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Thread: Carbon Fibre Front Wings

  1. #41

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    Next stage is to tidy up the mould edges and fill in some small air bubble holes on the inside to get a smooth finish.
    Then I can move onto getting a Carbon Fibre wing done and match it up to the car to get the correct fitment holes lined up.


    I have to admit, I'm not a massive fan of the white centre console. Having said that, it's not for me and my mate is pretty pleased with it. It does brighten up the cabin though.

  2. #42

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    On the centre consols would it be hard to swap things around ?
    My thinking is move heater control down to were the sunglass holder sits ?

  3. #43

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    Probably wouldn't be difficult. Just a bit fiddly I'd imagine.
    I suppose it depends on how much you want to keep your sunglasses holder.

  4. #44

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    Hi Alex,

    I have made a few simple carbon parts for my bike ( number plate holders, toe guard, chain guard and heel plates) and the shapes are simple so i used Tigerflor i think its called and use vacuum bags at work. I have struggled in the past to make complicated shapes as i have tried to apply the tape or tigerflor, what wax did you use is it a special complosite release wax ?

    I made a mould for the tow cover but it has tape lines in and a big crease where i could not get the vacuum bag down properly. I have filled it with matrix but as you say the legnum engine change tookover so not done anything with it in a while.

    Cheers
    Marc

  5. #45

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tam View Post
    Hi Alex,

    I have made a few simple carbon parts for my bike ( number plate holders, toe guard, chain guard and heel plates) and the shapes are simple so i used Tigerflor i think its called and use vacuum bags at work. I have struggled in the past to make complicated shapes as i have tried to apply the tape or tigerflor, what wax did you use is it a special complosite release wax ?

    I made a mould for the tow cover but it has tape lines in and a big crease where i could not get the vacuum bag down properly. I have filled it with matrix but as you say the legnum engine change tookover so not done anything with it in a while.

    Cheers
    Marc
    I havn't tried tow-eye covers yet but they're on my radar
    I've not tried a vacuum method as I seem to get on well with the fibreglassing even though it's hugely smelly, messy and long-winded.

    These are the products I use for my molding DSC_0502.jpg and they seem to work pretty well.

    How did you get tape lines on the tow-eye cover? Did you not start with a completely smooth surface?

    I'm not farmiliar with any other forms of producing carbon parts so I can't really advise about the vacuum method.

  6. #46

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    Hi Alex

    Got ridges as I used the tape we use for the hot bonder thermocouples, nothing sticks to it. Could not use the tigerflor due to shape. Used glass fibre to create the mould but now just need to sand these lines out but might try again using your wax as there will be no lines.

    The vacuum bag method is what we teach for repairs, the vacuum draws out the excess fluid and air bubbles and is absorbed by a a material placed in (like a sponge/cotton wool material). Only drama is achieving the vacuum and then getting the fibre to remain on the mould whilst all inside a bag.

    Do you just stippling method or make up loads of layers like pre-preg? Do you just put a layer of resin over top to get the nice finish you got with the engine covers?

    Cheers
    Marc

  7. #47

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    Exactly that.
    Strips of glass fibre matting brushed with the resin to form a skin, then repeat the process. The mold I did for the engine covers uses 2 layers, whereas the wings have 3 for a bit more strength.
    Then use filler to fill any air pockets, sand smooth and 3 - 4 layers of release wax followed by the PVA releasing agent.

    I sand the finished CF to get a good key and add a layer of resin to get a smooth top coat.

    The wings finished top coat this time will be aerosol laquer though to blend with the bodywork nicely.

  8. #48

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    Due to the time and lack of money coming up to Christmas, this project has gone on hold.

    I will be picking it up in the new year, so watch this space....


  9. #49
    666damned's Avatar

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    Coming along nicely m8......looking forward to seeing your first ones in early spring...:-) next yr
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gingerfish View Post
    bit more..............

    Attachment 64111Attachment 64112

    Wax and PVA applied, now for the nasty bit!.......

    Attachment 64113Attachment 64114
    i think you need to look at gel coat , any resin you put to them moulds WILL KEY IN ,if you have to cut or fill in your mouldings start again as every part you do from them moulds will transfer , you will also need to put flanges to all your moulding to bolt them together and you will need a flange to put your vac bag to

    if you want to chat about your moulds we can have a chat on the phone i will help you out
    Last edited by peter m; 22-12-2013 at 05:56 PM.

  11. #51
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    Vents like I did for my VR2, but then made in lightweight material would be very tempting (and probably less prone to get fracture line crack around the top area of the s-max vent...)!
    http://www.galant-fans.nl/forum/down...view/image.jpg
    http://www.galant-fans.nl/forum/down.../vr2-vents.jpg

    And the centre console looks familiar too! Here's his LHD brother (I did it in white faux leather):
    http://www.galant-fans.nl/forum/down...r-black-03.JPG
    Last edited by MarkSanne; 22-12-2013 at 11:03 PM.

  12. #52
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    looks good, moulding something in carbon is something else, the moulding is were all the money goes, when i make a moulding the finish i want in a part has to be in the plug i will not mould it till the part looks like new even though that part goes in the bin , the flanges are in place so when you take the part from the mould you do not brake the part , if you are going to do vac formed carbon you need a flange on every edge of the part so you can put a sealing tape and a bag to the moulding , the resin you are useing are not a grade a resin and is no good for moulding it will bond, you dont have a gel coat on your mould this is what stops parts sticking , you need to look at getting gels and resins some were close to you , when i was buying carbon last it was £23 meter and the resin was £120 for five LT , the cost of making parts like this is nuts i worked it out just to make the part would cost me £150 per wing so i did not do them , and trust me i have made wing mouldings for the last ten years and i have vac formed kevlar wings for rallycars ,
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by peter m; 23-12-2013 at 01:00 AM.

  13. #53
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    the white wings are off a nissan s12 driftcar

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