Exciting!!!
Exciting!!!
Hi Davezj,
My plan is to make a complet rebuild , i will post all photos for sure
I'll go with 6A13 na short block ( i have one in very .. very nice condition),new crankshaft, the Pauter rods, my wiseco pistons, OS Giken cluth and max 550bhp (Don't want more)
My plan is to make a very stronger engine with not a crazy power.
For the 6A13 na short block, my turbo don't use water and for the oil jetting is not really a problem because a lot of guys use on 3000GT 6G74 and 6G75 na motors ( Debonaire 3.5 and Eclipse 3.8) and he make a tons of power without problems.
I will post all photos when i'll be ready to make the rebuild.
If anyone need special photo of parts, let me know
Saf
3000GT 1430awhp and 1132nm twin 6466CEA @ 44 psi + Galant VR4 type-S 701awhp @ 1.7 bars 6466CEA + Galant GDI to 4G63 ... In progress
can you give some idea on the parts cost?
what did you have done and how much did all the machining work cost?
this is what i intend to do on my next engine build, standard crank, stronger Pistons and rods and bigger turbos.
when you say jetting are you referring to the oil squirters directed to the bottom of pistons and cylinder bores.
or are you talking about the oil feed for the turbos.
i presume you will be using 6a13TT heads. do you have any porting work on the heads for a 550hp build.
or is it not necessary for that level of power.
Bye for Now!
for the price, i will buy all the parts in https://www.amayama.com/ . Make a basket to see ... I saw that i will need like 1700/1900€ to rebuild the engine like new.
The machining cost like 1000€ in France and for the heads, stock will be ok . i already made 480awhp with sotck heads , stock valve and stock camshaft with turbo TD04 19T.
Davezj or other, i have a question about camshaft on the 6A13 VR4. i tried to see if on the camshaft, you have a mark to see the difference on the intake vs exhaust camshaft (on the same head) but nothing!
Do you know if there are a symbole or mark to see wich is exhaust and other is intake?
Saf
Yes there is a mark on the cam shaft.
i found it after my first engine rebuild. Note i say after. lol.
i fitted the cam in my first engine completely the wrong way round all intaKe and exhaust in the wrong position so the engine tried to fire the exhaust out of the air filter.
but no damage done as the timing was correct so the inlet valves were open when the exhaust should have been.
rooky mistake.
but back to the mark question.
the mark is a very small stamp on the opposite end of the camshaft to the pulley
intake is 7
Exhaust is F
received_1505234736347678.jpeg
Last edited by Davezj; 15-11-2020 at 09:54 PM.
Thank you very much Davezj for the informations , very helpfull!
I almost finished disassembling the motor and here are the pictures.I took several photos in the event that someone would need to locate a specific part or assembly.
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I will have a lot of parts to sell because of my new setup I will leave them I think of a good price for those who wish to change their engine. Here is the set of mechanical parts that I am thinking of selling.
-6X Pistons wiseco
-6X forged rods prism
-Clutch stage 3 + Evo flywheel + Adapter + bearing
I am thinking of selling the lot for £550 plus shipping
Saf
Hi Saf,
here is something that has always puzzled me,
why is there a metal bump in the cylinder head chamber?
i can imagine it is a casting mark, but why has it not be flattened down before the heads are skimmed in the factory.
surely it is a sharp edge and source of detonation.
i have seen heads where there is shape cast in the cylinder chamber that is supposed to premot swirl in the chamber and mixes the petrol and air better to get fuller burn.
buti don't think these metal bumps are designed in for this purpose.
what do you think?
cylinder chamber nodule.JPG
hi saf,
as long as the rods and pistons are in good condition and the rod bolts, rings and bearings are included then i will take the pistons and rods.
i know the rings and bearing would not normally be usable on a different engine but would like to see what has been used in your build and the condition of them.
what size are the pistons diameter?
do the cylinders need to bored to accept them or are they factory sized.
what are the conrod big end bores, are they the same as factory?
or will the crank journals for the conrods need to be resized to accept these rods.
just trying work out what additional machining cost will be involved in using these pistons and rods.
we will have to work out a price for the rods and pistons as i do not need the clutch, flywheel and throw out bearing.
just out of interest why are changing the pistons and rods in your build?
it looks like this engine had a head lift issue/head gasket fail.
Last edited by Davezj; 19-11-2020 at 12:41 AM.