camber kit,will this work?

[rajvr497]

hi guys,can someone tell me if this front/rear camber kit works in the vr4?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ECLIPSE-TALO...1b6a4a&vxp=mtr

[CANDEE]

Thats pretty much the kits that everyone uses to adjust the camber on the cars.

[rajvr497]

thanks bro,my car is cutting tires very bad,need that kit like yesterday.

[Davezj]

have you tried rolling you arches, or getting someone to do it.

[rajvr497]

i am going to do that and camber front and rear properly......

[Piers1989]

Just to necro another thread - that item isn't available any more.

Are these ok?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Avenger-...VXfqYM&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sebring-Aven...3D291813159976

[Colin Wiltshire]

Ask @Pugme I think he had to do custom parts

[Piers1989]

Ask @Pugme I think he had to do custom parts

I read through a thread about that, but I believe it was so he could get MORE negative camber for the stance of the car.

After lowering my car on new coilovers, the front is out by -2.1 ~ -1.5 degrees and rear by -2.38~-3.15. I just want to put them back to stock and have normal vertical wheels.
The kit things I linked I believe allow up to +3 on the front and rear.

[Nick Mann]

Those kits look right to fit but i can't be sure. At least it isn't too expensive if they don't!

[Davezj]

Personally I would just put a stack of washers behind the factory top arm mount on the rear. I have done this before and it works just fine.

Sent from my MI 5s using Tapatalk

[Piers1989]

Personally I would just put a stack of washers behind the factory top arm mount on the rear. I have done this before and it works just fine.

Sent from my MI 5s using Tapatalk

As someone with little to no experience doing mechanical things, how difficult is this to do?

Here is my alignment printout.
Would I know how many washers to add without having the car re-checked on the Hunter Laser machine?
I Imagine Kwik Fit (the only local place with a Hunter machine) won't do any washers-behind-the-arm stuff for all their safety policies.

IMG_20170304_1902329.jpg

[Pugme]

On the rear yes, you can just use washers behind the fixing points of the upper arm

For the front you need the ingalls adjustable upper ball joints to correct camber properly

The rear upper arm is just a horseshoe shape piece of metal which has 2 bolts per side holding it to the car. They will be damn tight and access is a ballache so it helps to unholy the hub carrier so the arm can be pushed up and down to get better access.

But all in all its literally just undoing bolts and tightening them back up

[Louis]

You might need longer bolts depending on how many washers you use .

Also the link in the first post, these are ok for the rear, but don't use them on the front arms, I used them a long time back and they broke up after about 4 months!

For the fronts use the ingalls adjustable ball joints, get last a long time and have more than enough adjustment,

[Piers1989]

You might need longer bolts depending on how many washers you use .

Also the link in the first post, these are ok for the rear, but don't use them on the front arms, I used them a long time back and they broke up after about 4 months!

For the fronts use the ingalls adjustable ball joints, get last a long time and have more than enough adjustment,

Is this what you speak of?
https://www.ingallseng.com/35621-adj...all-joint.html

In relation to the washers on the rear, based on the alignment print out, am I likely to need a lot to correct 3 degrees of camber or is that relatively low?

I've only dropped the car around 20mm further than the standard ride height the Tein coilovers were set to from the factory.

On the same note, all 4 corners are rubbing the arches very significantly. I'm going to have to get them rolled or cut before I can really drive the car!
In another thread I necro'd recently it looked like normally the wheels tuck in just fine, is it possible my Enkei wheels have a larger offset than what the car really needs? I only have 235/45/17 tyres!
Measuring from the hub to the outside of the wheel is around 7.6cm if that information is useful?
IMG_20170304_1232555.jpgIMG_20170304_1232413.jpgIMG_20170304_1232345.jpgIMG_20170304_1233066.jpgIMG_20170304_1026100.jpgIMG_20170304_1233024.jpg

[Nick Mann]

Fronts should be close but probably okay with that combination. The rears will be close and probably not okay. With a facelift model that has plastic arch extensions the rear arches are slightly different and have a bit more clearance so that combination tends to be okay. With a prefacelift most people use a 225/45 17 to achieve the clearance.

