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Thread: AYC 3 bars almost always?

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    c0ldblooded's Avatar

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    Question AYC 3 bars almost always?

    Hi guys,
    I'm most probably having trouble with the AYC on my car. When I start it up the 3 bars light up and go off as they should. When I get going at low speeds I have full 3 bars up to about 80kph/50mph doesn't matter if I'm going straight or turning. Also I can hear the pump buzzing in the back. Over that speed it usually goes to 1/0 bar. The car has had its 60k miles service recently - every fluid except the one for the brakes was changed. The diagnostic says something along the lines of "G (stick)". Any ideas?

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    Tyre pressures are the first thing to check. There are g sensors underneath the large cubby hole by the drivers left elbow so maybe one of those is dodgy?

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    MarkSanne's Avatar

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    Tyre pressure and even tyre size! These should all be the same. When they're not, these symptoms can occur. Could also be something in the AYC pump or sensors, can you tell us which error code you get when you use the simple OBD pin1-pin4 method to get the dashboard to show you the codes?

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    c0ldblooded's Avatar

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    Thanks for the quick responses Tyres are the same all round - Eagle F1 Asymetric 2, pressures - all are at 2.5. Could it be tyre wear by any chance? I'll have a look at the exact errors I have on the printout in the car and post them.
    Nick - I suppose you mean the hole under the arm rest - there are 2 boxes in there - a smaller one and a bigger one (cube). Any idea which one is the sensor?
    Mark - how exactly do I do the OBD thing?

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    swinks's Avatar

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    Big one - impact sensor;
    2 small one - ayc thingy.
    Ex: Galant VR4
    Running 268 HP ATW and 443 Nm torque at 0.9 bar
    Now: Lancer Evolution 8 FQ-300
    Running 325 HP ATW and 510 Nm torque at 1.6 bar

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    MarkSanne's Avatar

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    I can't find the topic on the how-to-read-diagnostics-codes via the dashboard but in short:

    Connect pin 1 to pin 4 in the black OBD-connector with (for example) a paperclip. Your engine does not need to be running, put the key in the ignition on ACC is enough. Your dashboard will start lighting up and blinking.

    All icons that blink or are on constantly you can skip. The icons like ABS, AYC or Engine that potentionally start blinking irregular are counted like this:
    - long blink counts for 10, short blinks count for 1.

    E.g.: the ABS icon blinks long twice (10+10) and 3 times short, so total count = 23
    Then you can search for error code ABS 23 and you'll know what is wrong (or at least in which direction you should be looking). The search on the forum for 'error/diagnostics codes' will help you.

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    c0ldblooded's Avatar

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    Got it - thanks Just tried the paper clip/OBD - got 8 long blinks and 2 short from the AYC lamp - from what you've said = 82 aka 82 - AYC Pump. ABS and Engine were blinking at a constant rate and the AYC was blinking 2xShort - pause - 8xLong - pause.
    From the two MUT printouts I got this:
    1)
    - *2 - G S(stick) - ink is faded, I can't see if it is 3,5 or 6. It isn't 8 that's for sure.
    - 82 - Temp Fail 1

    2)
    - 23 - RR SNSR
    - 32 - G S(STRAIGH*) - again ink faded, can't make out the last letter probably T

    BTW is it normal for the ABS/Engine and N(gear) lights to blink constantly when I do the obd/paperclip thing?

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    MarkSanne's Avatar

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    Yes the ABS/Engine/N lights constant is ok.
    The MUT printouts are not something I recognize, and I am unsure if most Mitsu dealers have the correct ROM pack for VR4's! Maybe they use the normal Galant ROM pack for the MUT, but that is speculation. The flashy dashboard pin1-pin4 readout is a sure thing though

    The error code AYC 82 is Electric Pump Failure

    The complete error / diagnostics codes list:
    http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthr...e-codes-update

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