Help with my evoscan data logs.

[nos monkeys]

yeah pretty much, my first car was a 300zx and i had that for 6 years+ brought at 200,000kms done well over 300,000kms on the stock engine without 1 problem and ever since i sold that iv never had a decent car since so wanted to buy another 300zx but they aint very practical for a family so thats why i was looking for a station wagon and wanted something practical but not gutless and something i could tow with if need be. and i always thought these legnums would be pretty good if everything was as it was stock, but since i kept having problems with this and the amount of money i had spent at the mitsi dealer and it still not been fixed i gave up putting lots of money into it paying people when it still doesnt make a difference and thats when i brought my other 300zx which i can use for a work car when i find a job since its reliable and doesnt need anything done. when i find a job ill have weekly income and be able to afford to buy parts to fix the legnum myself without having to have it driving at the end of the day i can just have it in bits till iv replaced most things. i really want to replace the coils leads plugs throttle body ( because that leak ) want to replace all the vacuum lines get rid of the stupid bov and get a good stock recirc and pretty much make it back to how it left the factory then ill know it would be good to go.

by the time im finished with it though i would pretty much know most things about it and be able to fix it quick and easy in the future if there are any problems, when i took the valve covers off everything in the engine still looked pretty good not all gummed oil and the compression on all the cylinders are good and even all around. but ill take the sump off and clean that out to make sure its not starving of oil from gunk build up on the pick up like you said then pretty much the next thing id need to replace in the future would probably be turbo repairs then it should be sweet for a long time if i keep up the maintenance.

I do like this car but i wish it was how it was meant to be, id love a mint condition one with ayc working and nothing wrong with it. id say it'l be a pretty awesome car.

[Davezj]

i can see you are commited to getting this car back up and running to tiptop condition.
and it sould like you have the skills to do it, but not the knowledge of the turbo car yet but that will soon change as it will become second naturer to you soon enough.
have you looked at the pluming schematics in the jap workshop manual, they are quite good at giving a visual explanation of what is going on in the turbo vac/boost system.

i will see if i can find it for you.

loak at 13A part1.pdf page 4 (13A-4) it shows the schematic of the turbo system.

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthr...orkshop+manual

copy and past the jap words into babelfish and do a translation if you can't work out what all the bits are. but when you look at logically it make perfect sense. the air inlet is the arrow bottom left of the diagram with the air box and panel filter show from the side.

however as yours is a manual without TCL you will not have the extra solenoid valves and canistar attached to the throttle body at the top of the diagram (4 items in the middle).

the valve below the throttle body is the fuel presssre solenoid and fuel pressure regualtor.
bottom left valve is the boost control valve.
at the bottom is the catalytic converter and the O2 sesnor.


the rest should be obvious.

Hope this help.

[nos monkeys]

Thanks ill have a read through that, i have downloaded all those files from that workshop just havent ladbel which part is for different things so takes awhile to track down what im actually looking for, will take the car out for a drive tomorrow after cleaning the mess of an oil and hoping there is some change if not ill order some plugs next week if i can afford it and change them over and see what luck i have, i think its almost there just needs a few more special touches.

this was my first turbo car apart from my 300 which i brought after but i know my way around the non turbo engine in my 300 so the turbo knowledge im getting from this will come in handy if i have problems in my 300 otherwise most engines i have worked on have been old school carbys haha

[wintertidenz]

If you don't mind changing the plugs earlier than what you normally would, just get a set of NGK coppers for $30 or so. I've done this on my Legnum as I didn't quite have the cash available at the time (and the car was going to be coming off the road in the next 10,000km anyway for an engine swap/cambelt, so no point in buying expensive plugs for them to be scrapped later).
I swapped to the NGK coppers from those crappy Bosch plugs and immediately noticed a difference in engine performance - even if they do have to be done every second or third oil change, for me it was worth that sacrifice.

If you get stuck with the manual throttle body leaking like crazy I do have a spare one sitting in my garage that I'll let go for a reasonable price. Just let me know.

[nos monkeys]

Thanks, will let you know if i need one, ill check how bad this one is leaking another time. Do you know the number of those spark plugs ? i might just get some of them

[wintertidenz]

BKR6E. Make sure that they are missing the -11 at the end, otherwise get a feeler gauge and regap them to 0.8mm.

[nos monkeys]

so i dont want the ones that have -11 at the end? and cheers ill get some of them. that way its cheaper and i get to replace all 6 and hopefully things get better.

Took it for a drive today and still runs the same but on the bright side its getting worse because it hesitates in every gear now just just first, as soon as boost comes on it sort of coughs then half goes. ill get some plugs check its not leaking oil in that spark plug then if no luck ill replace the coils and leads and if no luck i have no idea

[wintertidenz]

If you cannot get the 0.8mm factory gapped ones, then the -11's will do as long as you regap them. I'd also check the gap on those Bosch ones - IIRC they aren't gapped to 0.8mm from factory, which doesn't help your boost issues.

[nos monkeys]

thanks, ill go buy a feeler gauge and check and get some of them plugs and see how it goes

[nos monkeys]

Well i replaced the plugs got a stock recirc valve got rid of all the stupid stuff that was plumb wrong and today i went out for a hunt with my dogs and it drove fine and didnt have problems. although it sometimes boost spikes to 9psi but then falls back down to about 6-7psi . . . so its still not hitting full boost but i dont care it runs smooth doesnt do anything stupid like before and has no boost leaks apart from the throttle body which isnt to bad of a leak, with the throttle wide open the leak is very minor.

maybe my boost solenoid is broken? but if it is broken how come it sits at like 7psi instead of wastegate 5psi. i duno and i'll sort it out sometime in the future got no money to spend on parts just to make it go faster it runs smooth and should now be reliable, when the plugs need replacing ill buy proper ones again but had no money for them so just got those cheap ones.

