Ignition switch:
Pin1 (red/black) - Constant battery 12V power, fusibile link 7
Pin2 (white/black) - IG1
Pin3 - not connected
Pin4 (blue/red) - IG2
Pin5 (black/yellow) - Starter motor
Pin6 (blue/yellow) - ACC
C-105 bag1.JPG
C-105 bag2.JPG
Ignition switch:
Pin1 (red/black) - Constant battery 12V power, fusibile link 7
Pin2 (white/black) - IG1
Pin3 - not connected
Pin4 (blue/red) - IG2
Pin5 (black/yellow) - Starter motor
Pin6 (blue/yellow) - ACC
C-105 bag1.JPG
C-105 bag2.JPG
You can find the white alternator wire her
Last edited by GalantOnly; 03-01-2013 at 12:05 AM.
is that the connector on the ignition barrel or is it the one one the steering column, i only remember seeing 3 wires on the back of the ignition barrel.
the configuration i specified will allow the original key to be used or the new start button, everything still remains connected, it is just the additinal starter switch goes in parallel with the ignition barrel ON postion.
i don't have any schemeatics to hand only what is in my head from about 6 months ago.
i used a switch which is rated as a starter switch which was specified to be connected as i mentiond above, no relays required.
you can do it any way you like, if you don't have a correctly rated switch then the relay method is the best one to go for.
Last edited by Davezj; 03-01-2013 at 12:10 AM.
Bye for Now!
This is the connector
C-105 where.JPG
Hmm, that is interesting, i must have just worked out which wire was which using the thick wires as the start point.
but i must have fitted the new switch between blue/yellow (ACC) and Black/yellow (starter motor), but that does not sound right.
i will check tomorrow, and let you know.
i think it is a 40A or 50A rated push button.
Last edited by Davezj; 03-01-2013 at 01:12 AM.
I have a proper Pivot start button spliced into the factory wiring so you can use either... Also mine is wired similar to Dave's in that you have to have the key on the on position for it to work.
If I read both wiring diagrams made by Alex, both require having activated IG1 (ACC/ON) by key in a barrel
Anyway, thanks again Alex for wiring graphs! Now, it is so clear and easy
Ex: Galant VR4
Running 268 HP ATW and 443 Nm torque at 0.9 bar
Now: Lancer Evolution 8 FQ-300
Running 325 HP ATW and 510 Nm torque at 1.6 bar
Thanks for all the help here.
I now have a startbutton...
Last edited by Hemigunnar; 31-01-2013 at 12:02 PM.
I would love to do this! Prepare for more questions in this thread if i start
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The one and only... Galant with PFL VR4 bumper complete with fogs and Super VR-4 canards in Norway (unless you know otherwise)
Mods done: Eyelids, PFL VR-4 foglights, clear corner indicators and side indicators, VF-4 front strut brace, Custom rear strut brace, cusom "sports" air filter, lowered, custom sound system and Super VR-4 canards
sorry i forgot to get the pictures.
what have to consider is how do you stop someone in the car pushing the start button while the engine is already running.
if you put a big red button in the moddle of the centre console, someone will do the what does this button do, and push it. even if it says start engine under it.
you could link the relay methed to a but of logic and ensure nothing happened when you pressed it when the engine is running.
or you could make it into a start stop button, this would take a bit more logic/pic but you are still left with the same senario diving along "what does this button do" press, engine stops. you could add even more logic/pic function to ensure the car didnot shut off while driving.
or you could make the start button tamper proof these cost a lot more. button is under a cover.
or you could position it out of the way so only the driver has access to it, but most of the places you could put it, you might accidently knock it, while driving.
or you could get a tamper proof button and locate it only where the driver car get to it. this last one was my choice.
so i have a button under a flip open cover on the plasic moulding on the centre console side of the steering wheel. not many people even notice it is there, i have my flashy dash diag switch down there as well.
Dave, the diagram I've made with two relays, is the one, which de-activate the start button as soon as the engine is started
I always wanted to give one of these systems a go
http://www.digitalguarddawg.com/KEYL...COMBO-PG-1.htm
I want to do this myself and what I have seen is the push button is connected to the brake somehow, so the button is not activated until the brake pedal is pressed.
This means when you start the car, the button is disabled until your at a stop with (your foot on the brake) and press the push button.
EDIT: just as the above posts site does
This function can be disabled easily...
And here's a cheaper solution:
http://www.advancedkeys.com/products.htm
So you would connect a start button between 1&5 if you didn't go with relays?
I'm now ready to do this too but in true fashion I need to do it in a slightly different way, so fingers crossed I'm not beyond help!
Ok. When I'm at car shows I like to have my music on which requires the engine running, which means I have to keep my keys in clear sight. So I want to completely remove the key from the start process and hace it solely for steering lock release.
The immobiliser will still keep my car safe when locked and the steering lock should be enough at a show to stop any Idiot stealing it.
So I'll want two top gun style toggle switches and a start button. From what I think I've understood. If I run permanent live to one side of my first switch and ACC to the other. Then loop from the ACC side to the off side of the second switch and ign on to the other side. So it requires both switches on to activate everything. And then loop from ign on side to my starter button and crank the other side...
It will be flick flick vroom....
Is that right? Is that safe!! Haha
Oh and too kill the engine I will flick both switches off which would effectively be the same as turning the key off as it will remove power from all circuits.
Or a remote start option? I am still toying with the idea of a viper smart start alarm.
What you have said is right, make sure cables are thick enough and the switches are able to take enough current.