Blown gearbox! Help req' pls

[Legnum_oz]

Hey everybody... Long story short but my gearbox has blown to smithereens and gear has locked up in D, R & N. How and what should I do to get my car to roll again so I can push into the garage??

I'm still new to AWD systems so I'm not sure what is required?? I'm assuming somewhere along the lines of I bolting the tail shaft etc??

Harder than it seems perhaps??!

[foxdie]

Hi Kenny,

Sorry to hear your box has gone. They're a bit awkward when they do, you probably are looking at removing the tail shaft, that way the transfer case will let the front spin and the rear diff won't have any obstruction. Should also make towing easier as well (although I wouldn't tow it faster than 40 km/h in that state, resistance in the transfer case may try and turn the gearbox, best to flat bed it).

I believe this to be true, if not someone will correct me; There should be 4 nuts and bolts on the shaft roughly where the Cat (or decat pipe) sits, undo those and then you can pull the rear half of the shaft down and then towards the front of the car with a bit of welly to remove. At this point there may be some oil spill out of the rear diff so you'll need to plug it up with something absorbent but not contaminated (a clean towel will do).

Ps. there are some good guides in the members section for replacing the autobox, if you decide to become a full member, you'll be able to access the guide here; http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthr...to-box-removal

Kind regards,
Jason

[Davezj]

right idea mate but i think it is the other end.
if you undo the 4 bolts in the propshaft near where the CAT would be, it is the front part of the prop shaft that will be able to be removed from the back of transfer case. it will diconnent the rear and allow it to turn indipendantly.
but i am not sure if the front wheel will go round is the gear box is trashed and locked up.
and yes oil should spill out of the hole.

[Legnum_oz]

Thanks guys. Now to find a way to free up the front wheels!

[Davezj]

pull the front drive shafts out of the gearbox and wire them up so they can still turn.

take out the bolt on the car side of the lower straight suspension arm. this will allow you to pull the bottom of the wheel hub away from the car just enough to get the drive shaft out of the grear box, wire it up out of the way so it is not dragging on the ground nd is still able to rotate (which is why a say wire it up) then put the suspension arm back in place and put bolt back in, job done.

[lathiat]

If you disconnect the prop shaft it should roll as the center differential will free wheel on the rear and let the front spins... however it wont' necessarily be super easy to push due to the hydrdaulic front-rear coupling.

[Legnum_oz]

All done guys. I just removed the front half of the prop shaft and the passenger side d/shaft. hardest part was trying to push up a incline driveway!!

All these had to come out anyway as I am removing the g/box and transfer case.

Now to find an easy way to remove the 3 top transfer case bolts. This is where I stopped yesterday... tbc!

[Nick Mann]

Lots of assorted extension bars. 3/8" drive with a universal joint. Good luck!

[SEAN-NZ]

for the t case, i found 2 bolts not to difficult, the third brought on a lot of swearing, uni joint didnt help, using an extension you can get the socket on, but it was very tight when i did it, i think it was the an oil or water line for the rear turbo that made it tight

[Legnum_oz]

Not looking forward to this! Just by looking at it gives my a headaches!

Any chance I could just take out the g/box + t/fer case as one?? I still need to put new seals etc for the TC anyway. So it "might" be easier than trying to get to 3 pain the ass bolts.

[SEAN-NZ]

how strong are you? the transfer case is atleast 20kg, think more like 25, dont know about the auto gearboxes, but the manuals are very heavy, i think about 60kg

[Legnum_oz]

I'm a twig so ill separate the removal for ease.

Bolts are out, it was much easier than expected.

Here's my 2cents worth-

Attach the socket only first to the bolt from the top of the engine. This makes it easier to attach the socket to the head.

Then crawl under the car from the passenger side so you are looking up at the drivers side d/shaft.

I'll start with the bolt closest to the centre of the transfer case-

Grab a 200mm extension bar and attach to the socket. Make sure the extension goes UNDER the oil feed line (metal tubing with a flex section)

Attach the ratchet to the extension

Use a pry bar and rest on the housing so you rest the extension on the pry bar for leverage. This is the most difficult one because you are pushing with the pry with one hand and pulling with the other for the ratchet. I didn't use a breaker bar just a piece of pipe slide over the ratche handle.
image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
See pics for a visual for the above. For the photos I removed the pipe (impossible to do without a third hand!)

