Help with my evoscan data logs.

[Davezj]

i agree totally with tim. no point of doing anything else before you get rid of the original valve.
4mm or 5mm vacuum/boost tube should be fine to use. as long as it is good quality tube and will not squash under vacuum.
connect the blitz BOV vac pipe to where the gauge is connected via a T piece with equal size bores. Back off the spring in the BOV so it is at a minimum setting see if it works and then incrmentally tighten it up until it holds the boost level you are currently running. but as said it is pointless doing this untill you get rid of the the broken original recirc valve.

the vac boost line does not just open the valve at the correct time bit it also keeps the valve closed until the trottle body is closed and vacuum is applied to the valve.
when the valve is under boost pressure the the same pressure is applied to each side of the valve opening piece via the big boost pipe and the small vac/boost pipe so the spring inside the valve keeps the opening part closed, due to the fact of the equal pressure from both sides. but when the vacuum is applied to the small vac/boost pipe it creates an unequal pressure difference and the boost pressure is now able to overcome the spring pressure and push the opening part of the valve open which releases the boost pressure.
So if there is no vac/boost pressure there is only the spring inside the recic valve that will hold the boost pressure back on the pipe so this is where you are leaking pressure from and why you have limited boost pressure.

well that is what i think is happening.

[nos monkeys]

thanks and thats what i think as well, i have some 4mm silicone hose which was attached to the boost controller i ripped off and that's what i used to put the bov on the other day but even at the loosest setting on the bov it didnt work, ill just say that line isnt any good so im going down to the shop today if i have enough money and buying more line to connect that up and see if they sell blanking plugs to take the old bov off.

Will get all this sorted then come back with the result

i just measured that hose i used and the inside hole is barely 2mm, no idea why they brought such small hose. will try and get all this fixed soon im not hoping it will fix all my problems but its got to be a step forward

[nos monkeys]

i got it all done, but not sure if my bov is better or worse before it use to go off at like 1500/2k rpm now it wont go off till well after 3k? is this normal i have it set on the lightest spring rate. im about to go take it for a drive and see if its better or worse

[Badger_01]

i got it all done, but not sure if my bov is better or worse before it use to go off at like 1500/2k rpm now it wont go off till well after 3k? is this normal i have it set on the lightest spring rate. im about to go take it for a drive and see if its better or worse

Much more normal haha, thats why i was surprised when driving it and the bov went off in the lower rev range

[nos monkeys]

Much more normal haha, thats why i was surprised when driving it and the bov went off in the lower rev range

yeah it would go off all the time lol, ok i just went for a drive. . . . its alot worse than ever everytime i change gear the car stalls and i have to start it again. the bov everytime it goes csssh it sticks open full way more than before and takes much more for it to close again, which is why i think it stalls every time i change gear. and when i put my foot down it ran so bad, it did run how it has been when it ran like crap but it did it al the time and i only put my foot down twice then im like nah this cant be good for it lol.

i havent got money to get a new bov or buy another recirc valve so ill just hook it back upto how it was before since it didnt cause it to stick open as much as it does now.

no idea if my boost gauge is working properly now either now the stock recirc valve is blocked up because its running worse than before. at least now ill take it out tomorrow and get some videos because this is what it done to me since iv got it just never this bad and was only minor.

i dont even bloody know.

Tomorrow ill pull my bov off again pull it right apart give it a clean check it all out to see if anything looks out of place and hopefully fix it from sticking, also ill try grab a video of how it runs since it does it way worse than normal. but i think because now iv blocked the stock recirc valve and its getting full boost ( i think ) is making the engine play up worse. it could be the plugs but i cant afford to just go out and buy plugs if thats actually not the problem so ill get a video and see what you think. hopefully i can sort out this bov from sticking open as well, i even tried it without the boost gauged t'd in but didnt make a difference

[swinks]

Still, your location of bov is... yhm... let's name it gently, silly.
First, you should have only one valve to dump excessive air. You have to choose between recirculating dv or vent to air bov. You can't have both.
Second, dv or bov location should be as close to throttle body as possible and after intercooler to increase response time and desired effect.
So my suggestion is to:
- choose option dv vs. bov
- return to stock intercooler pipe prior to intercooler
- fit choosen option dv/bov into stock designated place and provide vacuum feed from source after throttle body (intale plenum chamber)

Or... ignore all above being said and plague forum with more billions threads...