Thanks ben for the recirc valve, thanks reece for the spark plugs, thanks winter for the plug number and thanks dave for answering my lots of silly questions haha and thanks to anyone else who helped

[wintertidenz]

Plugs will help boost, and even I get the weird boost spikes with a FL ECU (meant to be 9 psi, I normally get 7-8). It could also be boost control hosing is leaking slightly, or a wastegate is getting old and not holding boost like it should.

At least it's running properly now.

[Davezj]

Well i replaced the plugs got a stock recirc valve got rid of all the stupid stuff that was plumb wrong and today i went out for a hunt with my dogs and it drove fine and didn't have problems. although it sometimes boost spikes to 9psi but then falls back down to about 6-7psi . . . so its still not hitting full boost but i don't care it runs smooth doesn't do anything stupid like before and has no boost leaks apart from the throttle body which isn't to bad of a leak, with the throttle wide open the leak is very minor.

maybe my boost solenoid is broken? but if it is broken how come it sits at like 7psi instead of wastegate 5psi. i duno and i'll sort it out sometime in the future got no money to spend on parts just to make it go faster it runs smooth and should now be reliable, when the plugs need replacing ill buy proper ones again but had no money for them so just got those cheap ones.

Thanks ben for the recirc valve, thanks reece for the spark plugs, thanks winter for the plug number and thanks dave for answering my lots of silly questions haha and thanks to anyone else who helped

so you got rid of the broken recirc valve, replaced it with a working one and removed the blitz bov, and it all seems to work. glad you got round to doing it.
if you are using factory boost control now then and you have a pfl auto then 0.5 to 0.6 bar (7 -9psi) is standard boost level so it sound like it is working fine.

pfl manual and fl manual and fl atuo have the slightly raised boost level of 0.7-0.8 bar (10 to 12psi). your boost control is obviously working as without it you get you get wastegate pressure which is 0.4 bar and with it disconnected you get very high boost. so it is working.

if you want more boost fit a manual boost controller and turn it up a bit you will be safe up to 0.8- 0.9 bar. they are only cheap and simple to setup.

[nos monkeys]

the car is a stock manual so should be in the higher boost range.

i just went for a quick drive and still running fine without a problem, didnt do many first gear pulls though but didnt miss or be weird. i also disconnected the wastegate lines so it was free boosting just to see if my boost gauge now is right and reads what it should and it did! it went over 10psi with ease i didnt rev it right out i just made sure the boost gauge was working. since when i brought it and it was free boosting yet the gauge was only saying 5psi because all the stupid pipe work plumbing and everything but it looks like everything on this car is fixed. so i could put the boost controller in and wind the boost up and it will work. not that im going to but its good to know the gauge is now working and everything seems to be fixed

Now it best stay reliable... although my partner wants to use it next weekend to go for a 5hour trip for her baby shower but im not sure i wana let her drive it just yet . . . she will probably break it or something i duno but the last car she had she blew 3 engines in a year no idea how she managed it but just let them cook till it seized then rung asking why her car is smoking from the bonnet. . . it was steam lol

the only problem that remains is my abs codes but idc about them it breaks hard just fine. my ayc diff is broken but open diff works fine for now. and going from 5th to 4th is really hard because 4th is angled and bent, doesnt grind or anything just hard to find going from 5th to 4th although iv figured out how to change but my partner will probably somehow wont work how it works and break it more haha

[Davezj]

glad to hear it is working now.
the boost controller shold be ok to fit now. and you should be able to set it to about 10-12psi without issue. but go any higher than that and you will hit fuel cut.
it would be a good idea to run the car without wastegate pipe connected and drive car in 3rd gear not 1st or second and rev it hard to see what the fuel cut feels like, it will scare the crap out of you the first time you hit fuel cut, but you need to know what feels like so when it happens and you are not expecting it to happen you do not panic. it feels like something just went bang in the engine.
but it is not as bad as the spped cut at 112mph or reading on the dial is 120mph that really does feel like the cambelt just snapped.

it is a bit like people driving the car without knowing what the ABS feels like. and when they need the abs they panic due to the brake pedel judering and lift off the brake and have an accident as they think the bakes are faulty. you need to be able to use the driving aids on the car and learning to steer the car whilst having the brakes fully on is not an instinctive thing to do, you tend to hold the steering wheel staight and not turn it.

[Badger_01]

it would be a good idea to run the car without wastegate pipe connected and drive car in 3rd gear not 1st or second and rev it hard to see what the fuel cut feels like, it will scare the crap out of you the first time you hit fuel cut, but you need to know what feels like so when it happens and you are not expecting it to happen you do not panic.

This. Pretty scary hitting it the first time haha

[nos monkeys]

might try that, i think i know what fuel cut is im sure it done it all the time when i first brought it but ill check that out just to make sure i know what it is, i do have evoscan now so i could wind the boost upto 10-12psi and run it and see if its knocking more or not. it doesnt knock at all now i think its been about 1-2 once but no constants knocks.

if im driving it and using the power to haul around corners it handles really nice, it just feels dodgy when cruising it doesnt tend to hold a straight line, i think the rear springs have been cut since its low but stock springs and they might be uneven but just feels a tad weird cruising feels floaty. but its all good when i use the power it holds the road and handles good.

its still running good now without problems. my 300 on the other hand isnt running at full power and not sure why i think its because is not hitting 9psi boost till like 5k rpm and it should hit boost at like 3k. it has minor boost leaks but about as much as my vr4 leaking at the throttle body. it might be because its a stock exhaust and maybe collapsed cats in it making the spool slow but ill sort that out one day, the legnum is much more fun to drive now (: