Well...

[scott.mohekey]

You don't need to do anywhere near as much as that. You only need to remove enough suspension arms that you can pull the axle out of the hub carrier.

[Badger_01]

Hmm okay cheers guys. Anyone got a spare diff lying around? Lol

[wintertidenz]

Jeremy will have one soon - a spare AYC one.

[scott.mohekey]

I've got an Ayc one as well. It just needs to be pulled out of the car.

[unclepaulie]

you get awd magnas/diamantes over in NZ? might pay to have a looksee under the ass end of one of them. maybe spin one wheel and note the direction the other wheel spins

[Adam.Findlay]

Yep.

+1, yep scotts right, you need axles too

Lol Quinton is selling some non AYC diffs and axle sets for $650

rip off dont bother with Q's stuff I have paid around $200 for diffs with axles twice now. then factor in another 50-100 bucks to replace all the CV boots, straps and clean and re-grease them before you put it in.
+ axle seals too if the ones on the diff are a bit sad looking.

Hmmm I have no idea on how to remove the rear diff, I read the guide but it doesn't help me much as I have no idea on what bits are what lol, pictures would be handy.

Should I just start unbolting everything and hope for the best? Haha

Its not hard, just be methodical and keep track of where each bolt goes

this is how I do it with what tools to use

1- jack up ass end of car and remove wheels
2- remove the split pin from the hub nuts and then the hub nuts themselves (32mm socket) also remove the brake caliper from the hub so when you swing the hub away to get the axle out you don't pull on the brake line (2 x 14mm bolts on the back of the caliper)
3- remove the AYC lines from the back of the diff and drain the oils, (14mm or 12mm line spanner for the ayc lines and 24mm socket for the oil drain. ** the oil from the AYC resovoir may come out of the lines so have a container ready to catch it**
4- remove the 4 12mm nuts and bolts holding the driveshaft universal joint onto the diff front flange (2 x 12mm spanners)
5- Undo the 17mm bolt and nut on the very top of the hub carrier, the one that goes to the upper wishbone arm. also undo the two 17mm bolts & nuts on the bottom of the hub (17mm socket w' breaker bar and 17mm spanner) **leave the ball joint from the square arm attached as its a bastard to pop out of the hub and then even more of a prick to get back in as you have to load up the taper to stop the joint just spinning around when trying to tighten it back up again later**
6- now the hub is loose it will piviot out around that ball joint which you have left attached, this will let you (with a bit of jimmying around) get the axle out of the hub. If the axle sticks in the hub from rust or similar put the hub nut on but backwards so you have a nice large surface to smack with a hammer (so you don't f*ck the threads on the axles if you plan to reuse them and hit them with a soft faced hammer.
7- get a pry bar and pop the axle out of the diff
8- repeat steps 5-7 for the other side of the car
9- now the axles, oils, AYC lines and drive shaft are disconnected there are 6 17mm bolts at the front of the diff which need to be undone, the top one on the passenger side of the car can be a right bastard as it fouls on the fuel tank sheild so I usually crack that one first and wind it out until it hits the sheild, and then undo the rest and come back to it last once the diff has sagged A bit.
10- get a big 22mm spanner and undo the two bolts that go through the back of the subframe into the back of the diff, this are quite difficult to get to because of the sway bar in the way, and depending what kind of exhaust you have depends on the kind of obstruction here too.
11- Ta-Da!! your diff it out.. try not to drop it on your face, that hurts!

and you are going to hate me for this but installation is reverse of removal!, if you get an open diff I'd pull out all of the ayc pump and resovior and the AYC fuses as its no use anymore, and the open diffs are much easier to put back in as they are lighter, less bulky and dont require 2 types of oil and don't need to be bled.
any more Questions feel free to give me a buzz on the phone if you still have my number, Ive replaced a few diffs over the years

I've got an Ayc one as well. It just needs to be pulled out of the car.

ha hurry up and get rid of that lump! and put your LSD in!!

[Badger_01]

Cool, cheers for that.

This will be an open diff right? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=634963233 and for $400. Reckon thats a fair price?

[Badger_01]

you get awd magnas/diamantes over in NZ? might pay to have a looksee under the ass end of one of them. maybe spin one wheel and note the direction the other wheel spins

We get diamantes, but I have no idea if they are awd

[Adam.Findlay]

Cool, cheers for that.

This will be an open diff right? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=634963233 and for $400. Reckon thats a fair price?

yep will be open diff.
400 isnt too bad for a diff and axles when you are desperate for one as you obvioulsy dont have the time to wait around for a good deal.
Good luck swapping the diffs out!

I think the AWD magnas (diamanties) are only austrailia, there may be some kicking about in NZ but Ive never seen one. and @unclepaulie arent the magna rear lsds viscous anyway?
viscous rear diffs are pretty yuck when your throwing around a fair bit of weight with them, unless you shim them up real tight and thats not legal here in NZ

[Kenneth]

There are plenty of AWD Diamanties hanging about, they are almost the same. My current diff is from one. Problem is that you still need the axles from a Galant/Legnum as well as the drive shaft flange. Also, the Diamante has a slightly different rear subframe so the mounts require (like the SAYC) 10mm spacers on the rear to stop it destroying the rubber mount.

All the Diamante rear diffs I have seen are open. Use the same internals though, so easy enough to put an Evo LSD cartridge in them.

[Badger_01]

yep will be open diff.
400 isnt too bad for a diff and axles when you are desperate for one as you obvioulsy dont have the time to wait around for a good deal.
Good luck swapping the diffs out!

Cool might hit them up if nothing comes up

[Adam.Findlay]

There are plenty of AWD Diamanties hanging about, they are almost the same. My current diff is from one. Problem is that you still need the axles from a Galant/Legnum as well as the drive shaft flange. Also, the Diamante has a slightly different rear subframe so the mounts require (like the SAYC) 10mm spacers on the rear to stop it destroying the rubber mount.

All the Diamante rear diffs I have seen are open. Use the same internals though, so easy enough to put an Evo LSD cartridge in them.

oh true. Like I said I had never seen one in in NZ but I dont really look out for them either
If you need the axles from a legnum/galant anyway it would be alot easier just to get the diff as well.

I know the guys on oz vr4 have used magna/diamante rear lsds before but Im sure they are viscous.

[Badger_01]

How about this? http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=635587216

Guy says $195 for the diff and axles

[Gly]

its gonna cost approx 120 for the bits from pick-a-part,

you prob wont find a cheaper deal than that.

[scott.mohekey]

Yeah, take it.

[Adam.Findlay]

How about this? http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=635587216

Guy says $195 for the diff and axles

yep thats a good price!

[Badger_01]

its gonna cost approx 120 for the bits from pick-a-part, you prob wont find a cheaper deal than that.

Yeah, take it.

yep thats a good price!

Sweet I'll do it

[Badger_01]

Oh and what oil should I get for the open diff?

[scott.mohekey]

Bananas!

Na, I'm not sure, but I think its the same as the oil you use in your gear box.

[Gly]

Bananas!

Na, I'm not sure, but I think its the same as the oil you use in your gear box.

same oil as transfer box.

any evo 1-9 mech lsd will fit.