In cabin fuse number 9 (Door locks, door switch, ETACS)

[apeman69]

Hello old friends (and maybe some new ones). I'm still here... just about.

All this week I've been trying to trace an off-key drain from my battery.
If I leave the car unused for 1-2 days then the battery is flat. This has been on-going for a couple of months now and is starting to get on my nerves!
I've done the basics of checking battery voltage and that it doesn't drop when disconnected from the car; battery voltage when car is running etc. I'm sure the alternator and battery are good.

Next I moved on to checking for current drain. It's drawing 0.62A with the engine off (multimeter connected correctly, of course).


My starting point was possibly related faults I've known about which include:-

SORTED: Intermittent operation of the 'door open' light on the dash - all door switches removed, checked, WD40'd and now working peachy. Bonnet open switch fitted with the Toad AI606 removed, cleaned, rewired and working properly again. They mounted it in a lovely place that will always get drenched when it rains.

SORTED: Busted interior lights (dome lights) - this has been sorted by removing all of the crappy 'festoon' (probably original) bulbs in the driver's courtesy light, above rear doors, boot light. When I removed the first one the end fell off and what could only be described as brown dust flew out of it. This was the case with all the bulbs including the ones that were still, miraculously, working. Perhaps have a look at and change your own one day.
As I knew I already had a courtesy light out I started by checking all the door switches (the plunger switches that operate the interior lights when a door is open) by disconnecting each one in turn and checking the battery drain each time.
From this test I found the problem with the interior light bulbs degrading. When any door is open the drain raises about 0.1A. I assume this is because of the door switch operation.
When one particular door was open (interior lights would be on if battery was connected during the test) the battery drain went nuts: cycling up and down between 1A and 3-4A.
I just disconnected each element of this door's systems (door switch, Light switch unit, bulb) until I found that the bulb was at fault. It was still functioning and had a too-high resistance. Removal of the bulb brought the drain back to 0.62A with the door closed.

SORTED: Intermittent functioning of right indicator bulb in the dash (no fault with the actual indicators) - sorted by removing all the courtesy light bulbs. The one causing the fluctuating current draw was on the right hand side, same as the intermittently functioning indicator light in the dash.

SORTED: Incorrectly fitted headlight bulb/dodgy bent retaining clip (duh!)

SORTED, er... sort of: Rear passenger door has been locked shut for about 6 months. Got this thing open this afternoon after a bit of inspiration from an old thread by Wobble (many thanks Dave). My hands are now in 'just about usable' state. The central locking is working on this door, in that it clunks and clicks just like all the others. The lock mechanism itself seems goosed and, for now, the door card's off with the door locked until I can get a replacement lock unit. I had this a long time ago with the boot lock too! I disconnected the central locking power connector (and window switch) in this door and it had no effect on the current drain.


Concerning the battery drain, my initial thoughts were along the lines of "bleeping Toad AI606 alarm that Ebony & Ivory fitted" which has not yet been discounted for no other reason than E&I fitted it!

On removing the big 60A fuse which is bottom left in the engine bay fusebox the drain drops to 0.09A
Strangely, but not necessarily related, the two bolts holding this in place are 6mm & 8mm on mine and I think this is non-standard.
Clearly the problem is something on this circuit, which led me to the in-cabin fusebox.
My further investigations have found that when in-cabin fuse 9, listed in Kitty's fuse box thread as Door locks + door switch and ETACS, is removed then the drain drops to an acceptable 0.09A

So, in summary, I've got a 0.62A key-off drain which is pointing me to something connected to fuse 9 in the cabin.
Fuse 9 is listed on here as 'Door Locks + door switch and ETACS'.
Fuse 4 is listed as 'Radio/MMS + clock, remote locks'. Removing this fuse has no effect on the current drain.
Fuse 6 is listed as 'Wipers + ETACS, remote locks, washer motor'. Removing this fuse has no effect on the current drain.
What is the distinction between Door Locks on fuse 9 and remote locks on fuses 4 & 6 or am I being thick?

All the central locking is working as expected apart from the rear door with seems to have a busted lock so I'm on the verge of accepting it isn't the central locking per se.
All the 'door open' switches are functioning as expected (I'm assuming that the description of fuse 9 stating 'door switch' means the 'door open' switches that I have tested.
This leave me with only 'ETACS'. This has entries for fuse 9 and fuse 6 but removing fuse 6 doesn't make a difference to the current drain.

