Hi All,
Looking at slim line (low profile) aftermarket radiator fan assemblies to go with an uprated Koyorad unit.
Can anyone help me out with the depth of the OEM fan assembly, is it significantly more than 2,5/8"?
Cheers,
Chris
Hi All,
Looking at slim line (low profile) aftermarket radiator fan assemblies to go with an uprated Koyorad unit.
Can anyone help me out with the depth of the OEM fan assembly, is it significantly more than 2,5/8"?
Cheers,
Chris
Yes, I believe so.
Bye for Now!
Thanks, would like to measure it but don't have access to my VR4 currently to check...
sorry i was a bit rushed, i will see if i car neasure it tonight.
That'd be great if you could roughly, cheers!
I run a 40mm rad and the fan shrouds needed to be modded to clear the intercooler piping and the power steering pump.
I run a 14" and a 12" generic aftermarket fan and they have waaaaaay more clearance than stock. Next time I take the rad out ill get a shroud made up, which might help them.
Thanks, with a bit of measuring should be able to confirm what will and won't fit.
Beware, that most aftermarket slim fans usually work in mode on/off with switch point min. +12V.
Unlike stock fans there is no transition from low to high status, i.e. 6V gives you low rpm of fan, 12V gives you max. rpm of fan.
So, to have properly working aftermarket slim fans you need to lower temperature switching fans to a full blast (12V). IIRC, Stock hedgehog controller kicks in with 12v feed something approx. 110C wich IMHO is way to high.
Not sure if explained it right...
Anyway I've used aftermarket temp controller for one of my aftermarket slim fans (passenger side) with switch point set at 87C, other fan left with stock hedgehog controller for air con purposes
Ex: Galant VR4
Running 268 HP ATW and 443 Nm torque at 0.9 bar
Now: Lancer Evolution 8 FQ-300
Running 325 HP ATW and 510 Nm torque at 1.6 bar
good info the tomasz that makes sense to me,
i would just like to find where in the ecu can you adjust the fan control switch points, as a quick flash and change this would be good.
Agree, that will benefit all of us.
It may be as not crucial with stock radiators, they are slim enough and low coolant capacity, so they are easy to quick cool down with stock control system.
In my case I have massive thick radiator (50mm core) with twice coolant capacity. I've found that stock thermostat 82C and fan control risk you to boil coolant. Simply it takes too long to cool such big rad. So, I went for 68C thermostat and aftermarket control system. Works a treat.
front of fan suround to back of fan is approx 116mm (4.5"-4.6")
front of fan suround to back of fan controller is approx 160mm (6.1"-6.2")
Thats weird as mine go on over 90C with no issues at all. The only issue that I have is forcing enough air through the rad at low speeds, hence why I want to try a shroud on mine.
The only issue is I didnt have my temp sensor on the car with the original radiator/fans to compare the results.
Now for bonus points does anyone know the CFM rating of the OEM fan assemblies... ?
Top radiator hose.
Yep makes sense, found the same looking at the manual for the flexalite controllers
Try to google Revotec Electronic Fan Cotroller. You will get idea.
Hey guys, the original fan (passenger side) has 4 wire going into it. Which 2 do we keep and use for an aftermarket fan?
Both stock fans have only 2 wires power supply.
You talking about power supply to hedgehog fan controller unit? But control unit has only 3 wires: thick blue (power after relay a/c), thick black (earth), blue/white (ecu signal).
Fans wire colours are: thick blue (power supply), thick black (earth).