[Louis]

That is the correct ball joint

Speaking from my own personal experience.
I have evo enkies they look exactly the same as yours.
I am on 235/45/17.
I don't know about teins being set by tein!!!!.
It looking at the photo, that is dropped much more than 20mm!!. It could be your car was not at factory height before fitting the teins, but that is definitely lowered more than 20mm. The vertical gap of tyre to arch on a standard car is more like 6cm. The standard gap at the front is usually higher than the rear, so if you drop all four. Orners by the same amount the rears would rub first.

Anyone else want to input on the standard ride height in their experience just to confirm.

Personally I would raise each corner by the same amount until you don't get rubbing on the arches, and see what it sits like.
It's a bit of a pain, but better to get it right while the gear is new and easy to adjust on the car.

Have a look at legnum images from Mitsubishi brochures and adverts on here and on line to see the standard height.

[Louis]

Don't use the parts in post 6 on this thread. The rubber on the fronts tears after about 4 months and the metal then breaks, not good, the rears aren't great either I think the washer method and longer bolts are safer on the rear.

I had a quick look and found a photo of a legnum from an old for sale add just to show the ride height ( you can also see bigger gap on front)
And also a brochure thread image.

https://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showth...egnum+brochure

https://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showth...egnum+brochure

[Piers1989]

That is the correct ball joint

Speaking from my own personal experience.
I have evo enkies they look exactly the same as yours.
I am on 235/45/17.
I don't know about teins being set by tein!!!!.
It looking at the photo, that is dropped much more than 20mm!!. It could be your car was not at factory height before fitting the teins, but that is definitely lowered more than 20mm. The vertical gap of tyre to arch on a standard car is more like 6cm. The standard gap at the front is usually higher than the rear, so if you drop all four. Orners by the same amount the rears would rub first.

Anyone else want to input on the standard ride height in their experience just to confirm.

Personally I would raise each corner by the same amount until you don't get rubbing on the arches, and see what it sits like.
It's a bit of a pain, but better to get it right while the gear is new and easy to adjust on the car.

Have a look at legnum images from Mitsubishi brochures and adverts on here and on line to see the standard height.

Thanks Louis.

Yes overall it's lower than 2cm - I'd guess 4-5cm below stock.
From Tein there was a little manual showing how the should be set from the factory specifically for this car, with instructions on lowering it. The car was a bit lower than the factory suspension then, but still very significant gaps front and rear.
I lowered it 2cm from this setting, there is still a lot more adjust range left on the coil for reference, so it's not at its limit.

The rears on the car I can't get my finger in, whereas the front I can - so yes the rears are closer.
Its probably 4mm of tyre that hits the arch though! If it was marginally further into the well - or the arches had less lip / pushed out it would be fine on the rear.
The fronts have over 1cm of clearance, but they stick out more and probably have a full cm or so of collision with the arch.

I won't be driving the car until that's sorted. I could raise it back up, but then I'd need to get it realigned again, then get the camber changed, then aligned again. I'd like it to be a little lower than it was after first fitting the coilovers too as there were still pretty big gaps!
I'll probably purchase the camber adjust ball joints, and an arch roller, then roll the arches and add some washers to the rear to correct the camber. Get the garage to fit the adjustable ball joints and then have it realigned.

Is there any general method to setting the rear camber by eye?
I'm sure my garage will be happy to put washers in there for me if I can't do it myself, but I'm not sure how to tell if its too little / too much!

[menno3x8g]

If you want to correct the camber on the rear with 3°, you can calculate the thickness of the washers you need.
- I took a PFL (front!) hub and measured the distance between the top and the centre of the axis: is was about 38cm.
- I provided a triangle calculator on the web with data and got nearly 2cm for the thickness of the washers.
Please note: I took a front hub, so measure the rear by yourself.
WP_20170305_001.jpg WP_20170305_002.jpg Naamloos-1.jpg

[adaxo]

Just my 2pence regarding rear adjustment with washer method, dead easy to do but BE CAREFUL WHEN DRIVING CAR FIRST TIME AFTER ADJUSTMENT it can kill you easy if you overdo it, rear end became very lively if you end up with positive camber, I sheet myself back in the days.