to my local wilko this morning and got the bits I need, I'm going to flush the radiator later on this afternoon and hope that helps in the short term. Ordered a new thermostat, fuel filter, rocker cover gaskets and oil filter so when they get here I will flush the rad again when I put the new thermostat in, going to do an oil change as well as I have no idea what is actually in there and for peace of mind I would rather just put a fresh lot in and was thinking of doing an engine flush but not 100% sure as I have heard good and bad things about them

  3. #23
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    My opinion on engine flushes is that they can only do good to an engine, unless the engine is already goosed. There is no issue with modern engines, unlike the bad old days when gunked up bits of oil used to stop stuff leaking!

    The best stuff for flushing an engine of old oil is specialised flushing fluid, whereby you replace ALL of the oil with the fluid (about 4-5L) and run the engine for about 15 mins (probably at idle, or maybe a constant 2000 rpm - the instructions would specify). You definitely DO NOT drive the car, because damage will be caused with an engine under load due to the very thin consistency of the flushing fluid. Then drain, fit new oil filter and refill with new oil, and Bob's your uncle.

    On to the new oil, I would use a good quality filter and high quality fully synthetic oil. Our V6 Sport runs on Amsoil 0w-30 oil. Castrol EDGE is also very good. For a decent oil like this though, you are looking at spending around £60 for 5L. To me, that actually represents exceptionally good value for the product you are getting - there's no point in spending £30 for 5L of something which isn't in reality even a quarter as good. Poorer quality oils break down much easier and in a shorter space of time, leading to increased wear and worsening fuel economy - in fact, the fuel savings over just a couple of thousand miles are likely to exceed the additional cost of the decent oil.

    The coolant side of things has already been mentioned. Do NOT use the (usually pink) long-life 5 year stuff. This will mix with any remaining blue/green coolant and sludge up the system. Flush the system fully (and by fully, I mean with LOTS of fresh water running through the system repeatedly!) before putting the new stuff in. The blue glycol-based coolant (usually states '2 years') is the stuff to go for. But as said, if the garage put the pink stuff in - they should foot the bill. After all, that's not a warranty issue, that's plain negligence, especially when they should know better.
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  4. #24
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    And of course, as a fully paid up CVR4 member, you get 15% off all Amsoil products at the main importer's website, http://performanceoilsltd.co.uk/petrol_engine_oil.html

    In order of preference for the V6, I would use 0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30 or 5w-40 - codes AZO, ASL, ATM or AFL, respectively.

  5. #25
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    Flush the Cooling System out with a continuous flow of water from a hosepipe

  6. #26

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    Cheers guys, I will flush it out later on today when I get a spare hour. Any brand of engine flush that is better than the rest or are they all about the same. I will get my oil from performance oils. How do I get the discount do I have to put a code in or something similar at checkout?

  7. #27
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    There is a link to the discounts under the Member Links drop down at the top of the page. Or you can click here to go direct to the Amsoil discount info!

    Amsoil do an engine flush - the add a can to the old oil type. I've used these plenty of times with no problems.

    I've even used it on the little Swift - which incidentally is currently running Amsoil 5w-30!

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by elnevio View Post
    I've even used it on the little Swift - which incidentally is currently running Amsoil 5w-30!
    Pfffft!

    My lawnmower is running 0w-30

  9. #29
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    I had loss of coolant from a V6-24 - it was a dodgy radiator cap. It was allowing hot water to vent out to the expansion tank, but it wasn't sucking it back in again. The rad cap *looked* OK from a visual inspection.

    Certainly a much easier thing to replace than a thermostat!

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wodjno View Post
    Pfffft!

    My lawnmower is running 0w-30
    Well, to be fair, I don't have THAT much power to play with!

  11. #31
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    I always use forte to flush engine

    Flushing cooling system could be tricky if you try to use hosepipe with cold water, this just shut thermostat and water go nowhere near engine block, I used hot water for it instead
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  12. #32
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    Although as the thermostat is going to be changed, why not take the old one old, reassemble the pipework, and flush it like that, before installing the new one?

  13. #33
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    Yeah thats the way, but is not really obvious for novice, is it?

  14. #34
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    No, but I hadn't really thought about it before!

