The cam belt has to come off to get to the front crankshaft oil seal.
Yep the cambelt is off, it's the pulley that I'm concerned about.
You want one of these: http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/onli...id=12533#Cross
if you are not removing the transfer case and gear box then it would have to be drop it through the bottom, but if the gear box is coming off, and you would be dropping that out the bottom, then the engine out the top every time for me. the coolant rad will be out at this point so you would have lots of space.Originally Posted by mattnz
Thanks Dave, didn't see that yesterday.
Just had the first day of the job getting everything pulled off and such, it's currently hanging on by the driver's side drive shaft, will give it a smack as you suggested Nick
We're still a bit undecided about what way to get it out, as he's only done out the top before. Currently it's hooked up to a block and tackle. My concern about going out the top is that it seems like the passenger side engine mount will make that a challenge. We also have a pit at our disposal, so we can lower it into there (might be a tight fit though) and then lift it out of the pit.
An engine stand might be a good idea, but I was thinking of just leaving the gearbox attached. The clutch has only done about 40k, so it seems like a bit of an unnecessary hassle.
but it is personal choise.
but you have obviously got it out now.
Bye for Now!
i didn't think the factory pulley had threaded blind holes, i thought they were smooth holes. but i could very easily be wrong.
i have always used a large 2 or 3 leg puller.
don't loose the woodruff key that is in the crank, they can fall out, also they can be a bit of pain to line back up when the pulley goes back on. i never found a satisfactory way of aligning this key in the crank so the pulley slid back on smoothly every time. i nearly always had to do a bit of wiggling to get it to slide on nicely.
When changing the crank oil seal you do not need to hammer the seal into postion, you should be able to press it into the correct position with just you fingers. the seal does not need to be pushed all the way in as far as it can go, only as far as the front face of the seal is lined up with the face of the crank case it is being pushed into. just so they are flush.
if you push it in to far the seal is likely to leak, and it is a cambelt off again to replace it. i took the cambelt off twice before i got it right. It was an RTFM moment for me, i read the manual section and it said seal face flush with crack case, and it was fine after i did this. i had been tapping the seal in with a large socket and hammer, not the right thing to do.
any tips on positioning the woodruff key for an easy slide on of the pulley when it goes back on.
by the way i found the easiest way of undoing the crank pulley bolt was by using the starter motor and bracing the extended ratchet handle on the ground, you just have to make sure you get it the correct way round, but you can't really do that with the engine out of the car. it can be a pain to getundone without the correct tool to stop the crank spinning while you undo the pulley bolt. you can make the tool easy enough though.
Last edited by Davezj; 28-10-2014 at 01:26 AM.
The transfer case and gearbox are MUCH easier to get off once the engine is out of the car.
Yes, yes it is.
Both scott and I have had 6A13TT's in and out of cars more than any sane people should. and we both have it down to a fine art.
Dropping it out of the bottom I had a engine out by myself in under 3 hours, then proceeded to change the clutch, rear main seal, cams, valve springs, cambelt (idlers tensioners and associated seals) and had it back in the hole and the car running again within the same day. How long does it take you @Davezj to pull an engine out the top?
and no the factory harmonic dampener does not have threaded holes but its all of 2 minutes to thread the holes. thats a much easier way to remove the pulley.
With an auto box if you forget to undo the torque converter bolts that hold the the converter to the engine plate before you remove the engine and gearbox together it is a real pain trying to get to the when it is on the floor the correct point of access is from under neither the engine and this is now obstructed by the floor. Manual gear box no problem , but auto's are a pain. Which is why I have a personal preference to split the gear box before I remove the engine. Bearing in mine I am doing this at the road side outside my house with no garage.
the bit about threading the pulley holes is quite a critical bit of information for someone trying to remove it for the first time with the style of puller referenced in the link. But a good bit of info never the less.
still easier to take an auto out the bottom.
this is the same as saying if you going to remove a gearbox and leave the engine in place it is easier to do it by using a engine crane and a strap to lower it down than it is to dropping it down with a hydraulic lift.
it is personal preference, and dependent on what tools you have available and space to do the job in.
all i have done is give the guy another option, there is no right and wrong way to do the job i just happen to be more comfortable doing it one way and you are more comfortable doing it another.
if i had a 2 post ramp i would probably drop the engine gearbox and transfer case out the bottom of the car by supporting the engine and gear box on the top of a roller cabinet and lifting the car off it with the ramp but i don't have a 2 post ramp and a roller cabinet.
it is a case of 6 and 2x3 you get to the same result but down a different path.
Taking out an engine on the side of the road? That's dedication!
Tapping the holes sounds like the way to go regarding the pulley, thanks Adam.
Where is the best place to get a cambelt kit from around these parts?
There is a right way. The way mitsubishi designed it to be done. The way you're describing is the "I don't have the right tools for the job, so I'll do the best I can" way.
For a cambelt kit email bill@teamralliart.co.nz hes onto it. About 550shipped for a full genuine kit.
And yep scott is right. Therr is a right way and a wrong way. I use the same tools as you dave. A driveway engine crane, spanners and sockets. And If I had acess to a hoist I would still do it out the bottom.
i am obviously wrong on every level
please ignore everything i posted above, i know absolutely nothing about this subject and everything a posted above must be lies, lies, and more lies.
i am sorry for missleading everyone you can't do anything i posted above it is not possible.
that should put the record straight
Last edited by Davezj; 28-10-2014 at 11:10 PM.
Well the manual does say take off the transmission and take it out the top, so I wouldn't say it's necessarily wrong, but it did seem a bit easier going out the bottom given that we had the gear for it.
Someone mentioned a source for poly-bushed engine mounts, anyone got the supplier's details?
Someone mentioned a source for poly-bushed engine mounts, anyone got the supplier's details?
Energy suspension is the crowd I got mine off. cant remember what kit it is as i got mine donkeys years ago. some kit for a Eclipse.
Seems like there's quite a few Eclipse kits on ebay, any particular year that I should be looking for?
Also is it practical to just replace the inserts, using the same mounts?
you can use the same mounts but you have to burn the rubber out and hacksaw the steel ring out.
if you try and press the old steel rings out you are very highly likely to shatter the thin alloy.
sorry I don't know what eclipse kit, but it is on the forums somewhere. just spend time searching
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