Is ETACS the white plastic box that appears to be clipped onto the back of the in-cabin fusebox and to remove it do you just unclip the top and bottom, pull or what?
Is there anything else connected to fuse 9 that I could look at?
Does anyone have any other ideas or suggestions because I've checked so many electrical items this week my head is spinning, my hair is sticking up and I can't get a good signal on my TV!

I'm glad that any fuse connected to the clock wiring did not show a fault as I have added so many gauges, etc over the years that I wouldn't be happy ripping them all out and testing one by one. The clock is not there anymore but it has been my preferred power source for muchos other stuff. I definitely used switched power wires for everything I've put in myself as I'm a bit paranoid about using anything electrical without the engine running.

As I've been looking at this all week perhaps I need a day off to forget about it all and regroup my thoughts.
Sorry it's a long one (mine always are) and thanks for reading and any help/advice given.

[Nick Mann]

How is the toad wired in?
Nice to see you are still around!

[apeman69]

I don't want to find out how the Toad's wired but I know that, at some point, I'll have to trace it back from the ignition barrel if only for long-term peace of mind.
I had a quick feel and look around the back of the in-cabin fusebox before darkness began to descend and there doesn't seem to be anything spliced in there or around there. When I do get around to removing the steering column shroud I expect to be greeted with Scotch blocks aplenty along with wires going here, there and everywhere courtesy of E&I.
Maybe I'm being stupid but, considering all the little electrical niggles I just sorted, I'm hoping it's something other than the alarm and would, ideally, prefer to leave this until later. I'm hoping that logically following what should be connected where via the fuses will lead me to finding the culprit.
All the elements of the alarm system appear to be working as they should. If I've got a short somewhere then I'd expect some function of the alarm to misbehave. This was my thinking in checking the known faulty bits first. It just so happens that the known faulty bits are all connected to the same main fuse in the engine bay (I think).
I know what you're getting at, Nick, and I am already contemplating the probability of working through the alarm wiring maybe at the weekend or next week.
I'm just hoping someone can clarify the situation with the 'overlapping' fuse descriptions just in case I've missed or misunderstood something or maybe someone can give me a spark of inspiration while I'm waiting to get at it again.

I've just remembered that the SRS light on the dash came on and stayed on about the same time I started to notice the battery problem: all above faults were present then.
I had the code cleared in time for MOT last month and it hasn't returned since. Hmmm.... don't want to go there yet! Think I'll check the alarm wiring first. grrrr!

[GalantOnly]

It might be something to do with Toad's wiring for lock/unlock, as Nick implies... Is there speed de-limiter / kmh-mph converter? If there is, it very likely sit on "fuse 9" too...

[apeman69]

Thanks Alex. Yes there is, so dash clocks out will be added to my dismantling list.

[WillVR4]

I have the exact same issue. If car sits for a few days battery is dead. I also have Toad Ai606 alarm wired in courtesy of E&I.

[apeman69]

Will, does your alarm work as expected? Do you have any other non-working electrical items. It may be worthwhile having a look at the interior lights that I mentiined initially as I still can't believe the state of the ones in mine. If I'd have left the rear door open then I reckon the battery would have been flat in half to an eighth of the time it takes now.

Would anyone with a Toad AI606 fitted be willing to test the current drain on their car with doors closed, bonnet open to compare with mine?
From my own testing I'd be expecting anything from 0.09A to 0.62A as the alarm must be drawing something.
Whatever this fault turns out to be and assuming I can get to the bottom of it then I'll post the result. If it is the alarm then I'll put as much detail of the wiring as I can in case it might help others with E&I fitted Toads.
I'll get a pen and paper ready... gulp!

[Humpty's Revenge]

Will, does your alarm work as expected? Do you have any other non-working electrical items. It may be worthwhile having a look at the interior lights that I mentiined initially as I still can't believe the state of the ones in mine. If I'd have left the rear door open then I reckon the battery would have been flat in half to an eighth of the time it takes now.

Would anyone with a Toad AI606 fitted be willing to test the current drain on their car with doors closed, bonnet open to compare with mine?
From my own testing I'd be expecting anything from 0.09A to 0.62A as the alarm must be drawing something.
Whatever this fault turns out to be and assuming I can get to the bottom of it then I'll post the result. If it is the alarm then I'll put as much detail of the wiring as I can in case it might help others with E&I fitted Toads.
I'll get a pen and paper ready... gulp!

