Fuel in Engine Bay

[Erni902]

Hi guys not as drastic as it sounds but Im hopefully going to attempt the FPR install tomorrow weather permitting. I just have 1 or 2 concerns:

1) When I remove the stock FPR I am assuming that a small amount of fuel is going to drip out and down onto the engine. Question is how long is safe to leave it before starting the engine?

a) How long to wait before setting correct pressure

b) I have a 140 mile tomorrow evening and dont fancy the temperature getting too hot and something igniting the fuel residue whilst driving.

2) How long after turning engine off after 80 mile spirited drive should I wait before removing the stock FPR risking fuel dripping onto hot engine? Reason I ask is that I am going to do the prep work tonight whilst its light i.e mounting the new FPR and attaching associated hosing ready to swap over in the morning. If its safe to do so I could fit the fuel rail adapter etc tonight and just set it up in the morning.

I appreciate the questions may seem 'bone' to others but this is the fuel system we are talking about so just want to be 100% sure that I will be safe to drive afterwards.

EDIT: Obviously I will try my hardest to not get any fuel spillage by using rags etc but will probably not get it all.

[adaxo]

B4 you undo anything on petrol side open fuel cap, this will relase pressure from thank, if system is working properly you should hear ssuckling noise every time you open cap to fill up, that pressure is big enough to push fuel for long time.
I woul suggest to leave engine for at least one hour after driving, remember that liquid is not so dangerous as vapour make sure you doing this in well ventilated place or preferably outside.

[swinks]

Yep, like Adam said. Leave vehicle to cool down for 1 hour or so. Then unplug fuel pump (under back seat) and try to start engine. Do few cranks, this will release pressure from fuel lines.
Once undoing fuel fittings you will have some dribble of fuel anyway. Nothing serious to worry about. It will vapour anyway before you finish work.
Setting right pressure - first set roughly pressure at 3 bar with no vacuum line on cold engine. Let engine warm up whilst do observe pressure gauge, if necessary adjust regulator. Once you have warmed up engine, then setup for 3 to 3.1 bar without vacuum. Attach and secure vacuum, you should have nice pressure drop. Make sure no fuel leaks.
Ready to go.

[Erni902]

@adaxo cheers mate thats a good help, system should be working fine as I hear the pressure release everytime i fill up etc. I didnt even think of removing that first tbh.

Yup got the car setup on the curb in the village air so plenty of ventilation

[Erni902]

@swinks cheers for the advice mate I must admit I thought the risks were far higher than they are so all good. Just having some food then head out to prep. It seems the hardest part of this is going to be where to mount the blooming thing! Thinking of mounting it to the ubderside of the strut brace as there will be room for the sender for my digital gauge. Got small gel gauge for setting up then digital one in car for monitoring pressure.

[Erni902]

Excellent, the stock fuel hose ID is smaller than the fpr's barb. About 1-1.5mm difference. Off to hunt for a brass reducer if they even exist!! Having to get a lift as car is in bits the joys of bank holiday mechanics/motoring

[Erni902]

Ok it would seem all is good. Had a bit of a leak with the gel gauge mounted on the fpr so set roughly 3bar then swapped the gauge for the sender f9r the digital gauge. This is reading 43 psi very stable the odd flick to 41 etc but overall hardly any fluctuation at all and still no leaks after she has been idling for 5 mins or so.

Attached vacuum hose but no pressure change??? Thats not right is it?

[Erni902]

False alarm after investigating it turns out the vacuum pipe from the fpr solenoid had come off the manifold and was perished. Replaced with decent hose and pressure drops to around the 30 mark.

What should my pressures be whilst driving? What low/high numbers should I be looking out for to alert me of any issues?

[Nick Mann]

It should be changing with the boost gauge. Higher pressure in the air needs higher pressure in the fuel, lower needs lower.

