Thread made, will update it with some photos of the mods to the dash
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthr...297#post799297
Thread made, will update it with some photos of the mods to the dash
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthr...297#post799297
4 wheel alignment on my lowered car:
Car is lowered 50mm front and rear.
Car is on coil overs with cusco anti roll bars front and rear, all polybush.
Adjustable upper ball joints on front upper a arms, and longer bolts and spacer plates on rear upper arms.
I changed the rear adjustable toe arms recently so needed to get the 4 wheel alignment done
image.jpgt
Updating Soon!! 1998 Legnum VR4, fully serviced every 4500 miles. Fully Amsoil'd. Falken 453's, EVO 8 FQ320 rear diff.
I got around to fitting the 02 sensor in the exhaust for the afr gauge including the narrow band emulation and got it working, also swapped blue silicone hoses back to red
Today i spend a day with my car, weather is great so i start with a wash, a proper one after winter. Carbon bonnet faded badly even if car live most of its life in garage and its not more than 5ish years old, Im not impressed, if I know b4 that is so short lived I would never spend that mone on it, anyway b4 I paint it black to mach the car I give another chance with polish.
Results are not bad so far, hope this will last for a bit
Before
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Half done
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looks no bad
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Then when I wash wax off it show up results of monkeys hand car washes, during winter I use them literally 3 times, here's the result.
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but after few passes with Merzena and coat of autoglym its not soo bad but far from how I wish for, may eventually time for wrap has come.
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after I did half of the car I come to back and remember that I love @pezza mod, so did it with colour coded rattle can
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and love 'refreshed' rear end now even more
His FL Legnum VR4 running 238.8 ATW HP and 500Nm @1.05 bar on LPG
Hers PFL Legnum VR4 COTY see here for full story
Looking for AMSoil? click here
living in north west?
would you like to meet with other VR4 fanatics?
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My recent and ex Mitsubishi's
Very, very nice!!!
Fitted HID converted lights started FIVE MONTHS AGO!!! this times flying now, anyway they are in, I chop off original connectors to make job looks neater, left them with enough wiring to put back just in case, question for you guys who did it, @Nick Mann @MarkSanne @swinks @mcosworth how to set them 'right' I mean I think they not facing 'straight' and are a bit to high, they still can be adjusted as normal bulb its just the question how to set this properly? visit MOT station and let them try?
Last edited by adaxo; 24-04-2015 at 10:32 PM.
I usually do a before and after comparison. That means drive the car in front of a wall or in my case the garage door. Put a marking on the ground where the front wheels are and use masking tape to trace the original light-line. Then swap the new lamps in and park the car on exactly the same spot and adjust the new lamps to the masking tape lines. Alternatively I can go to a befriended MOT station where they have those measurement-devices to help me correct the angle of the lenses. Finally I have always built in the electronic levelling motors that can also help in initially prevent blinding oncoming traffic although that is not available in VR4's.
Seconded to Mark. I have used brick wall in my parking area. First set up markings with stock lights, then swap for converted and adjust them accordingly to markings on the wall.
Ex: Galant VR4
Running 268 HP ATW and 443 Nm torque at 0.9 bar
Now: Lancer Evolution 8 FQ-300
Running 325 HP ATW and 510 Nm torque at 1.6 bar
I did kind of comparison but, as find out now, it was way to close as about 1 metre from car, on my closed garage door, and they in pretty much the same spot but when I drive along I can see road sings reflect light differently and I'm sure driver side is too high, didn't get any flashes from oncoming traffic so may its not that bad, will visit MOT guys and see what's what, thanks for advice.
there is a setup guide for headlight alignment for MOT testing.
i think it needs to be done from about 25feet from the wall and a bit of measuring to find the centre line of the car, transpose that to the wall and with some other measurements, you can put a set of tape lines on the wall to align the lights to.
i will see if i can find it. i am sure i posted up on here before.
Bye for Now!
here is a guide but it is left hand drive so swap the kick up point from left to right.
i think the magic number is measure the height of the light from ground to centre line of the light then transfer this height to the wall and put a horizontal line on the wall 4" down from that mark which ensures the lights are not going to shine up into on coming trafic.
https://www.coolbulbs.com/HID-VISUAL...-PROCEDURE.pdf
Yesterday I bought my old VR4 engine back from the guy who used it for under 2 years in his VR2 that he bought from me after my Legnum VR4 had crashed.
Now it's back in my garage and I will try to source some nice TD04HL-13T turbo's and start my own little conversion. Should I finish (or maybe better: when I finish) that setup, I will have it mounted into my VR2 so I will have even more trouble getting off the start. Or maybe it might actually help that the turbo lag will increase for pulling away from start
Anyway, it'll be quite a challenge but I'm looking very much forward to it!
legnum-vr4-engine-back.JPG
Nice one Mark!
That's sound awesome, knowing your attention to details this TD04 conversion will be one to follow, pls make sure you stick there as many pictures/details as you could so may we (with @Davezj ) eventually move our arses and moke them up too.
BTW which way you thinking of doing it? welding flanges to original manifold or making new manifolds?
I'll do that guys. You know me, I like it neat and as factory-looking as possible and I don't want to loose stuff like aircon. Also I'm not too fussed about the last bit of potential gain by replacing every single bit of piping making these kind of conversions even more difficult. Probably I'll limit myself to the bare minimum to make it fit and working within the constraints that are. I have not yet determined which approach I will take in regards to welding a new manifold or modifying the stock one. I will first source a TD04HL-13T which seems to be a perfect compromise being compact, fast spooling, enough additional power and second hand easy to get for good prices. After having one in my hands I can start comparing IRL which modification-route I'll take. I'll start with the easier front turbo
vr4-legnum-engine-front-turbo.JPG
Great,
same here, and just to add, rear turbo is much much easier to place, there's no stupid oil goose neck and rad fans to worry about, lots more room for a dump pipe than at the front, see yourself while you start doing it, good luck.I like it neat and as factory-looking as possible and I don't want to loose stuff like aircon. Also I'm not too fussed about the last bit of potential gain by replacing every single bit of piping making these kind of conversions even more difficult. Probably I'll limit myself to the bare minimum to make it fit and working within the constraints that are.
Repainted the bumper from my VR2 as it had many war-scars on it, after finishing spray painting another Galant euro FL bumper in the same color earlier.
The VR2 bumper has many mild customizations, see if you can spot all 4 of them
vr2-custom-front-bumper-galant05.jpg
vr2-custom-front-bumper-galant04.jpg
vr2-custom-front-bumper-galant03.jpg
Tow cover blended in, number plate spacing wider.
1997 Mitsubishi RVR HSGR : 2.0 4G63T, 4 seats and the seating position from a truck
2009 Ford Mondeo : 2.2TDCi, 4 wheels, some plastics, some metal and some seats
Former owner of The Mongrel (RIP 2011) and The Rednum (RIP 2014)