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Thread: "Engine start" button - wiring

  1. #1
    swinks's Avatar

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    "Engine start" button - wiring

    Just been thinking of fitting "Engine Start" button due to occasional play up of my key ignition barrel (START position).
    Has anyone fitted one? What's the feedback?
    And most important any wiring graph how to hook up button wires to ignition barrel?
    Much appreciated your thoughts and help with wires
    Ex: Galant VR4
    Running 268 HP ATW and 443 Nm torque at 0.9 bar
    Now: Lancer Evolution 8 FQ-300
    Running 325 HP ATW and 510 Nm torque at 1.6 bar

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    Quote Originally Posted by swinks View Post
    Just been thinking of fitting "Engine Start" button due to occasional play up of my key ignition barrel (START position).
    Has anyone fitted one? What's the feedback?
    And most important any wiring graph how to hook up button wires to ignition barrel?
    Much appreciated your thoughts and help with wires
    Have you got a decent push button switch? I've found the cheap halfords ones can't take the crank current. Safer to use the push button to activate negative pole (for coil) on an additional relay

  3. #3
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    Actual button is not a problem, I'm aware of current feed requirements etc, so will look for proper gizzmo.
    Just need to know something more about hooking into wiring loom before I take any steps further.

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    Didnt Aboo have one fitted when his key was playing up when he thought is was the alarm?

  5. #5
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    Maybe.
    I know that @pezza had one fitted for the same reason.
    Any sensible wiring scheme to figure out how to hook up button, please?

  6. #6
    Humpty's Revenge's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by swinks View Post
    Maybe.
    I know that @pezza had one fitted for the same reason.
    Any sensible wiring scheme to figure out how to hook up button, please?
    When we fitted one to a vr4 of mine all we did was fit the switch & cut the cranking wire

    Soldered one side to one side of the switch & the other to the other side

    No relays involved & no problem's!

    There should be only current through it when pushed if I'm correct but that way you can only use the switch & not the key?

    You can put the ignition on with the dash lights but not activate the starter!

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    i cant remember the wire colours off the top of my head DOH
    2 options relay or no relay?
    If your going the relay route.....
    switch pin 1 - ground
    switch pin 2 - pin 85 relay
    pin 86 relay - join to 2nd ignition loom
    pin 30 relay - fused battery supply
    pin 87 relay - join to crank wire

    i think that's right (its been a while)

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by markysparky View Post
    i cant remember the wire colours off the top of my head DOH
    2 options relay or no relay?
    If your going the relay route.....
    switch pin 1 - ground
    switch pin 2 - pin 85 relay
    pin 86 relay - join to 2nd ignition loom
    pin 30 relay - fused battery supply
    pin 87 relay - join to crank wire

    i think that's right (its been a while)
    OK, next question, what colours of wires are within ignition barrel loom?
    Crank (Starter signal)?
    2nd ignition (ACC/ON)?

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    could help a bit with the wiring

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FBQwxm0uYo

  10. #10
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    It's probably quite likely that the start wires in the ignition barrel already switch a relay in the engine bay.

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    Quote Originally Posted by scott.mohekey View Post
    It's probably quite likely that the start wires in the ignition barrel already switch a relay in the engine bay.
    just about guarantee it, way to much current draw through the tiny little wires

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    The starter wire on the ignition key is 3mm2 Black-Yellow one... The relay is inside the starter motor itself.
    It will also be nice to make the second relay to switch the starter motor off as soon as engine is started, even if the button is still pushed. For that purpose the white wire (L) from alternator can be used

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    Quote Originally Posted by GalantOnly View Post
    The starter wire on the ignition key is 3mm2 Black-Yellow one... The relay is inside the starter motor itself.
    It will also be nice to make the second relay to switch the starter motor off as soon as engine is started, even if the button is still pushed. For that purpose the white wire (L) from alternator can be used
    Alex, any chance you can do some wiring graphs, pretty please?

  14. #14
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    That's just a thought...

    Engine start switch.jpg
    Last edited by GalantOnly; 01-01-2013 at 02:40 PM.

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    I have an ignition switch you are welcome to have a look at. Not a blind clue how it's wired though.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by GalantOnly View Post
    That's just a thought...

    Engine start switch.jpg
    You are star Alex!
    Rep given.

    BTW, relay #2 is the one within alternator?

    Ooops, I may be wrong, just start to look at wiring. I assume both relays are stock?
    Then in "plus controlled" option I just splice into 2W-B wire from ignition barrel?
    Sorry, just learning...

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    Quote Originally Posted by VR457 View Post
    I have an ignition switch you are welcome to have a look at. Not a blind clue how it's wired though.
    With next meet hopefully I will Jamil. Thank you!

  18. #18
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    Sorry, I only just caught up with thread but it looks like you have all the info needed to install it already, Tomasz. The only small annoyance was that I went through about 3 buttons in about 18 months to so worth buying a decent switch as even the quality assured switches from maplins weren't up to the the task.

    Cheers

  19. #19
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    No, Tomasz, both relays are non stock... And btw, the wiring of start button without any extra relays will be the crap solution
    More understandable diagram, I hope:

    edit: if you'll splice the starter wire instead of cutting, you will be able to start the engine with the key too
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by GalantOnly; 02-01-2013 at 11:37 PM.

  20. #20
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    I fitted a start switch a while back, and it was very very easy.
    i presume you have and know how to use a digital multimeter.
    just to double check you have it all correct, do the following.
    1. with ignition off check the 3 wires off the back of the ignition barrel to chassis. find the 2 wires with 0V to chassis.
    2. with ingition still off check the remaining wire ,it will have +12V on it. this is your perminent live.
    3. with the ignition key at ACC one of the wires found in point 1. will now be +12V, this is your ACC live (switched live).
    3. the remaining wire is the one you want to connect one side of the new switch to, but you have put it in parreallel with the engine start switch when you move the key to the ON position.
    4. the non connected side of the new starter switch has to be connected to the ACC live (switched live) wire you found in point 2.

    with this configuration, the new starter switch will not work unless you have ignition key in the barrel and turned to ACC.

    when i fitted my starter switch i found the yellow/black wire had about 4 inline connections in it, and they were corroded with green fur on the visible wires, obviously some that had the car befor me had done some additions and then removals of some electrical stuff, probably a turbo timmer/boost controller, i removed all the additional in line connections with a new piece of wire.
    since replacing this section of dodgey wiring, i have had no problems with starting the car using the ignition key.
    so the starter button is just a play/show off thing for me now.

    Bye for Now!

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