[Erni902]

Yep cheers Nick, just driven back to work and monitored the pressure and I see now that the gauge will show manifold pressure + boost pressure (incl the rise from vacuum)

Checked everything out when I pulled up and still no leaks so all is good. Apart from a potential boost leak somewhere (probably the hard pipe or TB elbow) but the only reason I noticed was because the BOV was considerably quieter than normal.

[Davezj]

I would ask the question here as it seems a nice place to do it.

this is just out of interest mainly,
is there any restriction on how the FPR is mount, i mean orientation.
does it matter if you fitted the FPR with the vac line at the bottom and fuel line a the top, or vac line at the side and fuel line at the side.

just for clarity i would normally say the vac line was on he top of the FPR fuel return from the fuel rail is on the side of FPR and fuel return to the tank is on the bottom of the FPR.

i bought my FPR second hand so no instruction, i have it mounted in a couple of places in the engine bay one with the vac line at the top and one with the vac line on the side, i can't say i noticed any difference but is there a right and wrong way.

[Colin Wiltshire]

Just to add to this, Does it matter which way you plumb the fuel lines into the fpr?

[Nick Mann]

I have no idea about fpr orientation but I would guess that it makes little or no difference.
Flow direction does make a difference though, usually the return is opposite the vacuum pipe.

[Pugme]

Any chance you could post a picture please Rikki :-)

Your pm was spot on man! And I've begun ordering parts now, and will probably also go for the mtx-l as well lol

Would be good to see your install of the fpr just to see if what's in my head is what's in your bay haha

[Erni902]

Any chance you could post a picture please Rikki :-)

Your pm was spot on man! And I've begun ordering parts now, and will probably also go for the mtx-l as well lol

Would be good to see your install of the fpr just to see if what's in my head is what's in your bay haha

Haha completely forgot to take pics lol.

Will pop out now and grab some then add them below in the next post.

[Erni902]

@Pugme

Here you go Darren I have taken some pics and annotated them aswell. Hope they make sense any questions give me a bell.

Picture 1 - This shows the fuel rail adapter that I gave you the link to. Connects in place of the stock FPR onto the fuel rail. The hose connected to this goes up to the new Adjustable FPR and is a new length of hose. The length will depend on where you locate the FPR Unit:

20150609_204816.jpg

Picture 2 - This shows the Vacuum hose connected to the manifold which then connects to the stock FPR Solenoid:

20150609_204845.jpg

Picture 3 - This shows the Vacuum hose from the new Adjustable FPR that connects to the stock FPR Solenoid. This also shows where the FPR Solenoid is located. Underneath the red tipped hose and mounted above the thermostat housing next to the boost solenoid:

20150609_204828(0).jpg

Picture 4 - This shows the new Adjustable FPR mounted to the strut brace and the yellow vacuum hose that leaves the FPR and heads down to the FPR Solenoid as showed in picture 3:

20150609_204851.jpg

Picture 5 - This shows the fuel sender for my digital gauge attached directly to the Adjustable FPR. (attached directly IOT reduce the amount of joins and potential leakage points). This is where you would plumb in the gel gauge if you bought it for setting up purposes. This picture also shows the Fuel Return hose. This is the hose that USED to attach to the original FPR you may need a joiner of sorts and some extra fuel hose depending on where you mount your FPR Unit:

20150609_204909.jpg

Picture 6 - This shows the FPR mounted to the underside of the strut brace and all the relevant fixings. It shows the yellow vacuum hose which goes down to the solenoid, the fuel return hose which was originally connected to the stock FPR and the new length of hose that runs from the fuel rail adapter to the new adjustable FPR. Ignore all the red hoses in this picture they're the vacuum hoses for the TCL system and nothing to do with the FPR:

20150609_204917.jpg

Hope these pics and the explanation helps you out and others that are embarking on this install.

[Colin Wiltshire]

I have no idea about fpr orientation but I would guess that it makes little or no difference.
Flow direction does make a difference though, usually the return is opposite the vacuum pipe.

I tried swapping the pipes over, and the gauge wouldn't read anything, swapped them back and the pressure was back.