[nos monkeys]

yeah i thought it was in a silly place as well, im thinking of finding a cheap stock valve and putting it on but then i need to buy another stock hose to replace where my bov is, then i can just sell off the bov and try recoupe some money. there is a guy that has a few legnums hes wrecking im going to go see him and see if any are vr4s and how much he'd want for them bits. my stock valve has a broken vaccum nipple so cant reuse that =[

[nos monkeys]

still cant get a video without that noise, not sure how to attach my camera without taping it to the dash, ill keep trying though but when i took it out today it ran fine 80% the time. also i blanked the stock recirc valve off and cleaned the other bov and tried that i think with that stock valve blocked my boost gauge sometimes reads 7psi but really hard to tell.

when the rain stops ill try another boost leak on it and check

done another boost leak, everything seems to be ok i used soapy water, my bov is leaking the tinyest bit that that will be fine. the biggest leak is at the back on the engine down and behind the throttle body. any ideas what could be leaking down there? here is a video of it, sorry its dark but half way through it shows where abouts the hissing is. also my boost gauge reads what my boost leak tester reads so it definatly isnt broken.

this is pretty much where my 300zx has its boost leak as well and no idea what it is because cant see anything and i sprayed everywhere but still no luck

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tp5h...ature=youtu.be

[Nick Mann]

The bov reference line and turbo actuator lines are down there. Id suggest that it is probably not the actuator line though. It could also be the plastic elbow to the throttle body connection, there is a rubber seal on there which is sometimes tricky to make sit right.

[swinks]

And more... rear bank injector seals

[nos monkeys]

i checked bov lines and wastegate lines and wasnt them, wasnt the throttle body bend bit either seemed to be abit lower than that, how do i know if its the injector seals? im going to take my plenum off soon to replace the back 3 plugs and might try check the injector seals then.

when the car is running it sounds like a vacuum leak is there as well like really bad as if a vacuum line has fallen off but not sure if there is any that low apart from the wastegate line, i just assumed it was the engine sucking in air but now it could be a big leak

also if anyone has a link to remove the intake plenum could you post on here please, i had a look through the archives but couldnt find it.

[Davezj]

doing a boost leak thest does not mean just spary a tiny amount of soapy water where you know there is a leak to prove it you must systematically go round every joint and seal in the system and spray it to see if there is a leak, and when you find one leak you fix that one and then repeat the boost leak test.
If you find a big leak, stop the test fix it, retest all the joint and seal you have alread tested and carry on until you find the next leak.
if you want to test the injector seals, spray the injector seals. you don't have to remove anything apart from the engine cover to do that. if you are not confident about removing the engine cover don't even consider doing anything else on you car.

by the way where are you feeding the compressed are into the turbo pipe work for the boost leak test?
i ask this because it sound like you are in over you head already, with regard working on you car. it might sound like i am being a bit harsh but you have made some fundimental mistakes and have not given the sort of information that makes help you very easy in any way. you have to remember we only know what you tell us we are not mind reads. we can only assume you car is factory stock unless you tell us otherise. but we are getting there with this issue, and i am sure it will get resolved. We all want to help you resolve this issue you are having, I can see how frustrating it is for you, but just have to keep going with it, i have only said what I have said above as I want to be realistic in the amount of stuff you are able to do on the car. There is no point in going through loads of stuff you would not even think of taking on, so if we are going to far with stuff or there is stuff you don't understand just tell us and we can explain it or tackle it in a different way.

