If you're lucky.. it'll turn into an LSD diff.
If you're lucky.. it'll turn into an LSD diff.
Driving it will be fine, but every time you hear the noise, the wear is getting worse. If you don't activate the AYC (i.e. taking it steady), nothing will deteriorate.
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As nev said the clutch packs are only use when the AYC is active, e.g. when you have 1 -3 green AYC bars on the dash flashing up.
My first VR4 rear diff made this grinding noise at one point and i just changed the oil in the clutch pack side of the diff and the noise went away and the diff/AYC work perfectly after that.
however once i got the info/fix for the grinding noise, i changed the oil the next day, my diff only made the grinding noise twice i think, so if you have been running with the grinding for long periods then the oil change might not fix it.
just change the oil as soon as possible you need less than 1L of a SPIII compliant ATF.
Bye for Now!
It's not as simple as just changing the oil. You need to actuate the solenoid in the correct manner to get ALL of the old oil out. Unless you have the gear needed to do this, you're better off getting a mitsi dealer to do it.
i agree with scott above yo will need to do a full service on the diff soon and that is not a straight forward thing changing the AYC pressure fluid in the AYC pump itself but that is a separate sytem to the clutch pack,
but to get rid of the grinding noise you just need to do the clutch pack oil as soon as possible, or ensure you don't activate the AYC in any remotely hard cornering.
you can do a full service on the rear diff and AYC system at a later date, the important bit for now is the clutch packs. and all you need for that is a socket set and big automotive syringe to put the new ATF back in the clutch pack fill hole.
there is a guide in the library on how to do it.
I have a 98 Galant Tiptronic Vr4, I can not find a traction control switch, is it standard and where should it be located?