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Thread: New hub, bolts sheered?? WTF

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    New hub, bolts sheered?? WTF

    Well after a few days of pushing, pulling and prying at various arms and rods etc and hours of research on here if finally gotten to the bottom (I hope) of my knocking noise from the rear when turning left. As the title says on getting the rear end in the air I noticed when rocking the rear o/s wheel there was considerable play to the point where the rotor was coming away from the hub, and when i removed the wheel the bolts all have at least a bit of play. The worst one moves completely free and pushes in and out about 12mm. The best one does not spin but still moves back and forth maybe 1mm at most.
    The wheel bearing hubs were both aftermarket parts from camskill , so I'm going to be contacting them Monday morning as surely this is a faulty part.
    Has anyone else experienced anything like this?

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    New hub, bolts sheered?? WTF

    Have they actually sheered or are they just loose. If they have not sheered then the follow applies. From what you have described it does not sound like they have sheered but the bolts have come loose in the hub.

    The the rotor moves when you rock the wheel you have not done the wheels nuts up correctly.

    The wheel studs just push in from the back of the hub and only just lock into position. The are held tight by the wheel nut.

    I have had a few wheel studs snap on me. And you tap them with a hammer and them pop out of the back of the hub and you slot another one in do the wheel nut up which pulls the stud into the back of the hub.
    If when you fitted the hubs if you did not do the wheels nuts up really tight to fix/pull the stud fully into the back of the hub then the studs could come loose.
    Have tried doing the wheel nut up tight.
    Last edited by Davezj; 23-08-2015 at 11:45 AM.

    Bye for Now!

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    The wheel nuts were all tight however now 2 of them won't tighten up as they are just spinning. If it is as you say what would have to be removed to correct it, as they were done at a garage while they were doing my drive shafts. I wouldn't be confident enough on my own to start playing around at the back of the wheel.

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    The stud has very shallow spline that are supposed to grip the hole in the hub.
    It sounds like the sines have been warn off the stud so it will not grip any more.

    As you say that should not happen, if you have just had the hub replaced.

    The new studs can be got for a couple of quid each .

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    Cheers Dave. That does sound the most likely scenario. Il get a new set off bolts and follow the guide on here for removing the caliper and discs and from the pics it looks pretty plain sailing from there. I'm assuming it is the same procedure removing Brembo's as it is stock calipers?

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    If you have just had the hubs changed as you say then take it back to the garage. Or was it a while ago, did you supply the hubs.
    The brembo calipers are easier to take off the the standard calipers. You don't even need to take the pads out. Just the retaining bolt for the caliper and it should slide off. You can give the caliper a wiggle across the disk to push the pistons back slightly to make it easier to slide off .
    Then take the disk off, this help the bolt slide through the hub, more easily.
    You also have to remember the bolt will only come out at one point in the revilution of the hub you will have to check the clearance on the back of the hub.
    Then it is just a case of tapping stud backwards out of the hub.
    When fit the new stud push it in from the back of the hub, then put a wheel nut on the stud do it up and you should be able to do the nut up far enough to pull the stud tight into the back of the hub.
    This is assuming the threads are greased up and free moving no rust/dirt in the wheel nut .
    You may need to put the disk back on to pull the stud in I can't remember how far the stud goes into the nut.
    But you get the idea.

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    I do thanks again Dave sounds very doable. I'll get on it next time I get chance. Don't think IL go back to the garage as one of the bearings had a bit of a rough rude in the boot of my car for a few days so this is probably what's caused the failure. The garage definitely tightened the wheels up correctly as I had them back off a week later to do the brakes.

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