Air is like water and like electricity, it will escape through the path of least resistance, and boost leak test will find the biggest leak first (least resistance) then when that is fixed it will find the next biggest leak and when that is fixed the next biggest and so on. just because a jointor seal was no showing a leak first time you did the test does not mean it will not be leaking the next time you do the test.
you just have to decide when to stop fixing the leaks, all forced induction engine car will leak to certain extent it is up to you when you a satisfied that the size of the leak is not work worrying about. i normally stop when it is only the idle control screw and the throttle body shaft seals that are still leaking.

that is why i do not believe anyone that says they have done a boost leak test and do not have any leaks, unless they have just rebuilt every part of the engine related to the air inlet system with all new parts gaskets and seals, and i don't know anyone that has done that.

now the question is, have you removed one of your bov/recirc valves yet?
as i believe it was said above that it is pointless trying to do anything else on this issue until ou have corrected this issue. if your original recirc valve sis still fitted and has no vac/boost pipe connected to it this you will leak boost pressure internally into the pre turbo air intake pipes, and it not something you will see with a boost leak test.

[Davezj]

still cant get a video without that noise, not sure how to attach my camera without taping it to the dash, ill keep trying though but when i took it out today it ran fine 80% the time. also i blanked the stock recirc valve off and cleaned the other bov and tried that i think with that stock valve blocked my boost gauge sometimes reads 7psi but really hard to tell.

when the rain stops ill try another boost leak on it and check

done another boost leak, everything seems to be ok i used soapy water, my bov is leaking the tinyest bit that that will be fine. the biggest leak is at the back on the engine down and behind the throttle body. any ideas what could be leaking down there? here is a video of it, sorry its dark but half way through it shows where abouts the hissing is. also my boost gauge reads what my boost leak tester reads so it definatly isnt broken.

this is pretty much where my 300zx has its boost leak as well and no idea what it is because cant see anything and i sprayed everywhere but still no luck

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tp5h...ature=youtu.be

That is a massive leak, if the air you can hear in the video is what escaping from the leak and not what is flowing through the regulator you have fitted.
What pressure are you using to test for a leak it should not be any more than a few psi higher than the boost pressure you want to be running when under maximum boost pressure at wide open throttle (WOT).
The majority of leaks you fix with a boost leak test should be leaks you can't actually hear escaping from the pipework. If you can hear a leak, it is a big leak.

[nos monkeys]

yeah i removed the stock recirc valve and blanked off the holes, couldnt use that because the broken vacuum line so had to stick with the one on there, and i done it to 5 psi and i took the intercooler hose off the end of the y pipe and did the pressure leak from there.

everything on this car is now stock i removed all the other junk the only thing which is still fitted is the blitz bov because i couldnt re use the stock recirc valve and the boost gauge which are both fitted on right.

I can't spray the back injectors there hidden under the intake? where do you think that massive leak is coming from im not sure what is behind and under that side of the intake plenum

[Davezj]

right what did you plack off,
did you block off the input and output from the recirc valve the input comes from the intercooler output pipe and the output goes to the front turbo input.
Depending if the pipe is still connect to the plenum did you block off the small vac/boost pipe.

as for the joint and seals to check, Spray all the joints/seals you can see. even if you can see the rear injector seals you know where they are as they are mirrored from front to back so look at the fronts and guess where the rear ones are and spray the area if they are leaking then you should hear them bubbling if they are leaking. but below are some points you should beable to test for leaks.

throttle body to plenum, there should be a gasket between the to.
plenum to inlet manifold
throttle body to butteryfly valve shaft
pipes on back of plenum
pipe on front of plenum
frp solenoid pipe in front of throttle body
boost solenoid pipe in front of throttle body
wastegate pipe and T piece.
turbo elbow to throttle body
pipes coming off turbo elbow.
pipe from plenum to original wastegate.
plus others, but try these for starters.

you will just have to spray every joint you can see and every moving part in the area.

