You could always invent a device that generates a localized field of altered physics.
You should be able to tune the suspension to remove understeer. Understeer is considered safer and therefore cars from factory tend to be setup more that way, if popular wisdom is to be believed.
Also consider that your car is heavier in the front than in the rear. If you go into a corner at any speed, the force applied to the front is more force trying to push the front off the road than the rear. This will increase the prevalence of understeer.
So if you even up the weight distribution, you should suffer less understeer.
fair point, there is a lot of weight upfront in the car especially when i get into the drivers seat.
but it would be nice to gear box in the bac.
so if weight distribution is a factor, and you can't reduce the weight at the front, is it then benificial to increase the weight at the back.
so instead of pushing a 1700Kg car into a corner that is nose heavy, you push a car that has 50/50 weight distribution but weighs overall 2000kg.
is there any benefit to increasing the over all weight to achieve 50/50 distribution.
Bye for Now!
Overall weight will affect things like acceleration and braking. Better to be light than heavy.
I have to ask what you want your car for though. If you want to race around, light and nimble. If you want a cruiser that can accelerate nicely and do the odd track day and corner OK, then by all means increase overall weight (and add sound deadening etc)
At least things like battery to the boot will get a few KG moved, then you can think about aluminium front subframes, floating disks with alloy hats and alloy calipers (these can save a surprising amount of weight). Bonnet can save some also.
After that, things start getting a bit harder, how far do you want to go?
As stated in the first post,
this is another one of my what if, is it possible threads.
it is just interest as to what is possible and what is not without spending tens of thousands pounds. i know anything is possible if you through enough money at it and give it to someone else to do, but that is not my style. i like to everthing for myself so i understand it properly.
I've got one question for you in known, is there any way that I can check how weight balance looks like on my car at home? or where to go to ??
I asking as this thread just turn in the way that I was thinking for long time, ie, shift the weight from front to the back to get better balance. In my case I take a quite few kg off the front (manual conv, cf bonnet, tiny battery, lightweight flywheel) and add at least 50-60kg at the back (LPG tank/valve, big heavy sub and amp).
Interesting thing i just read there is the subframe, is not FL have alloy sub frame and pfl steel ? or i got this mix up with n/a Galant?
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Find someone, a racer, with corner weight scales...Originally Posted by adaxo
As far as I know, all 8th gen vr4s have a cast front subframe.
We did a dyno day years ago where the garage could offer corner weight setup. I can't currently remember who it was though. It was near the m25 if I remember correctly.
i think it is the ST and ST-R that have the alloy front subframe, or it could be the n/a V6 as well. i can't remember.
but i was under the same impression as nick that all vr4 had the steel subframe.
i never found out why it was though, i had assumed it was due to the alloy one not being strong enough to handle the power/torque of the 6a13TT engine.
but this was just a guess.
the n/a V6 subframe is MR223582
the vr4 subframe is MR297541
i don't know if these are interchangable or not
it does not look like it, as the one in the VR4 has a large cut out for the transmission tunnel for the prop shaft/transfer case which the n/a V6 does not have and so the subframe for that does not have the big cut out in it.
but the 4wd ST-R will need to have a subframe of the same shape as the VR4 due to the space required for the transfer case and prop shaft.
but i can't check this as i don't have a chassis number for an ST-R.
if some has one i will check it.
Last edited by Davezj; 17-09-2013 at 10:58 PM.
The ST-R/ST25 front subframe is an alloy casting of the same shape as the VR4 one. I have a couple lying around.
nice to know, Thanks
do you have a chassis number of an ST-R so i can do comparision in the future.
i think ST-R's are few and far between in the UK due to the fact you can import a VR4 easily, so i don't think many would go to the both of import an ST-R. plus the N/A V6 is plentiful as well.
so the chances of getting an ST-R over here is unlikely.
I have an ST-25 chassis number at home. Largely the same except for 4 stud hubs and 4 speed auto.
if you could post it up or pm the chassis number it would much appreciated but there is no rush.
dave, if you just type in a model code, it'll list every thing.
for ec5w you get subframes
ec5w subframe.jpg
Same mounting points, same basic shape but actually there is a fair difference in the subframes. The alloy one has more meat in a number of places, all necessary to maintain the strength with an otherwise weaker material.
I don't do masses of miles in my car, but I have been running an alloy subframe for roughly 3 years now.
Yeah, sorry. I was being a bit too general there.
good point i had forgotten that methed of checking the part numbers
what about using a different gear ratio in the ear end,for e.g 4.0 rear diff from the skyline....
You would destroy the transfer boxes viscous coupling and possibly the centre diff in the gearbox too.
1- using a lower 4.0 instead of the stock 3.3 ratio diff in the rear will mean that the rear wheels will want to spin SLOWER than the fronts. in effect having the opposite effect
2- having different ratio diffs does not change the torque split given by the centre diff, the center lsd will always try and maintain 50:50. all you will acheive by having 2 different diff ratios will be the front wheels fighting the back wheels via the center lsd causing the centre lsd to fail. and once the center lsd has failed (if it does not completly destroy the transfer case) the speed difference between front and rear outputs will put excessive load onto the center diff which will most likely cause that to fail.
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