Engine removal questions

[mattnz]

So I had the engine bay cleaned to figure out where my oil leak is, and it turns out that it's more like where it isn't.

I've resolved to take out the engine, redo the seals, and assess what else it needs at the time (hopefully not too much rebuilding).

I've got a few questions about the job:

1. What else should be done with it? Engine has done 180,000km, so the cambelt presumably? I'll probably also put in some zero-tick lifters and change my engine mounts. Anything else I should be looking at doing (I'm not going to change the turbos )?
2. Where is the best place to get these parts?
3. I'm doing the job with a friend who has taken out engines, but no VR4s. Are there any particular issues that arise in our cars? We'll be using an engine hoist.

[adaxo]

I would start with finding the reason of leaks, may breather pipes are blocked or gases blow by piston rings due to wear, and bulding excessive presure. Without finding why is leaking it will probably leak again through new seals, just waist of money and time IMO.

[mattnz]

That's a good point, I'll check the pcv valves and give it a compression test.

I'm mainly wanting to do it for the experience as much as anything, so time isn't a problem for me

[wintertidenz]

Cambelt is a definite yes, along with plugs - I can refit a cambelt to my spare engine within 10 minutes with the engine out.
The big crankshaft seal is worth doing while gearbox/transmission is out. Also check your sump and replace it if it's damaged.

I'd also check over all the coolant hoses and replace them for peace of mind - if they're the original hoses they WILL fail sooner or later. Don't overlook the metal ones either - they can spring a leak too.

I'd go with genuine parts for cambelt and seals, for lifters I honestly just cleaned up my spare set as they were all OK (and appeared to be uprated ones anyway). There's a Chinese site that sells a silicon set of coolant hoses for our cars if you want to go for a little more show in the engine bay.
Engine mounts - may as well go for poly ones while you have the engine out, Mac @ 41 can get them in for you.

[Subaru ETA]

Is your car manual or auto? If manual you might as well do the clutch, rear main and if you are real keen input shaft bearing and seal.
If an auto to the torque converter and rear main seals.
I would be dropping the whole lot out the bottom

[Adam.Findlay]

yep engine out the bottom. drop engine box and transfer case all in one go.
unbolt the AC pump from the motor and leave that behind, that way you dont need to re-gas the AC
Ive taken engine in and out of vr4's more times than any sane human ever should so if you have a question feel free to give me a call.

[Tam]

Hi Matt,
I had to change my engine when the big end started knocking. I took the alternator off, just disconnected the ac and held it up with string. However to put it in I connected everything together (transfer, gearbox and engine) and then just lifted the front of the up (it was very high) and pushed it under. Definitely recommend doing it like Adam says, it's the way I'll do it next time.
There is some very good guides on the forum.
Marc

[mattnz]

Thanks for all the info, is there a trick to getting the axles out?

[Nick Mann]

Which end? I usually only remove them from the gearbox/transfer box, not at the hubs. A piece of wood placed against the green cup and a hammer does the trick for me.

[Davezj]

personally i have only removed a couple of engines, but i have always done to from the top.
i lift the car to the max on axle stands at the front.
drop the transfer case
drop the gear box out.
lift the engine out of the top of the engine bay. my engine crain will happily lift the engine up and over the front slam panel even with the front of the car up in the a air.

i am not saying it is only way to do it or anything like that, just pointing out it is possible to lift the engine out of the top. i was surprised when i lifted the engine for the first time my crane lifts very high on full extention and still has 500KG limit on full extension which is more than enough to lift the engine out but it is handy to have one of those centre of balence adjuster gadet to ensure the engine sits flat when suspended on the crane. it does mean you have to remove the bonnet, but you have probably done this already to gain better access to the rest of the engine bay.

just my thoughts on the job in hand.

oh by the way if you are doing work on an engine while to is out of the car i would recommend you bolt it to an engine stand then when you swing on a bolt the engine will not start moving about. They are not expensive if you don't have one, about £50 should do it.

[mattnz]

Just enough to get drop the engine out really, was just wondering if it was necessary to take the hubs off. That'll make things easier

[scott.mohekey]

It's way easier to drop the engine on a dolly and drag it out underneath while the front of the car is lifted up.

[mattnz]

Thanks Dave, didn't see that yesterday.

Just had the first day of the job getting everything pulled off and such, it's currently hanging on by the driver's side drive shaft, will give it a smack as you suggested Nick

We're still a bit undecided about what way to get it out, as he's only done out the top before. Currently it's hooked up to a block and tackle. My concern about going out the top is that it seems like the passenger side engine mount will make that a challenge. We also have a pit at our disposal, so we can lower it into there (might be a tight fit though) and then lift it out of the pit.

An engine stand might be a good idea, but I was thinking of just leaving the gearbox attached. The clutch has only done about 40k, so it seems like a bit of an unnecessary hassle.

[Erni902]

It's way easier to drop the engine on a dolly and drag it out underneath while the front of the car is lifted up.

I have only done 2 engine removals and both times did it as Scott says, by dropping the engine (complete with gearbox) onto a dolly and dragging out whilst car is jacked up a little:

IMG_0746 (Medium).JPG

[scott.mohekey]

Yeah, the gearbox mount problem you're talking about is exactly why its easier to go out below. If you have a block and tackle, you should be able to lift the front of the car up further once the engine is on a dolly.

[mattnz]

Yep, looks like a goer.

Also, this might be a topic for a new thread, but the water system was pretty corroded, and one of metal connectors to the heating hose snapped off the firewall. Is this something that can be replaced from the engine side?

[scott.mohekey]

The two hoses that go onto large barbs on the firewall? I think the barbs are plastic. In any case, you'd have to take the heater core out of the cabin to replace them.

[mattnz]

Dammit. Does the entire dash need to come out for that?

[scott.mohekey]

I think you might be able to get to it without taking the dash out, from the passengers foot well. But I think it'd be easier with the dash out.

[mattnz]

Rocker covers are off now, everything looks okay but there's a bit of sludgy oil covering the non-moving parts, is this common?

Also what's a good way of getting to the crankshaft front oil seal?