[nos monkeys]

right what did you plack off,
did you block off the input and output from the recirc valve the input comes from the intercooler output pipe and the output goes to the front turbo input.
Depending if the pipe is still connect to the plenum did you block off the small vac/boost pipe.

as for the joint and seals to check, Spray all the joints/seals you can see. even if you can see the rear injector seals you know where they are as they are mirrored from front to back so look at the fronts and guess where the rear ones are and spray the area if they are leaking then you should hear them bubbling if they are leaking. but below are some points you should beable to test for leaks.

throttle body to plenum, there should be a gasket between the to.
plenum to inlet manifold
throttle body to butteryfly valve shaft
pipes on back of plenum
pipe on front of plenum
frp solenoid pipe in front of throttle body
boost solenoid pipe in front of throttle body
wastegate pipe and T piece.
turbo elbow to throttle body
pipes coming off turbo elbow.
pipe from plenum to original wastegate.
plus others, but try these for starters.

you will just have to spray every joint you can see and every moving part in the area.

yes the inlet and outlet of the stock recric valve is what i blanked off, the small vac/boost line your taking about is the one from the stock recirc back to behind the intake next to the wastegate line? that's been disconnected and blocked off.

if the rain holds off ill check a few more things, most those i have checked and were good but there is 1 or 2 i havent.

[Davezj]

so you should be ready for everything to work.
if you still getting a air leak at the back of the throttle body, you just need to ensure the spray nozzel is wide angle spray and spray everything, you will cause any problems, i have done this loads of times, just look for the bubbles when it sprayed over the leak. i can't see how you can miss a leak if you can physically hear a leak occuring.
one thing you might want to do is to undo the bolt that holds the suppression capacitor down and the two connectors in a bracket in front of the throttle body. this will allow you to see the fpr solenoid and the factory boost solenoid. as you say it is all factory spec appart from the BOV now there should be no unconnected pipes in that area, my bet would be there is a disconnected pipe in that location, it normally is due to the owner not knowing how to plum in a MBC or EBC, and they leave something disconnect that should be connected.
i am not saying you have left things disconnected but the previous owner of the car does not seem to have been the brightest button in the box, or just not been bothered. but i can see you want things to be right with you car and are will to slog on with fixing.

[nos monkeys]

yeah thats what it was like when i brought it the mbc was on wrong and so many lines off, i have checked the fpr and boost solenoid and they are ok, need to wait for the rain to stop then ill get back out there. and ill take a torch with me so i can see behind there, last night when i done it it was a tad dark so couldnt actually see much.

[Davezj]

i seem to remember the boost control solenoid was completely disconected when you bought the car so there was no boost control at all. the boost pressure must have shot up to about 1.5 bar and then slowly dropped off to about 1 bar at 6500 rpm. well it could have done that if the fuel cut limit had been raised. but i presure when you pressed the accelerator it hit fuel cut almost straight away, and you had to be really carefull how you drove the car to keep it from fuel cutting every time you touched the accelerator.
or did the fact that there were two turbo valves fitted kill this extra boost.

If this is true then you know the turbos do boost to higher pressures that you are seeing now, and it just a case of getting the boost control sorted out.

[nos monkeys]

yeah im not actually sure, but it was free boosting and it hit fuel cut instantly and i never knew what it was then i joined on here and got that sorted, but the thing that worrys me is the owners who sold it to me said they brought the car like it was and had it for 2 years driving it daily so this 140,000km engine has probably clocked up way to much abuse, thats why im really worried about all these problems and it not running right.

the boost gauge had never said anything above 5psi since iv got it so the turbos could be spooling unlimited boost and just wasting it out the 3 vacuum lines that weren't connected and the recirc valve.

The mitis place said its running 7.25psi and my gauge sort of gets to 7psi but drops off back to 5psi, but i havent checked it since iv done the few fixes of boost leaks. But would my boost solenoid be broken because its a stock manual and stock boost is meant to be 9psi and its running 7 if there are no other leaks what would be the issue, still the solenoid?

unless the turbos are broken for the years of free boosting, but i did check the intake side and wiggled the fins and it didnt really have and play or wobbles and it doesnt blow any smoke at all

Edit: Doing another boost leak now to try find the big leak