Alan do you need a wiring diagram ?

[apeman69]

That would be most appreciated and no doubt very helpful to me. Thanks Steve. BTW the Skyline's still in the garage looking very nice until I decide what to do with it

[Humpty's Revenge]

That would be most appreciated and no doubt very helpful to me. Thanks Steve. BTW the Skyline's still in the garage looking very nice until I decide what to do with it

Hope this link works dude ? ignore the part in the link about Toyota as this pdf is the exact same as mine but I can't remember how to add it to the site as a pdf...

As for Skyline keep it mate as the ones with sun roofs are getting harder to find.

http://dub-se7en.toyotagtturbo.com/u...06_Install.pdf

[apeman69]

Cheers Steve. Got it.
Opened the file and imnediately this statement poked out at me: ' DO NOT USE SCOTCHLOCKS – ALL JOINTS SHOULD BE SOLDERED AND PROTECTED BY HEATSHRINK TUBING, SELF AMALGAMATING TAPE OR USE SPECIALIST CRIMPS AND TOOL'
We shall see....

[apeman69]

Thanks again Steve. Just read through it and it will be a valuable reference for what lies ahead. For once, a manual which does give some useful information

[Humpty's Revenge]

Thanks again Steve. Just read through it and it will be a valuable reference for what lies ahead. For once, a manual which does give some useful information

Your more than welcome dude....good luck

If you get stuck there is a little trick to finding out which wires are coloured coded before they were snipped of but I can't tell you over the forum.

[apeman69]

No worries. If it is something on the alarm I'm hoping it'll be something obvious like a dodgy connection.
If needs be I'll PM you in due course.
I'm still going to have a look at a few other bits before I take the plunge as you never know.

[WillVR4]

Will, does your alarm work as expected? Do you have any other non-working electrical items. It may be worthwhile having a look at the interior lights that I mentiined initially as I still can't believe the state of the ones in mine. If I'd have left the rear door open then I reckon the battery would have been flat in half to an eighth of the time it takes now.

Would anyone with a Toad AI606 fitted be willing to test the current drain on their car with doors closed, bonnet open to compare with mine?
From my own testing I'd be expecting anything from 0.09A to 0.62A as the alarm must be drawing something.
Whatever this fault turns out to be and assuming I can get to the bottom of it then I'll post the result. If it is the alarm then I'll put as much detail of the wiring as I can in case it might help others with E&I fitted Toads.
I'll get a pen and paper ready... gulp!

Funny you should say that. When I first got the car last summer I went camping and had the boot open for maybe 5-6 hours. I wasn't aware there was a light that was on at the back on the inside. Resulted in a flat battery.

Unfortunately I don't currently have a working Mutlimeter to test the current drain but will measure when I get it back.

W

[WillVR4]

Found one, Drawing about .62/.63A with doors closed and bonnet open. The Toad instructions that I have state...

Battery Drain
The alarm systems have been designed to draw as small an amount of current from your battery as possible. It should therefore not adversely affect most vehicle’s batteries, if left unattended for up to about two weeks.

W

[apeman69]

I think it's a good bet that whatever problem I have you have too. 0.62A same as me.
That's not good news for either of us I fear.
When did E&I fit the alarm? Mine was 2008 when I bought the car. I hope it's something simple like wiring and not a dodgy batch of alarms. Surely they should last 6 years+
Just thinking out loud here. It's always possible that connectors would corrode after such a time especially on aftermarket parts that are whacked in there in a rush, given our ever changing weather conditions.
I'll keep you posted.

[apeman69]

Will, check your interior light bulbs. Don't just look at them, check the resistance on your multimeter. If you find any dodgy ones then maybe bin the lot or try gently twisting the ends. They'll probably fall apart if they're old.

[Humpty's Revenge]

I personally think that it is the way the alarm is wired up IE the same way as the instructions say that you will get a drain.

I say this as I had one taken out of one legnum & professionally fitted in another

Both suffered from battery drain over a few days

I could be wrong but both never suffered from that before Toad Ai606 was fitted !

[apeman69]

So the question is why?
If it's wired as it's supposed to be then the current drain shouldn't be so high unless there is something different in our cars to all the others that have this alarm fitted.
It's an alarm designed for a multitude of applications.
There must be a lot of VR-4s supplied by E&I with this alarm fitted. Surely not all of these cars have a flat battery after 1-2 days of standing.