wideband o2 sensor - which one can you recommend?

[Davezj]

Yep the MTX-L, gone through the guide just the usb lead is just easier to get to as it's in the glove box :-)

if it is easier to calibrate the sensor with the software then calibrate it with the software just connect a laptop start the software click the calibrate button.
you can do it either way.
what ever is easier for you.

[Nick Mann]

Or just buy a plx which doesn't need recalibration all the time!

[hbkuk1]

I replaced my aem with a Plx dm6 very pleased with it touch screen is great

[swinks]

Have the same thoughts when installing mine but screwed wideband where narrow band was and its all good for good few years now, nothing burnout.

It's all because in Legnums location of narrowband is perfect for use wideband instead. It doesn't mean that this applies to all vehicles. General rule is: locate wideband 70-100cm from turbine exit, otherwise you will damage sensor. In vr4 that's the location of narrowband. For example in Evo you have narrowband located 10cm from turbo, hence separate bung is a "must-do".

[Tarps87]

if it is easier to calibrate the sensor with the software then calibrate it with the software just connect a laptop start the software click the calibrate button.
you can do it either way.
what ever is easier for you.

After reading the manual I made the assumption there wasn't a software option, will try using it next time.

Or just buy a plx which doesn't need recalibration all the time!

Is it possible to hook a plx up to the universal trip computer

[Nick Mann]

I have no idea. It has emulated narrow band and 0-5v wideband outputs but it is not directly loggable via usb.

[Piers1989]

Sensor is fitted and working.

Did a fresh calibration as the garage was uncertain if they cleared it when working on it (car had been parked overnight circa 15 hours).

Seemed a bit lumpy when it was cold and warming up compared to normal driving - that said having disconnected the ECU I assume any adaption values are gone and this could account for it perhaps?
What sort of AFR should I be seeing on idle when cold / warm and how much variance should I expect on 14.7 when under load?

One thing that has also just started - the "battery" light (alternator usually I believe) just started coming on when idling or at low RPM. I checked the belt and it still looks fine. Is this just the alternator going or could it be related to anything with the electrics here?

[galantnight]

Is it idling at the right revs??
If you raise the revs a little does it stop and how low are the revs ??

[Piers1989]

Is it idling at the right revs??
If you raise the revs a little does it stop and how low are the revs ??

It was idling high cold - around 1300rpm but for longer than usual.
In gear stationary it was idling around 500rpm and out of dear around 700rpm so I think thats ok?

The Battery light doesn't go out till like 1.7k rpm is held for a second and it then drops back down to idle and comes back on.

[Piers1989]

It was idling high cold - around 1300rpm but for longer than usual.
In gear stationary it was idling around 500rpm and out of dear around 700rpm so I think thats ok?

The Battery light doesn't go out till like 1.7k rpm is held for a second and it then drops back down to idle and comes back on.

Come home from work and Battery light on almost the whole way regardless of revs this time.
Went off four about 2 seconds randomly and came back on despite revving up.

Should I make a new thread? I did a quick search and other than check fuses didn't see much else!

[galantnight]

It was idling high cold - around 1300rpm but for longer than usual.
In gear stationary it was idling around 500rpm and out of dear around 700rpm so I think thats ok?

The Battery light doesn't go out till like 1.7k rpm is held for a second and it then drops back down to idle and comes back on.

Maybe take it to someone to test looks like alternator is on it's way out sorry

[Nick Mann]

I'd be checking the alternator but keeping in mind that the wiring has just been played with.

You want to see the afr dropping on load to mid 11's and rising off the scale on overrun.

[Piers1989]

I'd be checking the alternator but keeping in mind that the wiring has just been played with.

You want to see the afr dropping on load to mid 11's and rising off the scale on overrun.

That's what I was thinking Nick. That said I reused existing wiring that I checked with a multimeter to confirm on with ignition and good ground. This has been in for the last 2 days no issue.

The garage disconnected the battery, unplugged the ecu, put spade connectors on the existing lambda wiring and connected the output on the new wideband with another interchangeable spade connector to the ecu. Battery was then reconnected and it was working for them and when I initially picked it up.

Is a striking coincidence tho!

I could disconnect the power to the gague and disconnect the lambda completely for diagnosis? Is it OK to test the car in this way?

I have a car full of stuff for the sound system upgrade so sudden acceleration is something I'm avoiding at the moment. I'll do some pulls when I'm happy the cars OK and check what readings we get.

Thanks

[Nick Mann]

If you have a multimeter then check voltages on the battery. You should be seeing around 12.7v with the ignition off and around 14.3v with the engine running.

[Piers1989]

If you have a multimeter then check voltages on the battery. You should be seeing around 12.7v with the ignition off and around 14.3v with the engine running.

Unfortunately not!

Around 12V ignition off (after driving it for about 45 mins yesterday bare in mind), with engine running around 11.4v regardless of RPM.

[Davezj]

as stated before did this battery issue only start immediately after you fitted the Wideband?

disconnect the wide band gauge and test battery change again.

i would have thought if you had the engine running for 45min and the alternator was not charging the battery then you would have drained the battery completely in that time. or at least below 11.4V
so the alternator must be charging the battery.
maybe it is just the output regulator on the alternator is under changing the battery volt wise.

[Piers1989]

as stated before did this battery issue only start immediately after you fitted the Wideband?

disconnect the wide band gauge and test battery change again.

i would have thought if you had the engine running for 45min and the alternator was not charging the battery then you would have drained the battery completely in that time. or at least below 11.4V
so the alternator must be charging the battery.
maybe it is just the output regulator on the alternator is under changing the battery volt wise.

The battery is relatively new (last year I think) and I didnt have any accessories on so I guess there isn't that much load otherwise?

I did try disconnecting the wideband and it did not have an effect
Bare in mind it had been connected for 2 days prior just without the sensor and it hadn't been causing a drain or any other noticeable issues.

The garage has the car now to do some more testing but they did check the voltages too and concurred that the alternator isn't outputting correctly.
If it is the voltage regulator I believe I can have it repaired, but depending on the price of one I can get from here I may just take the risk and straight swap if they confirm it's causing the problem as I want the car back for mothers day if possible!

[swinks]

Have they welded in o2 bung to exhaust? Just checking if some silly error didn't occur like not disconnecting battery prior to welding in vehicle, etc.

[Piers1989]

Have they welded in o2 bung to exhaust? Just checking if some silly error didn't occur like not disconnecting battery prior to welding in vehicle, etc.

Good thinking but they didn't adjust the bung at all. The custom pipe has a bung prewelded at a sensible location so it was just a straight swap.

Also they did disconnect the battery.

[Davezj]

just old age/bad luck that alternator has failed just after fitting the wideband gauge.