Thanks, was pretty easy to findhttp://www.energysuspensionparts.com...PackageDeal001
Last edited by mattnz; 26-11-2014 at 04:14 AM.
Just to check, these are the ones I'm after correct? http://www.ebay.com/itm/13-1904-Prot...d4ae17&vxp=mtr
I don't recognise the weird insert one? The other three look the same as mine though. Maybe they changed the rear roll stop?
You mean the one with the six holes in it?Originally Posted by scott.mohekey
Na, the one in the bottom right of the first photo, and shown being inserted into a stock bush in the second photo.
Oh, maybe I want this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/13-1903-Prot...d5e71b&vxp=mtr
That looks more like it.
just thought i would let you know that the picture in the packagedeal001 is not the actual kit you get, the front roll stopper is a solid type that fits straight into the vr4 standard front roll stopper mount not the 2 part insert type form the eclipse. or the larger insert from the eclipse V6 kit which you will need to buy the eclipse V6 mount for.Thanks, was pretty easy to find
it was me that got energy suspension parts to put the kit togther for the VR4, i don't know why they used the kit picture from the 20l elipse kit but they did.
if you read the thread about polly engine mounts with will see.
here is the thread it is a very long one so you only need to read the last few pages to find why and how the kit came about.
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthr...+engine+mounts
Bye for Now!
Thanks Dave, looks like I'm going to have to get it off Ebay anyway. That outfit wants over $100 shipping
I read something about packing the six holes with metal rod, did you find this necessary?
Last edited by mattnz; 26-11-2014 at 10:11 PM.
Email them about shipping, they will fix that, I had the same ridiculous price for shipping, when I was looking into them, but got a more reasonable price
No, I never had an issue with the hole closing up.Thanks Dave, looks like I'm going to have to get it off Ebay anyway. That outfit wants over $100 shipping
I read something about packing the six holes with metal rod, did you find this necessary?
Mine collapsed after 2 years, IIRC Peter did report similar. Also DSMtuners forum had reported that instert as the weakest link. Maybe it's just manual transmission issue, but I did use alloy rods inserts making solid bush.
Ex: Galant VR4
Running 268 HP ATW and 443 Nm torque at 0.9 bar
Now: Lancer Evolution 8 FQ-300
Running 325 HP ATW and 510 Nm torque at 1.6 bar
Mine is an auto, and as I say I never had an issue and mine have been fitted for about 4 years I think.
I would like to point out I have the black version of the polly inserts, I wanted to maintain a more of a stock look under the bonnet .
I was not aware of any difference between the red and black types apart from colour, but maybe there is.
Yes, colour is manufacturer code of hardness of used compound.
I have found that some makers using black as the hardest (most Brits and some US), some red one (US), some yellow one (Polish one).
In general there are following most popular levels of polyurethane hardness: 60 shA (close to rubber), medium 75 shA and hard 90 shA (close to plastic). "ShA stands for "Scale Hardness A (durometer A)"
May even be something to do with the way the bolts a tightened up. It might sound odd thing to say but I
Noticed that if the front or back roll stopper was tightened up to its final tightness before the other roll stopper was fitted then it would put extra pressure on first roll stopper to be tightened, as the engine/hear box had to be jacked up to get the last bolt in place.
Basically I would leave all the bolt loos on all of the mounts until they wee all fitted, then tighten the engine and gear box mounts, then tighten the roll stoppers so they were in there final resting place before nipping up. So they had minimal constant pressure on them, before the engine applied load to them under acceleration and deceleration.
Or it could be an manual to auto box difference.
The main difference is when lifting off the accelerator the manual gear box has lots of engine baking and the auto box does not. So in an auto you don't get the extreme of motion like you do with a manual gear box.
With a manual gear box the engine rocks backwards under acceleration and the when engine backing occurs the engine is forced forwards.
You don't get the forcing forwards in an auto box.
Yeah I think I'll stuff the holes in that case. I got red, as that was the colour they had in stock, there was no stated difference in hardness though.
I also saw some talk of toxic liquid potentially being inside the rubber mounts, did anyone find this was the case?
There's some sort of liquid in the rubber mounts. I have no idea on what it is or it's toxicity. It does seem to burn well though, lol.
haha yep. burns good.
unsure about its toxicity as said Scott, so don't go huffing the fumes
I've found that my rear mount has sagged slightly over four years - although this may have been due to not replacing the front with a poly mount until last year.
When I take my engine out I'll examine it and replace if needed.
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