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    Really annoys me when I see posts like this. You need to understand that the majority of so called mechanics and service centers out there havent got a clue on anything, (never mind a VR4) if you are lucky they may service your ford escort with some success.
    There are very few mechanics, most of these people are just fitters nowadays. They neither understand or care about what they do. Enough of this. You may well have already lost the new rad because of these monkeys. I have never heard of anyone successfully unblocking a rad that has been treated to a diet of a mixture of different incompatible anti freezes. The box noise decreasing with the clutch being depressed is usually a sign of input shaft bearing wear / failure. Scream for help from some of the members here who have a finger in the mechanics and looking after of these cars. (Nick Mann comes to mind). You need the overheating / rad problem sorting like a fortnight ago or you will be looking for another engine next. If in doubt ask on the forum. Incredibly helpful, knowledgeable interested people here, not like other forums where you get flamed to death. Its part of your VR4 learning curve and what the membership fee is about.
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  16. #36

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    Nah its ok, I know I dont know a thing about the car, I can understand everything I'm being told and taking it in so I know for the future. I am learning as I go and the only reason I checked you guys out was because I was getting so frustrated with the mechanics. I'm really glad I have to be honest. Chris gave me the number of a mechanic he knows who is right near me so going to give him a call to see what he thinks.

    I think a lot of the problems that I am having now is because the car was written off in December and I refused to let her go so bought her back from the insurance and sent her down the garage to be 'fixed'. I am assuming from what I have learnt they didnt give 2 flying f's and just bodged it all and it is all now starting to show because I'm driving the car a lot more.

  17. #37

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    Just got off the phone to the mechanic, hes going to look at her on Thursday afternoon. so hopefully *fingers crossed* all shall be fixed. Plus he actually knew what I was talking about , Thank you Chris

  18. #38
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    'Like' button required!

    Hopefully, all will be going swimmingly very soon!

  19. #39
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    Cat129, you are here for the same reason a I am, was ripped off by 'mechanics' b4 and got to the state of taking loan to get car fixed then take another loan for 'new' engine due to previous poor repairs. That was 12 years ago and then I joined to car enthusiast club and got my car sorted within few days without spending a penny more. Since then I never went to see a car 'mechanic' (apart from MOT) again.

  20. #40

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    At the risk of sounding even more useless than I already am, Could someone please check that what I am going to be doing to the cooling system tonight with Holts 2 part rad flush is correct.

    1. Drain engine block and radiator , Drain rad by taking bottom hose off. Drain engine block by removing the cylinder block drain plug
    2. Flush the radiator with cold water by using the hose pipe into the top of the radiator until the water runs clear
    3. Reconnect everything, fill up with water and add part 1 of the solution directly to the radiator
    (I don't understand why you would do this bit, the bottle says to Cover filler pipe with damp cloth but for systems with an overflow tank replace cap on rad and cover overflow tank opening with damp cloth)
    4. Put the cap back on the rad and Cover the top of the overflow with a damp cloth
    5. Bottle says run engine at fast idle for 30 mins, I was guessing around 2000rpm (Neighbors are gonna love me tonight) It says do not allow to boil. I am assuming that if the liquid was boiling I would see it bubble in the expansion tank?
    6.Switch off engine, let it cool, drain the rad and the engine block as before and then run cold water from the hose directly into rad until it runs clear again.
    7. Put everything back on, fill with hot water and run engine for 5 mins at idle.
    8. Drain the system
    9. Fill system with cold water and put part 2 of the solution directly into the rad
    10. put rad cap on and cover expansion tank with damp cloth
    11. Run engine for 15 mins at idle not allowing to boil
    12. Allow to cool, drain rad and engine again
    13. Put everything back on again
    13. Take thermostat out, reverse flush system (Bottle says ' remove thermostat, and direct clean water into thermostat housing so that it circulates in a reverse direction') I'm guessing that It wants me to squirt water directly into the engine block but that doesn't sound like a good thing to do to me.
    14. Reverse flush until water runs clear.
    15. Check thermostat works by sticking it in hot water and making sure the bottom valve moves
    16. Fill up with coolant. I bought Xstream G48 concentrated and am going to dilute it 50/50(Only thing the local wilco had with Ethylene Glycol in it)

    Sorry for asking you guys to check all this over, you must be getting a bit fed up with me by now. I would just rather get it right and know what im doing is correct instead of fudging it and asking for more help later.

    Thank you in advance

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