GL-5 spec. 75W-90
and when you get an lsd get use GL-5 LS90
Originally Posted by scott.mohekey
Bananas!
Na, I'm not sure, but I think its the same as the oil you use in your gear box.Lol sweet cheers for that
Manual Super #143/283
Having trouble with getting the hubs off the axles, would it be easier if I took the bolt holding the shock off? Also smacked it around and jiggled it about and it felt like there was more holding it on lol. Any tips or tricks for this?
Its not hard, just be methodical and keep track of where each bolt goes
this is how I do it with what tools to use
1- jack up ass end of car and remove wheels
2- remove the split pin from the hub nuts and then the hub nuts themselves (32mm socket) also remove the brake caliper from the hub so when you swing the hub away to get the axle out you don't pull on the brake line (2 x 14mm bolts on the back of the caliper)
3- remove the AYC lines from the back of the diff and drain the oils, (14mm or 12mm line spanner for the ayc lines and 24mm socket for the oil drain. ** the oil from the AYC resovoir may come out of the lines so have a container ready to catch it**
4- remove the 4 12mm nuts and bolts holding the driveshaft universal joint onto the diff front flange (2 x 12mm spanners)
5- Undo the 17mm bolt and nut on the very top of the hub carrier, the one that goes to the upper wishbone arm. also undo the two 17mm bolts & nuts on the bottom of the hub (17mm socket w' breaker bar and 17mm spanner) **leave the ball joint from the square arm attached as its a bastard to pop out of the hub and then even more of a prick to get back in as you have to load up the taper to stop the joint just spinning around when trying to tighten it back up again later**
6- now the hub is loose it will piviot out around that ball joint which you have left attached, this will let you (with a bit of jimmying around) get the axle out of the hub. If the axle sticks in the hub from rust or similar put the hub nut on but backwards so you have a nice large surface to smack with a hammer (so you don't f*ck the threads on the axles if you plan to reuse them and hit them with a soft faced hammer.
7- get a pry bar and pop the axle out of the diff
8- repeat steps 5-7 for the other side of the car
9- now the axles, oils, AYC lines and drive shaft are disconnected there are 6 17mm bolts at the front of the diff which need to be undone, the top one on the passenger side of the car can be a right bastard as it fouls on the fuel tank sheild so I usually crack that one first and wind it out until it hits the sheild, and then undo the rest and come back to it last once the diff has sagged A bit.
10- get a big 22mm spanner and undo the two bolts that go through the back of the subframe into the back of the diff, this are quite difficult to get to because of the sway bar in the way, and depending what kind of exhaust you have depends on the kind of obstruction here too.
11- Ta-Da!! your diff it out.. try not to drop it on your face, that hurts!
and you are going to hate me for this but installation is reverse of removal!, if you get an open diff I'd pull out all of the ayc pump and resovior and the AYC fuses as its no use anymore, and the open diffs are much easier to put back in as they are lighter, less bulky and dont require 2 types of oil and don't need to be bled.
any more Questions feel free to give me a buzz on the phone if you still have my number, Ive replaced a few diffs over the years
You typically need a breaker bar with an extension, or a 3/4" drive breaker bar so you can put some torque behind it.
A rattle gun will also work if you have a heavy duty one.
The torque specs on the axle nuts will be about 230nm.
However if you already have the nut undone, tilt it to the side and thread the nut back on a bit, then whack it with a rubber mallet - it should move it.
Done this, smacked it out a bit but it wont go all the way out
get something heavy, heavier the better, to a point, i used a brake disc that i had replaced with new one the day before, worked a treat, i did have something between the disc and shaft, got it out in a couple hits instead of smacking the crack out of it with something lighter
SO pretty much I should just smack it till it comes out? lol
Get the hub on a bit of an angle and give it a good hard smack. It should just pop out. It may help if you disconnect the suspension to get that extra angle on it. . Just make sure you don't damage the ABS sensor when the driveshaft comes out.
I have to admit that last time I did it I really smashed it hard to get it to pop out - IIRC it was still bolted in at the top and side to give some anchoring to the hub.
Got them out. Now having a **** load of trouble with the 17mm top bolt on the passenger side of the car, the bolt has rounded a bit and I broke a 17mm spanner on it (probably why its rounded a bit) Now this is the only bolt left to get out. Any way to get it out?
Try and tighten it slightly to break the 'seal' then undo. Also try a WD40 or CRC, and a toothbrush to clean the threads up first.
If all else fails, grind a slot in the nut if it's accessible and get a chisel or wedge in there with a hammer to force it open. Or just cut the bolt off, remove the rest of the bolt and replace it.
Still cant get it off, such a pain in the ****ing ass. Im so pissed off. Only bloody bolt to get off and it wont ****ing budge
Which bolt is it? Can you take a picture?
And have you tried a breaker bar? Spanners are useless on most bolts unless you're just re-tightening.
sorry I forgot about the shock bolt. yes take that 17mm bolt out and then push the shock off the peg and then swing the hub away
Its the one adam said would be a right bastard to get out since it fouls on the fuel tank shield.
I've loosened the bracket so the diff is hanging down. The bolt is now completely ****ed, I've tried so many different things to try get it out. Its just a complete no go and it ****s me off since its the last ****ing bolt to get out
So you have rounded it off?
if so just cut it / grind the head off it. Im sure Ill have a spare bolt you can have to replace it with.
if it not rounded off just get the ring end of a spanner on it and then kick the shi*t out of it to loosen it. as you can't get a socket and breaker bar in there because of that fuel tank heat sheild
The bolt is pretty ****ed. Im thinking of dropping the subframe so I can get the bracket bolt off. The open diff came with the brackets and bolts
dropping the subframe is a big job. and putting it back in without a full 2 post hoist and tranny jack is near impossible by yourself, I dont reccomend it.
Id just cut that one bolt to get the old diff out then replace it with one of the ones that came with the new diff
Hmm okay, so the diff is hanging down and the bolt is right next/kinda under the fuel tank, will the shield protect it enough from sparks?
The fuel tank is plastic IIRC. Just be careful and you should be fine.
so is the bolt undone? or still tight?? i know the bolt, and i shortened mine before refitting it,
are all the other bolts out or still done up at this stage?
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