[Legnum_oz]

Second bolt
I used the 200mm extension plus a short 75mm extension.

First bolt (outside of transfer case)
I used only a 75mm extention. Hardest part with this is the limited room to crank the ratchet or breaker bar but eventually cracked the bolt.

In the end it hasn't too bad, just a matter of playing around with extention bars etc, which I've hopefully eliminate for those needing this info.

[Legnum_oz]

Sorry for the bolt closest to the middle of the transfer case I used a 200mm plus a 75mm

[Davezj]

hope you read the auto box removal article in the library.
you need to remove the output shaft in the gear box out the passenger side. the output shaft is visible once the pasenger drive shaft is removed.
this must come out before the transfer box is unbolted off the gear box, otherwise it can lock inplace when you try and remove it. if you started to remove the transfer case with the output shaft still in place you will have top push the tansfer case back on and put a bolt back it to hold it while you tap out the output shaft.
either get a slide hammer and pull the shaft out or remove the drivers side drive shaft and tap it a couple of time to pop the retaining clip out of its groove from the drivers side of the transfer box with some extention bars or similar. so the output shaft pops out of the passenger side.

[Davezj]

I'm a twig so ill separate the removal for ease.

Bolts are out, it was much easier than expected.

Here's my 2cents worth-

Attach the socket only first to the bolt from the top of the engine. This makes it easier to attach the socket to the head.

Then crawl under the car from the passenger side so you are looking up at the drivers side d/shaft.

I'll start with the bolt closest to the centre of the transfer case-

Grab a 200mm extension bar and attach to the socket. Make sure the extension goes UNDER the old feed line (metal tubing with a flex section)

Attach the ratchet to the extension

Use a pry bar and rest on the housing so you rest the extension on the pry bar for leverage. This is the most difficult one because you are pushing with the pry with one hand and pulling with the other for the ratchet. I didn't use a breaker bar just a piece of pipe slide over the ratche handle.
image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
See pics for a visual for the above. For the photos I removed the pipe (impossible to do without a third hand!)

from the pics it does not loock like you undoing the correct bolts. you need to read this article before going any further. it looks like you are splitting the transfer case rather than removing the transfer case from the auto box.
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthr...to-box-removal

[Legnum_oz]

Yeah I made sure of this, made my own slide hammer using a piece of galv pipe I had laying around. I didn't like the idea of forcing the transfer case from the gearbox using bolts to force the two apart.

hope you read the auto box removal article in the library.
you need to remove the output shaft in the gear box out the passenger side. the output shaft is visible once the pasenger drive shaft is removed.
this must come out before the transfer box is unbolted off the gear box, otherwise it can lock inplace when you try and remove it. if you started to remove the transfer case with the output shaft still in place you will have top push the tansfer case back on and put a bolt back it to hold it while you tap out the output shaft.
either get a slide hammer and pull the shaft out or remove the drivers side drive shaft and tap it a couple of time to pop the retaining clip out of its groove from the drivers side of the transfer box with some extention bars or similar. so the output shaft pops out of the passenger side.

[Legnum_oz]

The pics aren't in the correct orientation for some reason! The first needs to be turned 180deg and 90deg clockwise for the remaining two. They were definitely the correct bolts, only showing the removal for the bolt closest to the middle.

from the pics it does not loock like you undoing the correct bolts. you need to read this article before going any further. it looks like you are splitting the transfer case rather than removing the transfer case from the auto box.
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthr...to-box-removal

[Davezj]

just thought i would check to make sure, i did not want you to start taking the transfer case apart for no reason.
the guide is good and helpful though.

[Legnum_oz]

Yeah the guides are great although it doesn't mention removing the output shaft first, it only mentions to break the two apart using a pry bar or bolts though the g/box housing to force the two apart. Although this method probably works but I read up about this somewhere else and thought it would be easier to pull the shaft out first.