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Last edited by Davezj; 28-04-2015 at 11:52 PM.
Bye for Now!
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Last edited by Davezj; 28-04-2015 at 11:53 PM.
Just going to say right now I didn't read the whole thread because the first page hurt my feelings enough.
But yes the oil feeds to the head via the "screw in restrictor"
Yes they are symmetrical
No its not worth removing the balls bearings from the gallerys unless the heads are from a severely contaminated motor such as a run bearing.
And enlarging the oil restrictor is a **** idea because if the lifters see full oil flow they will overpump and hold valves open
Also, you should consider the lifters as a serviceable item. They're not meant to last forever.
Last edited by scott.mohekey; 27-04-2015 at 08:26 AM. Reason: Correct spelling.
Exactly. I know more people than i can count with mitsubishis with no lifter tick because they put in good lifters and service them regularly with oil suitable to their climate conditions.
Clearly a quiet motor in NZ will run a diffrent oil to a quiet motor in the UK because of the different climates.
If anything the oil restrictor should be made smaller not larger. This is common practice on nissan RB engines as the stock restrictor is too big and floods the head with oil causing drainback issues
Pardon my spelling and terrible post layout as its from my phone.
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Last edited by Davezj; 28-04-2015 at 11:53 PM.
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Last edited by Davezj; 28-04-2015 at 11:54 PM.
NO, the lifters are ticking because they need to be cleaned/replaced.
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Last edited by Davezj; 28-04-2015 at 11:55 PM.
I'm sorry to say that Dave but I'm with others in that matter, let me try to explain.
IMO you try to fix broken thing by risking of broke other things, or over think how to sort this out, simplest answer is replace lifters, why?
-they are serviceable
-easy obtainable
-not extremely dear
-wear, usually, by poor maintenance, don't necessary fault of mitsi, seen myself (and you too) engines with 50k running like a tractor and engines 100k plus running sweet on original lifters still
The next thing, if I understand right you thinking of 'adjusting' hole supplying oil to the heads, food for thought
- do you really think that engineers who design this are wrong? guys who build millions of various engines like 4g63 ect? they make something without deep thought?
- what if you increase top end oil pressure BUT at the same time decrease oil pressure at the bottom? want to swap lifter tick for bottom end knock?
I like your thinking in various subjects, and I like cheap or, even better, free fixes too but IMO in this particular case there's only one way to follow, well proven path done by many members all over the world, REPLACE THEM and forget about the issue.
edit, forget to say that if i remember right you have an issue with ONE may two lifters?
edit 2 lets start mocking this bloody td04s to our engines and not waste more time to investigate heads
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Last edited by Davezj; 28-04-2015 at 11:55 PM.
right, I can bet, new lifters will not tick within 5k miles installed and maintained properly. I assume this as mine original (100k+ miles) become noisy at start up (for about 5-10 second) after 6-8k miles from last oil change, so I really doubt new ones will tick
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Last edited by Davezj; 28-04-2015 at 11:56 PM.
I fitted some replacement lifters to my last vr4, in approx 2007. In 2011 I broke the car after around 30,000 miles and three oil changes on Amsoil 5w40. I sometimes had a few seconds of tick on cold start up.
I would suggest that you have a little bit of crud in the oil feed to the offending lash adjuster if new ones are ticking after only 5k miles.
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Last edited by Davezj; 28-04-2015 at 11:56 PM.
Do you do a flush when you change oil? As Nick says, it sounds like you have some crud in the oil making the lifters not last long enough. Didn't you recently post up pics of gunk in your sump?
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Last edited by Davezj; 28-04-2015 at 11:56 PM.
Sooo.. the engine that had the noisy lifters is not the one that you've kept immaculate?
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Last edited by Davezj; 28-04-2015 at 11:57 PM.
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