Engine mount from aluminium subframe

[Echo Whiskey]

Lads,

I'm looking for an engine mount for my newly build VR-2.
For the engineswap we didn't use the VR-4 subframe but rather the n/a aluminium one.
However, the VR-4 mount and bracket don't line up with the subframe, neither can I use my old ones 'cause it's way different.

If anybody has a mount to fit the aluminium subframe that'd make my day.

[Davezj]

I am not sure useing the original alloy sub frame was a bood move, it does save about 20kg of weight, but they changed to the heavy pig iron subframe for a reason, it is stronger, as you are almost doubling the power of the engine that sits above it. But it is something that you can change with the engine left in place. Do a search on vr2 and you will find people that have done this conversion already.
Just use he @UserName forum feature and this will highlight the members that you are asking them a question.

I presume you are talking about the rear roll stopper at the back of he engine that does not line up as this he only mount that bolts to the subframe. The engine mount and gear box mount bolt to the chassis and take all the weight of the power plant. The only thing the rear and front mounts do is stop the engine rotating when he engine starts producing power.
Hope this helps

[Echo Whiskey]

That's indeed the one I mean.
I've got no worries about the alloy subframe not being up to the job.

Thanks though.

[Davezj]

As long as your sure it is strong enough to take the extra pounding.

i think the only way to make this work for you is to make a bespoke rear roll stopper bracket.
i think the easiest way to do it would be to use the original holes in the sub frame to mount the main part of the roll stopper with the rubber mount on it. then make a bracket that will bolt to the gear box to relocate the mating half of the mount.
you would not even have to use the same bolt holes if you can find some others to use.
the only problem is the bracket relocation bracket might push the mount further away from the gear box than it originally did. you could joggle the brackback to make the distance the same, depending how far the holes have moved.